lowriderb

its deffinitly not all about the times with pretty much everyone i ride with.. the times are just a good thing to know.. and helps you know what your running up against when you run at the dunes with some moron spitting out that his (stock) banshee runs in the 4.2 range.. with stock everything but pipes..

it looks like the clip off the kick starter gear... you may want to go ahead and pull the clutch basket all the way off and look becuase it will be a mother if you ruin a good basket and gear for something that simple

for the cost of the sleeves being put in and all you could just buy a set of cub cylinders.. un-ported they will make more power than a big bore stock cylinder set up.. matter of fact a set of stock bore cylinders would make more power than the big bore sleeves in a stock cylidner because of how much it cuts down on the transfer area on the already small transfers..

youll take off the stock side cover. the 6 bolts that hold the springs to the pressure plate will come out, the lock up will bolt in over those springs (with provided hardware) and then youll put on your modified side cover.. its really self explanatory when you have the parts in your hands and see them first hand.. alot of people also suggest to run the stock springs with a lockup but i kept my barnet ones in..

still looking for one..

you have a pm.. thanks B

im looking for a stock banshee flywheel.. hit me up with what you got.

like others have said the wheelie bar seems short.. and you were unloading the tires, and when you were on the tires it wasnt enough to hook.. with mine i had a fuel problem, slipping clutches and went a 4.56.. i dont have a wheelie bar either.. my chassis does have marvins all around,jjanda drag axle and a +10 swingarm.. the motor at the time was a 4mm stock cylinder, with 38mm mikuni carbs, 1-4 override. the tires were 22in 12 paddle.. with 15/41 gearing.. once i got the fuel problem worked out and a lockup i never got to go back to the track with it before tearing it back down.. but was expecting to see some 4.1's or so. the cub top end should be done very soon and im expecting to see some faster times than that.. you could try some taller gearing you should be able to pull it with no problems.. and what carbs are you running?

you would do better by just getting port work, it would be more reliable. you would also get more power out of port work over the simulated port work that the pistons will give..

is the clutch basket grooved or anything as well?

how does the rest of the port job look? i would imagine about the same... though the intakes on the banshees arent the bottle neck at all the intake has almost nothing to do with the kind of power the cylinders make..

piston failure.. and this is what could happen if you had one.. blown cylinders/head, shot crank, broken cases, crank seals, ect.. its a bad idea to buy used pistons.. unless your in an extreme bind i wouldnt use them.. and even in an extreme bind i dont think i would run cast pistons if they were given to me..

hey man, its 54mm's stroke and stock bore is 64mm's

from the people ive talked to get the t5's instead of the t6's the 5's seem to work better with ported motors than the 6's.. yes the blaster pistons are 66mm's but dont just bore your cylinders out to .080 over just to fit those pistons to the cylinders.. if you are currently on a smaller bore look into running some 795 series pistons instead..that way you wont be on your second to last bore incase something happens..

if your out in the dunes your usually not riding right next to someone that could bump you.. and usually your standing up with weight on your feet and foot pegs which shouldnt slip off like that.. i had a set and couldnt stand them so they got 86'd about 3 months after i bought them..

4 bars, two that bolt up to some longer pinch bolts on the carrier straps, and two that could bolt up to where the grab bar bolts up to.. usually ran on a track about 6-8 inches off the track, or out in the dunes about 8-10inches to accomodate ruts..

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=56784

you may be pushing it with 7degrees on pump fuel.. as long as your running 93 octane and not trying to be cheap you should be fine with 5 or4 degrees advanced with that compression..

seeing how you have a 4mm and its ported, you should be breaking into the mid to high 4's or so depending on how you launch it and your shifting abillities and stuff that would be what i would expect...

i didnt want to clutter up your other thread, but looks like im building the same size motor as you mine will be done in the next couple of weeks as well as paints and some other shinies..

i wasnt trying to sound condesending or anything, just to make things faster if its a known good motor and say you were only going after the shift forks or crank seals where it wouldnt need to be down for long, you could leave the half moon clip off the cases when reassymbling everything, then once you get the side covers off you could just pull the cases apart by the case bolts, and not have to take the clutch assymbly ect apart.. though the clutch side gear and stator would still need to come off that would be much easier done with the clutches in place with an impact to get to the crank seals.. besides that its a much better illistration than whats in the clymers manual.. the pics arent in black and white.. but im sure there are some grease stains on some peoples screens after looking through this..lol

just a few critiques so it will go alot smoother next time.. just so you can make a few steps shorter next time, you dont have to take the adjustment out of the clutches, that way they are still pretty much in adjustment when you put it back together.. unless your changing the pressure plate.. also you can leave the clutch fibers and steels in and press them with your thumb pretty hard so they dont slip and hit the basket nut and crank nut with an impact.. that will break them loose without having to worry about bending a rod with the extension through it.. clutch arm also does not need to come out till after you get the cases apart, to prevent sand and dirt from getting into the bearings. there is not that much tention on the spring for the kickstarter gear so plier's were needed.. and so you dont cut or mess up the gasket surface for the clutch side cover dont use a knife or screw driver to pry the cover off.. they come off pretty easy if you just pull on them, once the water line o rings is clear it comes right off.. the starter gear does not need to come off either.. it will stay in place even if you are having to pull the trans out, as well pull the shift shaft out. you will not have to pull the adjustment off stud off for the shaft either to get the drum and shift fork shafts out, there are plugs on the stator side of the motor that they will push through easily.. oh dont forget about the degree key as well.. you dont want to loose that..

do a plug reading and see what they look like, your looking to have the porcelain on the plugs almost a chocolate milk color.. 310's should be about right for the stock carbs, the toomey set up usually comes with that set of jets.. and is usually set up without the airbox lid.. if your going to keep the air box make sure to get a pro flo plate in there so the filter stays put.. the stock filter will come out..

well the fmf's and t5's arent going to let the motor perform like it would if you were to put a better pipe on there.. personally i would look to get some cpi's or shearer's because the gain on top end would be worth it, and the added stroke will help on bottom as much..

the person thats building the motor can cut the domes to run the stroke out of the cylinders, thats the better running of the two instead of running a spacer plate.. once the port work is set up you shouldnt have any problems hitting your target or beating your target hp goal.. i would deffinitly consider getting bigger carbs if your still running the stockers they will choke down the motor.. and also consider getting a better set of pipes other than the fmf's if you can..