locogato11283

jet kits arent worth a shit. just buy what you need and skip the BS.

well the override is just cut for 1-5.. youll have to clutch to get into 6th. i would call them and see whats up.

yea i think i would try to run a dremel along the crack and then jb weld it. i think thatll bond better than just trying to use some sealant.

wait a minute.. bearings to your tranny and clutch?? what exactly seems to be the problem?

so the crack is in the lower case?

good idea. sounds like this head is being trouble. you dont need anymore trouble with a banshee motor. you get an HQ discount with NOSS. pm him here at "dlnoss"..

buy used pipes, its a lot better deal.. some other stuff to get that will help you.. vf3 reeds. aftermarket intake. better tires.

being a 2001 its prolly time to freshen it up. ask your builder, he should be able to tell you.

i would run stock as more people are familiar with them and can help you more. as for jet kits, they are for misinformed retards. waste of money for sure.

you can do what you want, but i would run 33's.

all situations are different. im not sure i would trust someone to do this.

thats why i dont use torque wrenches. i dont trust them. i trust my arm and wrist though when wrenchin shit down. one time i torqued a head to the stated 22 pounds and it leaked like crazy. never again will i use one of those torquing devices.

make sure you air filter is clean. id put the clip in the middle of the needle. what are your air screws turned out to? should be 1.5 to 2 turns out.

ive always run +4 or +7. i think youll be fine with either.

ok im gonna try to break this down for you.. 1)boring is NOT necessary unless you need to rebuild. it wont give you anymore power by boring to the next size, so scrap that idea. 2)lose the boost bottle. it does nothing for you and gets in the way. go back to stock crossover tube. 3)i would run 33mm pwk carbs. they are good size for stock stroke and some porting all the way up to 4mm cub motors. ive seen 4mm motors run hard with them. they are a good investment and youll save money in the long run if you ever decide to build a big motor. 4)timing plates are great add-ons. increase timing will increase performance, but you need to bump up the octane in your fuel. 5)i would skip the shaved head and go for a NOSS head. better cooling and you can change your compression ratio. doing this in combination with your timing plate will make it worthwhile to run race fuel. you can probably get away with running a 50/50 mix of pump gas/110 or 112 octane. 6)which toomeys you have? T5 or T6? 7)the rest of your mods sound pretty good. i would check more into your porting and decide what youre gonna do there before you decide on pipes and other intakes. hope this helps. hollar with any questions..

you should be able to put water in there and it not leak. switching weights isnt gonna be a fix. i dont even use a copper washer. i put a little yamabond or gasket maker on the threads of my drain bolt and ive never had an issue. ive been running 10w-40 motor oil in my tranny forever.

looks like a bog bore dome to me. looks like the o ring goes on the outside of the dome.

just snug them up. they wont go anywhere..

yea drop your pilot down to a 48 or maybe even a 45. then it will idle all day long. your main sounds about right.

metallic silver or gloss black. does $185 include sand blasting? if so thats a steal.

stock, laker customs, or fullbores is the only way to go on a banshee. dont fuck with ugly ass craptor plastic on a banshee.

same place i mentioned in your other post man!! :thumbsup:

call Jeff @ FAST.. 1-785-354-5325 or PM him here on HQ at "FASTOYS". he will have everything you need and then some. super cool guy and will take care of you.

haha he looks like he would rather lick someone than bite them..

yes pilots should be clearly marked. if they arent id get some that are..