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Everything posted by 97Screamer

  1. Larger tires and smaller rims will not slide/drift near as much. I have some quads with 22x11 - 8" and others 20x10-10" and there is a huge difference. If you really want the best bang for your buck get rid of that swingarm and go stock length. A +6 isnt going to turn regardless of the tires you put on there.
  2. Damn Gusto, a RD arm for a PRM bumper sounds like a pretty good trade for you.
  3. You've got the perfect setup imo. +2 arms and 4/1 wheels will get you to 46-48" and the 4/1 wheels will provide better handling and less bump steer compared to 3/2.
  4. The best thing you could do with one of these stators is throw it in the trash and buy an oem. There is a reason no one has talked about them for 5 years.
  5. The gear that engages your clutch basket and kicker should not wiggle, only rotate. If you can wiggle it you need a new bushing in there.
  6. I would check the idler gear play. They are known to pop off when they get worn and eat your clutch and/or transmission.
  7. Sounds like a problem with your kick idler gear
  8. Usually its the crappy electronics that do this. OEM CDI, stator and coil only on these bikes.
  9. Send me your address, I have a pile of them.
  10. I'm sorry to say but that set is not oem. The circle above the 2gu means they are copies.
  11. I'll make you some too Tony, just the cost of materials.
  12. These are perfect for you then. By far the loudest pipes I've ever ran.
  13. I'm with you, I wish there was. When I get caught up on all my projects I'm planning on making some carbon ones a la Claude. I'll let you know if that ever happens.
  14. You can buy an adapter from stb and run a 97 and up cdi. Probably your cheapest option as there are a lot more of those around. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
  15. Yeah they are long gone I believe but the balljoints will be a standard size and easy to replace.
  16. The only way you're going to find them is by taking one and measuring it. No one will have a "Wicked Arm Kit". American star sell just about every size and type, call them if you're not sure and they'll help you get the measurements: https://american-star-manufacturing-llc-2.myshopify.com/collections/ball-joints
  17. $225 for those? They are literally not worth the cost of shipping.
  18. Yep, same set. If they don't sell I'll keep them for my srp build. It's been over a year and I still haven't finished it so I'm not in immediate need of the pipes. You're still welcome to go out and test them sometime if you'd like before you buy your own. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
  19. I know you haven't had a banshee in 20 years but that's what they're selling for if someone wants a set now. I've seen a couple chrome sets sell for more than that on Facebook. If no one wants them I'll keep them for my build like I was planning on doing. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
  20. I have a chrome set I'd sell for $1100.
  21. Leave the volt meter in the light socket and rev the bike up. Does it go above 11V? I wouldn't get too caught up in ohms on the lighting circuit, its probably a cheap meter or in too high a range to detect the 0.2ohms. You can also test voltage coming out of stator between the black and yellow wires. Should be ~12-14Vac at idle and 30-40Vac when revving.
  22. Oem voltage regulator and lights or you trying to run leds on AC current? Plug your volt meter into the headlight sockets in AC mode and see what you're getting. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
  23. I bought oem LTR450 tubes and ends to use with my Fireball arms. They are 12mm and the proper taper and length to use stock banshee stem and spindles. Elka is notorious for sending shocks out that are poorly setup new which is why I say to order them through a builder. Fox and Axis do a much better job out of the box in my opinion.
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