00_Shee

lol you're right, but i may just wait until i need to do the top-end or something before I open her up. Its running pretty good. My luck i'll screw something up. I'm living in a new city and only have a weekend or 2 a month to ride or work on it. I'm even reluctant to remove the damn carbs, they're junk ass Okos and i can't find a rebuild kit other than from Tiawan on ebay. One carb is leaking VERY slightly through the gaskets where the bowel meets the body. After i ride and let it sit, it will have a little bit of oily-gas residue at the seam and if it sits for days the carb will be oily down on the side of the bowel.

Yea, I figured I didnt really need it once i did the compression test. My guess is that my domes are 23cc now. Seems like the cool heads are just pretty pieces right now since the mods i have dont really warrant the NEED for them.

My guess is that it has stock or near stock size domes. Compression test was 125-130psi at +1,300 ft elevation. But what's weird is the guy I bought it from said all he ran in it was Turbo Blue, but that could be him blowing some smoke up my... he's a quad mechanic at a performance/repair shop and said raced this thing in GNCC for a short period of time and said it's "trail" ported to give it more down low and not as much hit up top. Which that IS how it runs, its got pretty good low end compared to other banshee's I've rode and when you get on the pipe it isn't such a drastic hit of power. He gave me the impression that he ported it himself, so who knows really what the hell its got going on in there as far as "porting". I've been running a blend of 93 and Turbo blue and 32:1 (fuel blend: I fill a 5 gallon jug with 3 gallons of 93 and 2 gallons of turbo blue) . I'd get pods, but I forgot to add that its got a Pro Design filter and I run it with the airbox lid off. I appreciate all the replys, I'm looking to do another small upgrade/ weekend-project type of thing, that isn't too expensive. Another quick question, I just did the +4 timing advance over the winter and I'm now living +2,500 ft elevation. I was running slightly rich, will I need to re-jet ? I'm going to have to at least clean these junky Okos, its taking 10-20 kicks to start now, but runs fine once it starts. No clue what size jets its got in it now.

Getting the itch to mod. I have a lightly modded shee I picked up last year. Its got FMF fattys, VF3 reeds, trail ported, +4 timing, 30mm carbs, cool heads, stock bore/stroke hot rod crank. Looking to do something small, like domes. Anyone suggestion dropping to say 21cc domes. Where will I notice gains with the higher compression? I ride trails mostly, but do have lots of open land as well. Yay or nay is it worth the effort? pros and cons?

Pretty sure stock domes; when I checked compression it read ~125-130 each side.

Do you guys think advancing my timing 4 degrees would be worth the effort with the little bit of mods I currently have : bored .30 over, cool heads, oversized rad, 30mm carbs, "trail porting" , VF3 reeds, FMF pipes and silencers. Plus I think it's got a hotrod crank and weiscos(not that they do anything for power).. I ride mostly trails that are hill climbs and small straight stretches. Which to me, a little more low end sounds good. Just curious of your guys thoughts, sry to thread jack OP.

Seems to be running good again for now. I rewired the harness and freshened up the spark plug wires connections. Hopefully this was the solution. Only had time to run it for about 10 mins, but it ran flawlessly once again. Not sure about the ignition coil resistance numbers I was getting? O well. Thanks for all the suggestions guys. This forum has helped out a lot in the little time I've been apart of it.

Has anyone gotten numbers similar to those in my video?

Today when I checked the harness I found a section of my wiring harness that had been touching my silencer and the red/white and green/white wires coming from the stator were melted and slightly exposed and touching the pipe. Hopefully this is the reason to my problems. Also I used a multimeter to check the stator and coil. Here's a video of me testing my ignition coil. I'm not getting readings in the ranges listed in the Clymer. I got numbers that fell within the range of norms when I tested the resistance on the stator and coil pick up. Are these readings I'm getting indicative of a problem with the coil or are these readings wack?

Checked compression; ~125psi each cylinder. Carbs appear to be synced when I look through intake window; not sure what type of plug caps these are. In the process of testing the coil now.

I'm a noob when it comes to these things, especially electrical systems. It looks like I'm going to just start buying a few things, cuz the bible says when you test resistance on a warm engine it may be inaccurate do to increased resistance caused by heat. Any recommendations where to get a stator and coil? eBay has tons and even bundled packages that seem too-good-to-be-true deals for what are probably junk

Yea I'm thinking it's something with ignition, I'm going to have to get a fly wheel puller.

Yes, I actually took the filter off before I started it today and ran it with no filter, then with just the main filter then with the secondary filter, all the same resulted. I don't think there is a tube that connects my carbs because I have aftermarket 30mm carbs and they each have a choke. This is just really weird. It ran fine until I did routine maintenance to prevent things like this as now it's running like crap. Lol

Today I pulled it out of the garage with the old plugs still in it, it fired right up, I ran it until it was warm and started to spit sputter and backfire. I shut it off and quickly put brand new, correctly gapped plugs in. It fired up and started but I could tell it wasn't running right. It started to have the really bad symptoms within 30 seconds again. Pulled the plugs and they looked rich and they were only in the bike for 90 seconds.. Checking the compression and wires when I have time this weekend. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks for your help

Yes I've ran it since I've fixed the orange wire and it ran pretty good. Is it possible that it would it run fine while it was warming up then just go bad if it were the plugs that were fouled? I thought it would run like crap the whole time if the plugs were fouled. If that's the case, I guess I could of over oiled my air filter and now its running rich.