lowriderb

thats cool, you cant really ever tell by just pics..

am i the only one that cought the first post.. 175 to port BOTH of your cylinders...lol i didnt know anyone only ported one cylinder for banshee's.. the intake looks pretty big, it being that large your going to lose velicity going into the motor as well as the transfers looks like the roof angles havent been really touched (just from the pics they may have been though). and from what it looks like in the pics the exhaust port seems to be lowered on the corners (dunno if thats correct seeings how its not the sleeve side showing, or right side up). when you strap the jugs on roll it over and check to make sure the exhaust port isnt lower than the piston.. also from your pics you cant tell make sure the ports are chamfered so you dont snag a piston..

your probably going to want to run a little bit longer arm as well..

i would just get some tdr reeds over the v force, ive been running them in the stock cages for a good while now and havent broken but one set in 2 1/2-3 years.. 30 bucks and then ported stock cages.. you cant beat the price

im pretty confident that my premix doesnt call for a handful of dirt mixed in there.. so the screens on the petcocks should be fine for my bike.. besides the extra filters that your adding to the system is going to slow down the flow to the carbs.. once those filters are in the least bit dirty they will slow down the flow enough for you to lean out the motor (yes even gas motors will do this)..

when you eliminated the tors system did you cross the two wires comeing from the handle bars? also what is the jetting at thats in the carbs, as well as what have you done different inside the motor to make it need more fuel or less fuel.. also at what temp was it tuned in for when it was running last?

for the ammount of low end you talking about your most cost effective route would be to get the stock cylinders ported for your style of riding, the cubs will lay down more power without a doubt, but like aczar said he got into one open area and let em shine.. banshee's arent exactly the best machines in tight intricate trails.. if you have the money to put out for the cubs you probably wont be dissappointed, unless you never ride the motor to potential.. then youll give up the trails for more open areas..

yes im saying that you should not put one on there, if they were needed they would come from the factory with them, as well you shouldnt be putting fuel with that much dirt and all into your tanks anyways..

the cubs come pretty stout to begin with, a little porting will make them run more on top than anything.. the 2 into 1 carb set up will highly limit the potential of the motor as well as the pipes.. for bottom end though have you considered just getting the stock jugs ported for your riding style? also another issue i ran into with running a milled/rechambered stock head is that it would leak into the cylinders, with a cool head there isnt any of that problem..

no, and none.. if they were needed then they would be installed stock, also the stock petcock as well as the pingel valves wouldnt have any screens on them..

you best bet for draggin would be to get the cubs for the smaller strokes.. on up to about 10mm is where you start seeing the differences, the pipes you have arent the best set up either.. the cubs and cheetah's like to breathe..

the timing plate would probably end up making more power over a degree key anyways.. seeings how the degree key's arent as accurate as the plates the advance for a 4* key only ends up being about 2.5*'s or so of actual advance.. then theres the possibility of putting them in backwards or shearing them off.. (the 7* keys are know for shearing the best).. then again the pvl could be a different option too..

i doubt tdr is wanting to take all this guys money and set him up to lose the ammount of hp that he will lose with the stock carbs on their account.. it sounds to me like its up to him on the carb set up.. i can see where money can run out, but if your really going to get this running right then your going to have to get some bigger carbs.. the cubs like to have the bigger carbs as well... 33's in this case may be still too small to feed these cylinders.. i would opt to go with some 35's or possibly bigger depending on what your doing with the motor..

its a clean cut, but no there isnt really much of a way to tell with just pics

just opening them up a few mm's isnt going to change much, when you get into changing the whole port layout is where you start wanting to get more exact with the measurements/angles/shapes..

like others have said you really need to see the durations of the ports and such to give an idea of the type of porting,size of and different angles in the transfer roof's, exhaust port width, height and shape all play a part of the port job. none of which your probably going to get from most builders on the net.. though you will get some general info on the durations they tend to use for a few different types of riding styles.. also as which the weight of the rider and such will play a part in the durations used for the motor.. besides that bead blast the intake and transfers before you have the cylinders bored and try them things out..

you could, look into picking up a used aftermarket head ($120), port the stock reed cages and get some tdr reeds ($30), and possibly save the rest to either get a better set of stock jugs to have ported for the 4mm and domes cut for the same as well that will drop right into the head (the domes for the 350 can be cut to run with the 4mm motor.). 4mm crank (450?) port work in the 450-600+ range, domes cut around 40-70 bucks. the suspension is up to you depending on what your doing with the bike..

your better set up would be to get the 795 pistons, and run the cylinders without a spacer plate, then just have your builder cut the domes in the head to accomodate the stroke, the piston rings will not leave the cylinders with a 4mm. once that is done just have the builder degree the cylinders and port them according to what he or you prefer.. the port timing difference from the stock stroke to the 4mm will change, when i swapped to the 4mm my stock jugs were drag ported and re-used with the new stroke. the exhaust duration went from like a 201-202 to a 198.. the transfers did the same but i dont remember what they were at..

check into some golf cart tires or such, they may be dot approved, running big rims on any quad is just pointless and stupid...

you can run the stockers for now, though you would gain more by going with bigger carbs with port work. for now with porting the stockers should get you by..

there is usually an arrow pointing the way the piston needs to face, the arrow points towards the exhaust port. if you look at the grooves for the rings there are pins that the rings will squeeze around and wont be able to move, like everyone else said.. if you cant see them stop and get a friend to look at them for you..

come to think of it, why not call calvin pollet (cpindustries) and talk to him about them since he is the person that makes the cylinders he can point you in a better direction..

are the cylinders the 350 cylinders or the 4mm cylinders.. because the 4mm cylinders you will not need a spacer plate in order to run them, just big bore domes (68mm bore). if they are 350 cylinders then you should talk with the person that ported them and see what they say about it, more than likely they would rather set it up in the port work for that crank..

it sounds like your not feeding them enough through the carbs the pipes.. also are they the big cheetah's or the cubs (just making it clear because the cheetah's can come without the power valves and the cubs dont have them at all)..

http://www.web-cars.com/math/displacement.html click on metric and 2 cylinders. put in the stroke and bore to find out cc's... like was said stock stroke is 54mm's so a 4mm crank will make it 58mm's stock bore is 64mm's as well.. it looks like your cc's is 390.868cc's with a 65.50 bore..