lowriderb

pics as well please, [email protected] thanks B

why not just order one yourself, and install it yourself.. call the people at pingel and talk to them about it, installation is very simple.. web site http://www.pingelonline.com/ valve you need (part number 3110-d-ah4) http://www.pingelonline.com/hex_dual_race.htm

also dont listen to a shop that doesnt know your bike about the tuning of it, after you get it ported and such your going to need much bigger jets than 300's in it.. the jets for the stock carbs go up to 500.. i used to have almost every set in between too..

they also work very well with an override, for fast shifting though you may have to let off the gas a little in order to get the fingers to unlock before you can pull the clutch in. ive got the same motor your looking at building.. and for mine, (drag only) a lockup was necessity..

that doesnt seem like a bad price, you can deffinitly figure 1100 for the cylinders (coated), 170 for pistons (if you dont get a deal on them) and about 450-500 for the crank (depending on the deal) so 1750 isnt too bad.. you may be able to get a better deal from other places or buying things separate could be the way to go.. port work on the cub cylinders is very minor so a "port job" on them is mainly a clean up with possibly minor changes to the port layout, unless your draggin, then there are some changes that can be made.. also if your mixing cylinders, like a 14mm crank and 10mm long rod cubs..

i was just thinking the same thing.. on the larger gas motors your still going to be out flowing the stock petcock by the carbs.. i would get one and put it in yourself instead of paying someone to do it for you, its fairly simple to do as well the basics of it are you pull off the stock one, cut out the middle section to fit the pingel in it and the screw the plate on to the tank, the teflon tape the threads on the valve and screw it in.. not too much work at all to have the piece of mind that your stuff isnt going to suck the lines dry..

it depends on the transmission, if its a 2-5 you wont need the spring, if its a 1-4 you will.. you dont want to back load the trans, meaning you dont want to engine brake the bike or it will bend or break shift forks..

would you care to elaborate on this? a freind of mine has these same carbs on gas in his 350 and it runs fine with them as well.. which are now converted to alcohol and still runs great.. the bigger carbs seem to help out a good bit with the bigger higher flow motors, and from all that ive seen the cubs like to have bigger carbs on them so thats why i am going to be boring them out to 40mm's..

thats what ive been running on my 4mm stock cylinder, and 4mm cub.. on alcohol for both motors.. and will be boring them out to 40mm's soon too.. it ran great with the stock cylinders, and runs great with the cubs..

you can save yourself about 10 bucks or so if you just order them from chaparrel.. http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Chaparral/...11A1C7020A6EF2D

i posted these in a different thread.. but its good to show others that may not have seen that one.. 4mm cub (mine) vs 350 banshee http://media.putfile.com/4mm-cub-vs-350-banshee 4mm cub (mine) vs stock cyl 7 or 10mm http://media.putfile.com/4mm-cub-vs-7-or-10mm-stock-cyl 4mm cub (mine) vs 10mm trex http://media.putfile.com/4mm-cub-vs-10mm-trex 4mm cub (mine) vs. 16mm cheetah (my bike lost but look by how much i lost by, i think 4 or so bike lengths is doing pretty good.. ) ttp://media.putfile.com/16mm-cheetah-vs-4mm-cub

if the bore is good right now, go ahead and get it ported, then after expect to resleeve the cylinders later.. the bb sleeves cut back on the already small transfer areas in the stock cylinders.. you can make the smaller/stock sleeved motors run harder than the stock stroke big bore because of this..

pretty much for these to run hard you only really need to clean up the port work, the durations are set pretty aggressive from calvin.. if i remember right the exhuast is already at like 198 but the tripples are a little lower at like 194 or so.. the transfers are somewhere around 130/132 or so as well.. for the whole port work thing if you raise the exhaust about 1mm it will be at like 200 degrees or so.. evening up the tripples is helpful too.. pretty much all the prices are ganna be about the same, check and make sure what all you may get with them, pistons ect.. you may also want to talk to one of the builders carrying them and get a set of custom cut domes, that would give you a better running motor than an off the shelf set..

when you order them from anyone, be sure to ask for the stud extenders, and the plugs. both should come with the setup but for some reason they didnt with the set i had.. so there was alot of late overnight orders being put through for the two sets that i had to handle (mine and a set for my friends 14mm cub).. there isnt much to the porting for the cubs to make them run very hard... pump gas would deffinitly be usable.. as for the bore i wouldnt think there would be much of a difference with them, though the bigger bore is probably helpful, in your situation to where you dont want bb domes,go ahead and get the smaller bore.. the next think your going to want to think about is carbs and pipes... these things like to breathe.. for my motor im running 38mm carbs and about to bore them to 40mm's (i have a 4mm cub 68mm bore)... so consider that..

the set up ive been runing are the stock fibers with barnett steels and springs.. another set up ive seen people run were the off clutch fiber out of the warrior with barnett steels and springs.. (one fiber in it is wider than the rest that is the one you want).. both setups will run you about 80-110 bucks..

it looks like that frame is set up for a single a arm type.. where the shock (usually a marvin) goes directly into the spindle.. unless there is a bar that has to be added or something.. for an upper a arm..

38mm CV carb setup? Yikes! That's huge! biggrin.gif one single 38..pfff...lol run two of them and see how fast the fuel comes out of the tank...

ive talked with a few people that have swiched from 5's to 6's and wish they didnt and plan to go back..

i ended up cutting the ends of the bolts off and getting new sleeves and bolts.. i got a air saw between the frame and end cap on the a arm and cut the end of the bolt off from there..

a friend of mine has a set that was cut for his 4mm stock cylinder for a prodesign head that were never ran.. ill ask him and see how much he would want for them if your interested..

oh yeah my set up is a 4mm cub (ported) 38mm mikuni's, cpi out frames, 1-4 override (soon to be changed to a 1-5), 14-42 gearing, 22in 12 paddles.. my spindle mounts didnt come in in time to have them for this race but they are on the way..

here's a few vids of my 4mm cub that we had about 30mins of tuning on running at the clash of the titans this past weekend.. (we got it completly together at about 430 on friday morning..).. 4mm cub vs. 350 banshee http://media.putfile.com/4mm-cub-vs-350-banshee 4mm cub vs 10mm trex http://media.putfile.com/4mm-cub-vs-10mm-trex 4mm cub vs. 7 or 10mm stock cylinder http://media.putfile.com/4mm-cub-vs-7-or-10mm-stock-cyl and even though it was a loss (but look at how close it actually was is the point) 16mm cheetah vs. 4mm cub http://media.putfile.com/16mm-cheetah-vs-4mm-cub not too shabby i dont think..

if you measure how far down the exhaust is from the top lip of the cylidner to the top edge of the exhaust opening i could find out about how much it was raised for you..

now for comparison sake between you and your buddy, get port work on your bike and go back and compare the two.. see which one would be more worth it to you..

the big motors like 14's and 16's ive seen sprayed didnt take to the larger shots well.. maxing out and gaining the best at like a 30 shot or so... as apposed to someone i know thats spraying his 350 with like a 75 or so..