locogato11283

thats fuckin ridiculous.. i dont really see the sense in buying that shit. i dont think its gonna make your bike run any better than sunoco. ive been getting mine at a pick up and race haven here in st. joe. last time i bought it, which was last summer, it was 5.50 a gallon for 110 sunoco. i see no real reason to buy that expensive ass fuel. ive been using this shit for years and ive never had a problem. bike runs awesome.

i will never own another banshee without a duneable override. i can upshift and downshift mine with no clutch. ive never had an issue with mine. they seem to be pretty reliable these days. i would go for it. you wont regret it thats for sure. they are for all types of motors, but really shine in drag motors. def go ahead and do the lockup and youll have a complete package.

duneable override and lockout for sure. i would stay away from anything alba makes. call FAST, he will set you up..

how much play are we talking?

you need to get rid of the single carb setup and go back to dual carbs. thats a must. i would also recommend a NOSS head. give FAST a call and jeff will be happy to talk to you about what you need.

ebc and barnett clutches are junk. ive toasted both before. you should not have put the rubber o rings back in. i run 10w40 in my tranny.

dual carbs always.

id go with the 4mm stock cylinders. call FAST. Jeff will get you set up.

def go for the porting and a NOSS head.

the new yfz450 is the only one i would buy.

so basically his tester is junk? sounds like too many variables to me to be considered reliable.

on snow? hes gonna fuck you up. stud your tires and walk away from him.

youd be better off buying used. new ones are too expensive.

dumbass

no difference. i actually just run sunoco 110 in my bike. i think its about 5.50 a gallon. how much is that shit youre buying?

were you getting a good seal? is there an o-ring on the tester? was it down far enough to seal? sounds like you might need a better tester. my comp tester fits really well into the dome and it seals with an o-ring.

sounds like the splines on your hubs are worn some. did you notice it with your old axle?

gasket only between intake/reeds and then between reeds/cylinder.

whats your elevation? 120 psi seems a little low to me, and i can tell you if my bike hit 120 psi, it would be getting it rebuilt ASAP. if youre gonna take the time to tear it down, why not just rebuild it anyway? i see no point in tearing it down just to take some measurements. if youre doubting it, just rebuild it.

i think thats it.. ive noticed that some of my sprockets are just a little wider than others. not sure why or if this is a common occurrence. but it looks to be like the clip barely catches the splines. i mostly run sprocket specialist ones because i run 15, 16 and 17 tooth.. sometimes my clip doesnt wanna sit on the splines very well. i can see how if you dont use an impact that the clip never really sits on the splines. MJ, im betting this is your problem.

you got a lockout right? i dont think the clutch matters all that much when you have a lockout. i would run a tusk in mine since i have a lockout.. but, for people who dont have lockouts i would recommend the FAST clutch. i ran it for a long time before i ever had a lockout with no issues.. mo, i would stay away from the ebc and barnett clutch stuff. buy a new factory pressure plate and inner hub. you can buy a billet basket for about 150 bucks. i personally would call FAST and get everything you need. Jeff will have it all for great prices. signed, FAST nutswinger.

talkin to me?

i dont have the exact length. i would make them as long as you possibly can. you should be able to pull the measurement on the threads still showing and add that to the length of the tie rod.. you can use either aluminum or steel. ive used both on different bikes ive had. i forgot to mention. i use TUSK tie rod ends over stock ones. ive had far better luck with them.. http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...7#vehicleSelect thats not true. ive broken tie rod ends riding through rough fields. it doesnt take much when theres a hole or a rock. if your tire gets jerked hard enough and youre holding on tight enough, they will snap.

wheres da pic??

do you plan on upgrading to a 4mm at some point? if so, i would go with 33mm pwk. no real sense in going from 26mm stock carbs to 28mm.. waste of money really. i would go for the bigger carbs if youre planning on doing a stroker on down the road.. otherwise, the 30's would be your best bet.