locogato11283

a grand?? fuck the tires.. buy a cub!!

stock or roundhouse carrier?

tighten the nuts down that hold the hubs on if theyre moving. you should be able to turn tighten them some and reinsert the cotter pin.

well you need to check the condition of your clutch parts.. if your clutch is toast and the engine is fairly old, theres a good chance you need a new basket, inner hub and pressure plate.. call Jeff @ FAST. hes got a magnum billet basket that works great in addition to stock inner hub and pressure plate. he also sells the best clutch kit ive ever used..

make sure they both have the same psi.. but unlike car tires your rear tires havent been balanced. of course theyll wobble and even more so at higher speeds. this is not uncommon. a slightly bent axle will only increase this issue.

does look pretty cool. not sure id drop 310 for one, but i guess it would be cool if you painted your flywheel or had it chromed or something..

ah shit, youre prolly right. i was thinking in terms of the atv world. i dont think matt is prolly making them for the RZ's. does kenny do mainly the RZ shit?

a little scrap metal and a welder and you could prolly make something pretty easily.

never seen that before.. only thing is that the stator side isnt that cool to look at..

fuckin awesome man. take pictures and good luck!

ive run this bike before at LS when curt had it. ran hard.

bump for a steal!!

so you ground down the mounts for the coil and it still didnt fix it?

dude, listen to yourself. you put up a thread asking for peoples opinions on what to do in this situation. almost everyone here has said to walk away, yet you still pursue it. why did you even start this thread?

wha the fuck.. thats my fuckin van.. stupid craiglist.

use a wire wheel or brush on the top of the piston. there has to be something more there than that.

youre gonna need to run higher octane fuel anyway it sounds. with an increase in compression or timing its a good idea to run a fuel with higher octane. i wouldnt take any chances with either setup and 93 octane.. if you wanna run 93 octane you better stick to 20cc domes and stock timing. in which case you wont have the power you would have with 18cc domes and +4 timing.

start with 162 mains and 48 pilot, needle in the middle. i would work down from there. youll probably end up at 160 main and 45 pilot im guessing. in my experiences most of the PWK carbs all jet about the same way. as far as the cub, my 4mm and 10mm cub motors ran with 39mm PWK have always been in that same range. if you want a second opinion, why dont you just call Jeff and ask him?

why didnt you just pull the plugs to check your jetting?

sounds like it could potentially be a headache. i would say fuck it, if it were me.

shearer really makes the best pipes for the cub. you could probably pick up a set and have them cut and fitted to fit your setup.. and i would really go with the 39mm pwk. youre going to be running a lot of fuel through that thing and the bigger carbs will help. you may also need to look into bigger bowls so you dont run the carbs dry.

i would say no smaller than 18cc. thats gonna be pushing your compression pretty high anyway. i would contact Dave and see what he thinks. also, when you get that high in compression you need to be running race fuel.

yep, you guys were right. i knew it would have to be an old school HQer to get that one. no they dont. you have to install them yourself. its really easy to do.

i have seen some of tim's work on here.. he does some nice stuff it looks like. i would give him a shot.

depends on whether im in the city or on the highway.