boonman

I hear ya man. I know what it's all about. I don't make that much on them.... It's realy no big deal. Just gives me some extra scoots for the shee fund ya know!!! And that's why I'm not gonna try and compete.. At least not right now anyways... Sell away my man, sell away!!!!

Hey peeps. Heres the call out. I am in need of a clutch basket. Preferrably stock, and also preferrably with a decent clutch in it.... Or, just the basket itself. I am not picky... I also need the water pump drive gear. I also need a dipstick. Preferrably stock.. I need some other things, but I forgot. I will update this tomorrow. Perhaps we can work out a trade or somethin on some mods if you need them... If not, get me a price. Either here, or by PM...... Thanks boyz and girls....

Nope. Never had one sent back, and I doubt I ever will. If I do, the person has to be the oddest banshee rider on the planet. It is an excellent mod. And I hear ya on the j/k part Checkster. I figured you was!!!

Nope. For now, price stands at $65 shipped. I do quality work, and it's worth it.... it costs me about $6 on my UPS account to ship a flywheel. So, $55 is relatively $4 cheaper........ But, I carry a money back guarantee. You don't like the flywheel, no problem. Send it back, And I'll send you a stock flywheel, unmodified with your money back....

I had to do it before, and Got1Banshee came around. Hopefully this guy or girl comes around in the same fashion..... Here's the link.... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18605

I got my fatties for $100 shipped, and I got another set of fatties shipped for $170. The latter of the two are nickel plated and i will be swapping them for my rusty shitters... Jetting specs ca be found in the jetting forum, and your elevation neds to be known...

It's no problem. Competition is good!! It keeps business alive!!!

Yep. I do them for $65 shipping included. And guaranteed next business day service. Unless, of course, that one uses a 3-jaw puller on their flywheel before they sent them to me. lol. I also Machine stock heads, and mod shift stars.

Cool. Although, I still, to this day, do not grind anything on the mill. But, nonetheless, I am glad that you are impressed.

Sounds good. Just curious.

Looks good. However, I doubt very much that he milled them. Perhaps whittled? lol, I am thinking they were turned down in a lathe........ What type of shipping method does he use?

Yes. A surface grinder to machine the head. You can't use a grinder to "mill" anything. lol Anyways, the mill, if not "trammed" in properly, can dish the head. I also love the finish that I get off the surface grinder as opposed to fly-cutting it on a mill. It doesn't really take me that much longer to do it on the grinder, and the work is that much better....

are you sure?

to identify type /ns identify <your email> or /ns help identify and it will spit instructions at you....

paddles baybe, paddles. Just kidding. I will be runing some sort of knobby. prolly 20" tamers......

Now when I crack Stan up, I got to be on the right track!!!!!

I don't know how bad the case is without looking at it. The case would be impossible to weld to the clip. Steel, to aluminum doesn't form a very strong bond. it has to come out somehow. Perhaps heat will be needed. You should be able to clean it up enough to slap a crank in there.....

I am running an oval pro-design flange, with a UNI foam filter. works splendidly. and it is the only way to go with a stock airbox....

Well now, what kind of mods on each bike?

Precisely!!!

If your motor is stock, and nothing else is changed, milling the head .025" you won't have to check a thing. Ih ave seen a couple oddball motors that at .030" off the head, had a marginal squish. But, they ran beautiful on pump fuel at sea level without a problem. I have pics up in the images forum of how I do cylinder heads, and I can assure you that you won't get a better job anywhere else. Surface grinder provides the cleanest finish possible. better than stock. And I chhamfer all the coolant openings. And debur the entire thing. You get the head back, and it is ready to bolt on.....

What do you mean by big bore? is it a 404? Or is it just overbored .040" or something similar? Anyways, your jetting sounds a little lean, depending on elevation, and temp. Now, I had a problem exactly like you describe. It turns out that my primary coil wire, (the orange one) had come loose on the terminal. my bike started and ran fine, you got on it, and once it should be in the powerband, it would spit, sputter, backfire, and do all sorts of crazy shit. Also could be a cracked reed......

What????? I cannot decipher through some of your nonsense.... now, on your boost bottle thing. It is called a boost bottle. That may not be what it does, but that is what it is marketed as, and what it is called. From the factory, the shee comes with an equalizer tube. This I believe is what you are referring to.... And after installing your equalizer tube you jumped your jetting that much? WOW. You have the pleasure of being the first to have to do that..... How nice....

The TORS is what is causing this problem. it is the Throttle Override system. You can eliminate it buy unplugging the black box under the fuel tank next to the coil.

This needs to be solved. Otherwise, you can't change your oil..... That is bad.... Now, I am guessing that it is oil. You say it leaked all over the pipes... This sounds like coolant. But, where on the pipes did it leak? If you had one of the vents clogged from the tranny, than it could be pushed out of the other tube. Expansion and contraction of the oil could cause this. There are two transmission vents. One in the rear, and one towards the front. They connect together...