Hiram

Im in Miami, Florida @ sea level usaully riding in 70 -80 degree weather, stock carbs nothing done to them, running a toomey 2into1 airfilter

I'm sure of the jet sizes 460/35, I've been tenkering with the jetting to get it right and I put them in myself. Those sizes seem way too big for me too but that's what the bike runs best with. Now you have me thinking....How do I do a airleak test? and will the test point out the leak source? Note* I ported the transfers all the way up to the windows and reshaping the tunnel for more flow and raised the port window 1mm. I did this myself using water flow to show what areas could use improvement by looking at the water flow , lots of material was removed. A local mechanic siad to me that my jets are way too big also and it was because I took to much off when porting and it caused a lost of air velocity,but to me that doesn't seem right, to me less air=less fuel, besides my bike was running faster than his equally built bikes so I played him no mind........ But locogato your explaination makes alot of sense to me, I want to run a airleak test right away, what will I need?

What exactly is a duneable overide? What difference those it make? I have seen 1-5 or 2-5 what does that mean? will I only be shifting 5 gears and not 6?

My cases are split now due to melting the push rod to the ball and shifter lever....My question is this are there any upgrades I should do now that they are apart??? My current setup is major porting including windows and case matching, stock reed cages are also ported, stock cylinders with .40 over pistons, 180psi on the head running 100 octane, stock 26mm carbs with 460 mains and 35 pilots, no air box, CPI pipes, 16/40 gearing I ride high speed trails and ocasional asphault racing, when racing I find myself looking for a 7th gear. Is there any 6th gear modification I could take advantage to give me more top end without sacraficing my lower gears? Should I or not buy bigger carbs??? and if so, which size and what jetting would get me in the ball park to my current fuel needs? Even though currently the bike runs like a champs and screams with no hessitation at all throughout the throttle. ANY AND ALL COMMENTS ARE WELCOME....THANKS!

I run 16/41 which is less gear than that, I have porting with CPI's and shaved head and it runs great....Banshee's like to rev high, too much gear could slow you down...seems abit much for T6 without porting, 15 on the front with the 40 rear should be real nice....

I bought a jumbo size adjustable wrench.....the sucker weighs about 30lbs and is like 36" long works like a charm, got it from Norhtern Tools for $40.....BFW(big fuck'n wrench)

Nice wrapping...looks like it shouldn't be a problem and doesn't look bad either, nice job.

I'm from South Florida and ride with a group of about 10 riders check out our next group ride if your close by. Check out this web site www.atvmiaxtreme.com

And Vito's pistons can raise compression by 10 psi so this may account for the 170psi, I had my head shaved .030" also andrun Vito's power pistons and have 165 psi.

Let me know if you want to see more

Another

I would go with mild porting, but Im not talking about just cleaning it up, I mean a real port job that opens up port windows just not radical. I do my own porting check out some pics and let me know if you got any questions, I'd be happy to help you.

The main difference is the boiling temp. of each. The DOT3 has a lower boiling Temp. then the DOT4 so this could lead to constanly having to bleed your brakes to get rid of air caused from hard braking that can cause the DOT3 to boil. Just bleed it all out and use DOT4, trust me it's a pain to have to bleed them if you brake hard on a ride

I did mines, I only cut them wider to match my porting, it's been 6 months and it screaming!!!

Did it myself, but did end up spending over $400 in tools, but it was split between me and a few friends in exchange for me porting there's too.