Nightrider

I just like to get a rise out of you babe!I wish you felt the same about me

I too worked the "pee on" jobs and as I stated before,dummies need jobs too.Not everyone is suited for college.Dummies and Pee ons built this country going all the wayy back to the 1900's,don't you ever forget that.The reason you have a computer to earn a easy living on today is because of some "pee on". I moved into a higher paying job,I'm still a pee on,A skilled pee on(machinist)but still a pee on. But the fact remains that most of us started in those meaningless jobs and we busted ass to get those higher paying jobs.

I don't know about riding,but your grammer and type skills could use some work. So what your saying is...instead of licking it off the truckstop toilet seat,she sat on it instead?

Rules are rules,look at every other aspects of media today,all of them are feeling it from the Janet Jackson incident.Television and radio is getting hammered with fines. I find it funny how everyone is concerned with Dale Jrs slip and its caused a huge uprising in Nascar,Where was all of this Media hype when Hornaday and Sauter were hit?Nobody gave 2 shits then.Now that one of the golden boys get popped,everyone is crying bloody murder. You can thank Micheal Powell,who sits atop of the FCC.Yea,Mike Powell, related to Colin Powell who in turn sits at the right hand of Bush.Shit has a tendency to roll down hill doesn't it? I think this country is losing its fucking mind.We have bigger problems to worry about then someone saying "shit" on national television or "f*ck" in the lyrics of a song.We have bigger issues that need to be taken care of right now,unfortunately our leaders are having a problem in deciding the order of importance.Certain "bills" and "amendments"are being overlooked so our kids and easily offended people don't have to hear the word "shit" If I was Dale jr,I would cough up 100,000 right in front of a TV camera and say F**k the F**KING FCC and all pussy,shitbags who work there.

I guess when your factory sponsered,you must learn to ride any piece of shit they throw at you. Kawasaki did have a run back in the 80's but the problem with the KX500 is,its been virtually unchanged since the 80's,most importantly the suspension/frame geometry.Therefore can no longer be competitive in the Mx or Sx world. Well since you liked your kawasaki and it beat banshees,then everyone should own one.Maybe we should all get KDX too and sell our banshees Those KDX bikes are garbage,aren't they still using the "old" style forks.It is the year 2004,most bikes do have inverted forks now.

My friend was a smash hit at last years halloween bash.He went as a 70's street pimp and his ole lady and her friends went as 70's hookers.Everything was kool until the alcohol set in and people started propositioning the girls.It got a little out of control,I guess some of the girls didn't like being called F-ing whores.

Sick Boy,you don't look like the Triumph type,more like Harley.What gives?

Who the F*** is Jeff Ward?and when is the last time he raced a KX500 in supercross And anyone whos owned a KX500 will happily verify those statements.He states a stock Kx can't even compete with the handling of this bike,but this bike couldn't even compete with a stock CR,KTM or YZ machine

Everything about those KX bikes suck!The looks are terrible,the handling is deplorable and the reliabilty is questionable.Not to mention those frames are garbage. All I can say is what a waste of money,A supercross bike,this guy must be joking.I don't know anyone who would willingly race a 500 let alone a KX in supercross,no matter how much work the suspension has done to it.

If your killing engines like that,no piston will stand up to that abuse.Obviously you must have no respect for your machine...OR you should check with who ever is responsible for the machining and installations of your top-ends. I'm hard on my shee too,I go through a set of reeds every year and have over 100 hrs on the stock top-end,yet my comp is still 145psi (milled head)and shees quiet as a church mouse. Sounds like something ain't right.

I don't think you'll be able to get the bearing out that way.To remove a bearing with heat,you have to apply the heat very quickly to the area outside the bearing,you have a very small window to work with as the heat will soak into the bearing itself and begin to expand the bearing race.Aluminum has one of the highest heat transfer rates and ovens heat too slowly for bearing removal. Using a Benzomatic(with a good tip) start heating far from the bore,move quickly and work your way in using circular patterns.You'll get to a point where the bearing will probably fall out if you turn it on its side or gently tap it out making sure it stays fairly square in its bore. Now as for installing,The oven trick works good,since the aluminum is expanded and the bearing is room temp.The bearing should slide right in,but be careful if you get it stuck and it gets cocked badly,get it out fast.The heat will begin to soak in quickly since the transfer rate is very high on aluminum.The case could be distorted if the bearing is badly cocked and allowed to cool. Aluminum,steel,and bronze can be heated this way for fast removal of parts,but cast iron is a different animal and will crack if certain precautions are not taken

Get yourself a set of dental picks.They work great for removing circlips,orings etc.

This is what I did,I took a piece of flatsock 1"x1/4"x24" long.Cut a short piece maybe 4 inches and attached it to the end of the long piece(weld or bolted) making a T-shape.I then spotted the holes off the flywheel and drilled two holes in the short piece.I installed two grade 8 bolts (5/16x1 1/4"long)and jammed them with some nuts.I wrapped the threads in some electrical tape and there you go,a perfect flywheel holder.It will be long enough that you can let it rest on the floor and your hands will be free. It costed about 7-8 dollars in material from home depot and I've lent it out to alot of people and has held up well.Sometime when you don't have the right tools for the job,you have to be creative

For what that bitch is worth...I'd be hitten that too.Sorry but money is money,I'll make sure I stop by and see you when I'm out cruising my Lambo Duece!

I got nothing against Bush,but you have got to admit he is one of the worst speakers in presidential history. I hated Clintons guts and thought he was a terrible president,but HE was an excellent speaker.An asshole,but an excellent speaker.I still use that line to this day when accused of banging a nasty bitch......"I did not have sexual relations with that woman"

Like I said he looks like he needed to shit,he was make those grunt faces.

I don't know,I'd have to give this one to Kerry,I think he was a much better speaker.They need to get Bush some cue cards for the next debate and will see if he can win the next one. Thats his only downfall,he looks like a retard when he speaks,what was with all the faces he was making?Looks lke he was squeezing out a turd.

Its not uncommon for us to use 10 or 20 ton hollow rams when removing taper gears or flywheels on industrial equipment.We are talking about machines that exert 100-1000 tons of force.Some of those gears are no bigger than your head.A good taper lock SHOULD require the use of a jack, ram or puller of some sort for removal.Thats the advantage of a taper shaft,you only need to move that prop,gear,whatever a 1/16 or less and it slides right off.Versus a straight shaft that needes to be forced say 6 inches before it comes free. You got to also remember,Boats usually have some type of CLUTCH system that engages the props.That clutch will most likely slip if that kind of stress is exerted on the shaft.The banshee flywheel is directly connected to the crankshaft where it has no buffer.Different applications require different configurations.I've seen taper shafts with 1/4" keys and the same shaft with 3/4" keys. Anti seize does make life easier,but its not always the right way.Any time a shrink or press fit is required,use of antiseize should be avoided. Sandornothing,The keyway itself is the only place where you could get away with a very little bit of antiseize,but avoid getting it on the taper.

I never said you couldn't,but like you said its there to index the flywheel,not to hold the rotational force.Thats a no-no in the industrial mechanics world. My profession is a millwright and I can tell you by experience thats never done on tapered spindles,especially ones that see that type of rotational force and torque. To make it plain and simple.take two sheets of 1/4" steel 4x8 feet and stack 2000 lbs on it,now take 2 more sheets of 1/4"steel 4x8 feet,but this time spread a thin layer of anti seize between them and stack on the 2000lbs. Obviously the sheets with the antiseize are going to slide much easier and will require less force to move them. When you torque the flywheel nut ,you are creating a "press fit"betwwen the spindle and bore.The force is soo great that the bore actually clamps on the spindleshaft locking it in place like a vise grip.Anti seize does just what it says,it prevents parts from seizing together,but in reality thats how the taper shaft works. I'd say you've been lucky,but in the future I'd avoid anti-seize.Even a light film of lithium grease would be ok.Just a little FYI

YOU WILL COOK YOUR REEDS!Just for an example,I usually get 1 season(8 months) out of a set of reeds,needless to say I'm pretty hard on them.On the low setting I only got 3 months before they were so worn my shee wouldn't idle.I was so f-ing pissed and I too read the disclaimer,but thought I knew more than they did. it really helps out the top-end,but F-that its not worth changing the reeds that often.

Looking at my timeslips,I stand corrected with 14/41 gears and 22 inch tires I pulled the best of 81mph.With no front fenders I peaked at 85 That machine looks like it has 20's on it.with 13/41 he'd be lucky to hit 70mph.

I doubt 91 mph.Even with 22 inch rear tires and 13/41 gears I could only muster 81 mph in the 1/4 mile and I too run Pc pipes

Like Fitit says,the key is only as good as the person who installed it.The flywheel must be torqued to specs and avoid putting any locking compound or anti seize on the shaft or in the keyway. Its a taper lock design.When torqued to the proper specs,the nut actually produces a press fit.The force thats applied actually makes the flywheel bore "bite" down on the tapered part of the shaft. Just wipe the shaft with a light film of oil before you reinstall the flywheel.

Headache or not,I still think its well worth it,I almost took on that task,but I just wouldn't have the time and patients for it at this time in my life(too much work).Good luck with the Cr500 project,let us know how it does on the track. BTW that banshee engine rocks!.I took it out on the trail this weekend for an extended trip and it performed very well.I've already stomped a mudhole in a couple of modded Raptors I ride with.Not just beat them,but blew them away.Its unbelievable how much different this engine is compared to the one in my 01.The fatty pipes really added to the midrange power this motor has.You did a good job on this engine.Sickboy built one "Sick" engine

Check to see if your carbs are synced and the idle is adjusted the same for both sides.Then make the airscrews the same and start over.Had a similar problem a couple years ago and could,'t figure out why one carb needed 1.5 turns out and the other liked 1 3/4 turns out. Turns out carbs were out of sync and one slide was open about 1/16 more than the other at idle. Now I check the carbs twice a year.Unbelievable the difference when the carbs are perfectly in sync.