oldskool

Pull carb off, then pull intake off, then pull reed cage out and check pedals for cracks or broken reeds. The reeds should snap shut and prevent air/exhaust/gas mixture from flowing back through carb.

Do a compression test to see if you need a top end rebuild. If you do need one, only bore what you need to get the cylinders cleaned up. This will save the cylinders for future bores. A adjustable timing plate set at +4 is a common mod with noticeable change in performance. (45.00) If you need cylinders bored and can afford porting, this will be one of the biggest gains you can get for the money, but you will also want some different pipes. The list keeps going, just depends how fast you can afford to go

The trx 250r has lots of aftermarket, even CP cylinders. Just not near the options as the banshee.

Seems some of you with all those post are freakin ya-hoo's. I thought something was up.

Get that bearing on a little more so clip fits. The width is same on stock and +4mil. Nothing should wobble

Slow down dude, your posting this all over the place. Know where your coming from, but give the guys a chance to help first

You gonna need to see what size them jets are! You got air screw at 3.5 turns out? I would suggest a good, very good carb cleaning. This means take carbs completely apart spraying cleaner in every hole or even better soak, then clean with compressed air. Just saying, make sure air filter is clean.

Problem solved if you ask me

You can download a e-manual from this site

Well the choke is suppose to slow air and pull more fuel. After bike starts warming up, don't use choke. To adjust idle, back your screws out so they are not touching slides. when you lift slides with throttle, you should be able to release and both slides give you a clank when they hit bottom of carb. If they do not, then you need some slack in cable. After your sure cable is adjusted properly start adjusting idle with screws

Everybody will tell you not to waste money and/or time with those cheapo stators. OEM or I've seen good things said about a company called racetech. I think thats the right name.

Not saying this is your problem, but a failing stator can be characteristic of your describing. Failure when the stator warms up. Maybe you could check your resistance when stator is cold and check it when stator is hot or if you know someone with a banshee, swap out stator for a test

Short rod is 110mm = 513 wiseco piston Long rod is 115mm = 795 wiseco piston

Kool head is more better

nice work, glad your enjoying it cause you can never get your money back on these things

Could very well be. The piston and rod are different between 86&87,88,89

My axle in banshee is stock. Not sure about axle in 250r, but no way in hell will my banshee hub go on 250r axle. It don't even get to the splines

Not on stock axle?

adjustable timing plate, vforce reed/valve or rad valve(boyensen) gearing for your type of riding, pods vs air box. It goes on and on and on. Have fun

Like this, but I ended up drilling like rappy said in the beginning. The Douglas wheels were easy with good spacing. The stock wheels pain in the ass and look like shit with four sets of two holes right together. when I put a board on a bucket and turn axle to check and see how true they are turning, I'm getting 1/8 to 1/4 difference. Gonna run them and run them hard. Next time axle carrier swap. Thanks

VoOk, link saved. At least that will get the new holes right. Thanks

Axle is larger on 250. what about the banshee drag axle hubs?

Thanks, but I hope there's another solution. I have three sets of wheel/tire combo's for banshee and I would like to be able to swap out with the 250r

Is there a hub or adapter that will let me run my yamaha wheels on a 250r? (rear)

You can download a E-manual from here. You need to see what you are dealing with. If you lean bike/motor over, the ball should roll out. Lean it more and the rod should slide out also. If it doesn't then you have a problem. Good luck