Nightrider

I love you too!

I highly advise you spend the money on a new one Wallrat.Your going to end up getting one thats more worn than you like around the seal area and leaks will occur.Believe it or not,rubber will wear on aluminum,I have a used one that has the tiniest line around it and I just pitched it,I don't know about you but I don't have the time to rework something that should have been done right in the first place.Reliability being the major factor.If its something that might worry me,then I do it right. Technically the seals should also be replaced,but on all of my shees,I changed the impeller with a rebuild or when the quad was new

My 01' still has the original basket and is well over 150 hrs on it.I change the oil every 3-4 rides or after a long weekend.Its still like brand new My 87's came with aftermarket baskets.On one of them the screws were not even bottomed out all the way.Turned out the red loctite set in before the screws were torqued down.Luckily the previous owner blew the top-end right away after the rebuild.Saved the basket and gear from severe damage. I assume that you drill out the rivets,haven't had to do it yet with my 01',so I couldn't tll ya,but any aftermrket basket is a good choice,I have a GYTR and a PE and they both look like quality baskets.They used taper /countersink allen bolts.The baskets already have countersunk holes and all of the hardware is supplied with the basket.

This thread has turned into one big cat fight between Brooke and Sikgrl.I give sikgrl some credit for trying not to get involved in this pissing contest,but then again I have respect for Brooke for standing her ground.Obviously theres enough room for more than one bitch at the HQ.

I'd take th clutch apart and check the screws on the back side of the basket,if those are tight,Check the clutch shaft bearing for excesive up and down/side to side movement. If your getting a graphite or silver color in your transmisson oil and your hearing a growlining from the trans,I'd say your clutch bearing is bad.I had one fail on my 87' and a new bearing cured the growling noise and silvery colored oil.The excess slop in the bearing was causing too much backlash between the gears and actually grinding down the teeth ever so slightly,producing the metal colored oil.As long as you catch it early enough,minimal wear will occur.Mine sounded like a bear was hiding behind the clutch cover,but the teeth only showed the slightest wear. The clutch basket also has a bronze bearing in it,but I haven't seen or read too much about them going bad.This would also cause excessive noise and grinding also. An easy way to check with the cover on is to start up the shee and let it warm up.Now listen to the clutch side of the engine and pull the clutch in.If you notice it gets very quiet all the sudden,you probably have a clutch shaft beaing or clutch basket bearing going bad,or even a loose basket gear.Hope this helps

I live in Lorain,My friends and I mostly ride the public trail systems. Wayne National forest in Nelsonville OH one of our favorites.(70 miles of trails) Wayne National forest in Ironton Oh(30+ miles of trails) Perry State forest down by Zanesville OH(about 1200 acres 16 miles of trail) Maumee State forest up by Toledo OH.(about 250 acres 5 miles of trail) Bayview Orv up near Sharon PA.(about 300 acres) Elson Street atv park in Waynesburg OH.(about 450 acres) Wellsville riding area by East liverpool OH.(about 2500 acres)Unbelieveble hill climbs Alleghaney National forest in Marienville PA.(about 30+ miles of trails) Hatfield Mccoy in WV(450 miles of trails) We ride every weekend from end of April to end of October.

I disagree,if you can use a drill to tap a hole and still do a professional job,then your better than someone who can't.I've been in the machining industry for many years and it definitely takes skill to use a drill to tap holes.its very easy to break taps if you don't know what your doing.I usually use a drill press or milling machine,but I'm pretty good with a 1/2 Ingersoll or Rockwell pneunatic drill.The 1/2 drill may be bigger,but there max rpms are very slow(200-250rpm). If its something that requires precision or smaller than 1/4",I use a hand tap.Also I recommend a quality tapping fluid like Tapmagic,I still have 2 gallons of the "old" formula,best tapping fluid I ever used.

In the auto/tranportation section.It wasn't easy to find,I just came across it looking through some high performance motorcycle books.

Go with a Fatty or PTR pipe.Midrange pipes are by far the best all round pipes,the 2into1 really kill your over rev and topend.

I have a set of jugs ported by Gorr that are waiting for installation.After reading some of his books,which I HIGHLY reccommend,you can tell that Eric has been doing this kind of stuff for ages.His knowledge runs deep in all makes and models of 2 strokes Go out and buy yourself one of his books if you want to know more.I came across one at Borders and had to buy it,just flipping through it I came across a bunch of great info.I agree that for the money,its the best portwork available.

I agree,but you just have to be really careful in who your dealing with,most of the guys at HQ are good people and its important that you post your good and bad experiences with traders on Hq. So far I've dealt with Lefty,Sickboy,Minkia and Mod Banshee.I would not hesitate doing busines with them again.They were all excellent traders. If you really feel that you had a good experience,don't hesitate to share it with everyone. But if someone really screwed you or gave you the run around let other people know,so they can make the call for themselves.If they still decide to deal with them,then its there own fault.

I would say unless your over 170-180 psi I would stick to the B8ES. If you know your bike is jetted fairly close an just need to fine tune it,You can getting a good reading from just riding it,but you literally need to put a good 10+ hours of riding with some high rpm and high speeds.Let the plug really build up,then chop it,if the base ring is starting to fatten up with carbon,its probably a little rich.if its a off white or light tan,you probably need to bump the mains one size.The longer you ride,the better you'll be able to read it.Granted your jetting is very close,I wouldn't attempt it if your just starting to rejet for major mods.

Those chics are the best!They might appear shy and innocent,but they turn into sex starved monsters in the sack

I purchased another shee from a michigan resident.The title was signed over to me upon deliver of the vehicle.Being from ohio I'm not famailiar with the transfer procedures that Michigan goes by.I was told Michigan does not require "Notary" for transfer.I plan on retitling in Michigan,what do I need to complete the transfer?Does the previous owner need to be present? Or can I just walk into Secretary of state branch and have it done? I was going to title it in Ohio,but I would have to supply more notarized documentation,pay out of state inspecton fees and such.Ohio is a pain in the ass. Any info is appreciated.

Is there any way to calculate how much overboring a cylinder will increase compression.Lets say I was on stock bore and went to .040 over,where would that put my compression if it was originally at 130psi. Does someone have a link to a chart?I know pistons differ between manufactureres like Wiseco,ProX,Vitos.But is there any way to calculate this?

Don't get your pantis in a buch Wallrat,I'm sure Shelby wasn't trying to be derogatory.You should know that not everyone at HQ is or wants to be your friend. As far as a girl having guts for posting pics like that.I don't think it takes guts,it just takes a low level of class and self respect. I may get bashed for saying it,but its the honest truth.I would never subject my ol' lady to something like that.I guess I just have too much respect for her.

Congrats man,she looks like a fine woman and if she's willing to tolerate your atv lifestyle,she's definitely a keeper.Hope everything works out for ya'll..

Looks like some tension between Brooke and Sikgrl has ascended on the board. I know how we will be able to resolve this issue.... A good vs evil Pillow fight in sexy lingere. Sikgrl can sport a "satin white" baby doll teddy with fuzzy slippers and Brooke can dawn a "jet black" corset with fishnet stockings and high heels. It would be "The fight of the century" and I would be more than willing to be the guest referee.How bout it ladies? Sometimes I even amaze myself

I guess she's starving for attention Brooke,it must be hard when you ain't got anything going for you except a set of tits.

I agree,in the 3+ years I've ownd my 01' I have had no problems to report.Its pushing close to 120 hrs on the original top-end and the compression is still way above specs for that many hours(130psi w/milled head).Its gotten a little noisy when its cold,so I'm gonna throw some new pistons in it this spring. I have probably replaced every bearing and bushing on the frame and new rotors and brakes,but the engine has never given me any troubles(with the occassional fuel leak from the carbs).I had such good luck wih my first shee,that I bought another one,an 87' and restored it totally. Banshees do require a lot more maintenance,but so does any quad thats "actually ridden" Its easy to blame the design of the machine for its faults,but did you ever think that maybe th design is good and your the fault?Obviously some of you are just not mechanically inclined,so you blame the design

Congrats to Kurt busch and Roush racing.or the second year in a row,a roush racing car has won the championship.Pretty f*ing good considering there are only about 10 Ford teams left in Nextel cup.5 of them were in contention to win the champioship. I'm by no means a Busch fan,I just pull for any Ford team out there.We'll see what Chevy cries about this year to try to slow the Fords down. If you don't know what I'm talkin about,just look at the new gear ratio requirement thats being proposed.All teams will be required to run the same final gear ratios on certain tracks,Why you ask?Cause some engine builders(non fords)can't seem to get the RPM out of there engines.WAH,WAH I think Jimmie Johnson is a great driver and seems like a really cool dude,he just drives the wrong car.

We could always incorperate the "Camel toe" thread into this one.Now theres an idea.Neither one needs to show a picture of their face,just the camel toe and we can base our vote solely on that

Just got one side done on mine.Cleaned up the port dividers too. http://www.bikepics.com/members/nomadbikers/

I ran a 2into1 and hated it.At the time I was running Pc pipes and it made the topend feel very flat,by the plug color the jetting looked good.It was not the 35mm kit,it was the 33mm.I bought it for one reason,better low-midrange performance and I honestly didn't notice a difference. I have always kept my stockers in perfect tune and I check the carb synch at least twice a month during riding season.I think alot of people neglect there stock carbs,never check there reeds and are not jetted 100%.Then they blame the carbs for there poor low-end performance.Also I don't go by the little windows in the carb bodies to check carb synch.I actually use my finger to feel the bottom of the slides at WOT.Its alot more accurate than trying to line up the holes in the sight glass.For any of you who use that method,take your airbox off and doublecheck it by looking down the bores or run your fingertip over the bottom of the slides at about 90% wide open.You'll never synch your carbs using the sight glass again.