lowriderb

did you get the cylinders with plating? or bare? if its not too old mellinium may "warranty" the plating if it was their fault.. i think the 485 4mm is with the big cheetah's as well..

another thing ive done before is use some high temp paint down the neck of the head pipes.. that will help against the bluing before you run them..

youd have to split the cases.. i would do it even with a stock bike after catching mine when it started to come apart..

cryo'ing the trans helps with the strenth to an extent, but you should be good with the smaller motors. the override should shift really easy and be almost no notchyness to the shifting... with the bigger motors its usually 2nd gear that goes anyways which a few places sell billet 2nds..

im considering going to a bigger set up and will be looking to sell my 4mm cub, everything has about 4-6hrs on it. after clash of the titans ride i took the motor down to cut a 1-5 trans (1-4 was in it), and while i got it apart i figured i would go to a bigger set up anyways.. i was thinking of asking 1600 for everything give or take a little.. what i have is. wiseco hot rods crank (that was trued and welded) cub cylinders (68mm bore,ported by craig at cpcustoms, with stud extenders and water jacket plugs in) pistons i also have a stock head that was cut for this set up but im not going to be selling that.. i have posted a few vids of it running in a few other threads (as are posted here as well), they run hard as hell (beating bigger bikes) and there is nothing wrong with anything on this set up, like i said everything only has about 4-6hrs on it total and i would guess to say that it would be high balling it.. http://media.putfile.com/4mm-cub-vs-350-banshee http://media.putfile.com/4mm-cub-vs-10mm-trex http://media.putfile.com/4mm-cub-vs-7-or-10mm-stock-cyl

1 pipes 2 air filters/carbs 3 port work 4 aftermarket head with domes to match motor needs 5 suspension (i.e. tires, shocks/swing arm/a arms) jetting isnt an upgrade its tuning.. in order for a motor to perform right it needs tuning, the stock timing plate can be slotted to get you by for a while as well, tors can be bypassed and the tors carb tops can be left on there with no adverse effects..most of that can be done for cheap or free..

you could possibly cut down the foot peg a little or get a little bit longer bolts and cut some spacers for it which is the route that i went because my pegs are chromed..

there was a turbo banshee fs in a drag frame that was built by a&s, it was listed on ebay as well as on planetsand.. http://www.planetsand.com/ubbthreads/showf...0/page/1#460075

i would get wiseco's as well.. the cast pistons just dont seem to last under the abuse we put our bikes through.. and check your local shops about boring prices.. they may be able to get your cylinders and all bored faster than shipping them out back and forth..

just wait till one of the guys you ride with or you get someone elses' work and are spanking all of the trinity bikes...lol

since your not really trying to ride the bike like a 4 stroke, stick with the 33's until you feel that a bigger carb set up would benifit you more.. imo dual 26mm carbs are pretty small for a naturally aspirated 350 (in pretty much stock form) (52mm's total area),so how is one single 35mm carb enough.. with a good tune on dual carbs they will have very crisp throttle response, and if you get the right size carbs for your application you will get better results with the motor your trying to build.. if you wash your bike the motor will stay clean.. sync'ing carbs isnt rocket science.. you pull the filters off and adjust them till the both open at the same time and all the way.. i dont get holes in my outerwares either..i run out of frame pipes..lol

with methanol your usually going to have to drill the jets to make them the right sizes.. did someone do a conversion on them for you or are you just adding the power jets yourself? the average size dump tube/main jet is drill bit size .116 with around a .093 power jet.. though with the bigger motor your probably going to need the dumps and mains to be around .120 and a little smaller on the power jets..

are the bolt holes lining up? if not turn the spacer one turn.. and it should slide right on.. also like it was asked what type of reeds?

exactly right.. you can open up the intakes and make them look pretty.. but your only hitting one spot on the the whole cylinder to make it look good for the pics that are posted (which mean absolutely nothing).. when doing the port job you need to consider what durations your wanting to go to (exhaust height/transfer height ect..), transfer roof angles, exhuast shape, intake size (big isnt always the best).

it is true you can make the dyno say pretty much anything you want.. adjusting the calculations a bit will do that..

155mm rods?? do you think maybe they are 115mm rods (4mm long rod crank)? wiseco 795 series pistons.. they are in all the stock bores..

the crank only will have those o rings on it.. the woodruff key should fit just like stock did..

tipically around 40-50 a hole.. the head being only milled about 35.. and 90 for it to be cut and rechambered (with a much better combustion chamber)..

just put them on a stock motor and bam 10mms all day long.. you dont even have to change pipes.. just add that and a boost bottle and your in the club.. after running them and having a friend of mine (same size and type motor, same carbs/pipes/porting/suspension ect..) the only difference that we have between the two bikes is the reeds and rider we both ran pretty much side by side or who ever got the hole shot.. so better flow no.. costs for the two different sets of reeds .. i like the idea of having 200 bucks to spend else where on the bike than in the reeds..and then on replacement reeds once (not if but when) the v force carbon fiber reeds break (about 50 or so to replace each time).. but hey you guys do what you want.. just so you remember that there are other options out there other than following the crowds..

if he's got a cool head that was held on by the nuts and studs then he already has the longer studs in there.. with that being said he shouldnt need to replace them .. when your putting the o-rings back on you could use some red rtv or something that will be tacky in order to hold the o-rings in that face the jugs (cylinder and outer) the stud o-rings will not need this and then the oring on the top as well.. just make very sure you dont pinch one or it will leak.. if you must remove the studs and do not have a stud puller (snap on makes one), you can just take two of the 12mm head nuts and back them together and tighten them against on another and back the stud out with no problems..

it must have been magic..lol the pins pistons usually dont like to come out easy after theyve been run.. but have you taken out the circlips? they also look to be stock pistons.. if not some cast piston..

its part of the set up that i have.. so yeah it could be considered a factor.. my bike is the maroon and black one, its a ported 4mm cub in the stock frame.. 10 over arm drag axle, 15/42 gearing 22 12 paddle haulers, 38mm tm's on alcohol,1-4 over ride (runing out of gear), lockup ect, marvin shaws all around, PORTED STOCK CAGES WITH TDR REEDS..lol i posted these vids before.. http://media.putfile.com/4mm-cub-vs-7-or-10mm-stock-cyl http://media.putfile.com/4mm-cub-vs-10mm-trex http://media.putfile.com/4mm-cub-vs-350-banshee it must just be that i took the boost bottle off of it..

ok.. since you say so.. ill just keep beating the bigger bikes with the way mine is set up.. and save up to build a different bike.. these 4mm's beating 10's is fun..

like ive said in other threads, ported stock cages with tdr reeds flow as much as the vforce reeds...and thats what has been run in mine since about 02 or 03..

with a few of the aftermarket carbs (pj 34's included) ive seen that the slides didnt open all the way up because there wasnt enough cable in the throttle cable.. the motion pro cables are usually a culpret..the throttle stop on the lever is another place to look and see if its going far enough.. and then the carb tops can be adjusted as well.. all to get the slack out and pull the slides all the way up.. possibly look into getting a terry cable for the throttle (about $60 and look better than the motion pro's also), next you can possibly grind a little of the lip off of the throttle stop.. on most all carbs the slide should be able to push up into the neck area till there is about an 1/8 in. of the slide sticking out..