hoppedupandcutdown

No, but the one in my profile did until just last year. I'll get some pics up soon of the new one.

Turning the TORS screw in (clockwise) raises the slide. There is no set starting point. I use the chuck end of a drill bit as a feeler gauge to get the 2 slides equal, then turn both idle screws the same from there. Fluid in the pipes will cause it to not run properly, I don't know how much or how little though. When I've flooded mine it was a considerable amount. Rent a cooling system pressure tester from a O'reilly's or similar parts store to test the cooling system for internal leaks.

All I know is Chariot is made here in the USA by a guy who machines parts for a living, Vitos is made overseas where there is no quality control of the metals being used (on anything) I wouldn't put one in my engine spinning at 10,000 RPM to save $35.96

Octane booster is junk. And it will jack with the plug color. I run 20cc domes on 91 at 1200 ft about the same as you. 300 main should not be rich if you are ported, I'm not ported w/T5s and run 280's and I'm a little rich but don't foul plugs. Most run 32:1 or 40:1. Oil to fuel is not how you determine "rich" Just pick one and stick to it, jet accordingly I'd check the dome cc's for sure and not run smaller than 20cc on 91

You do realize the air and idle screws are 2 separate screws, right? One thread you say you have TORS, the new one says you don't.

Has it been sitting? Both your problems could be gunk in the carbs or nests in the pipes.

Do you know the current jetting? Was it jetted for the Toomey pipes?

To be totally accurate, it is "Cheetah Cub" and "Serval Cub" Most people shorten the name Cheetah Cub to just "Cub" so as not to be confused with the Cheetah, Cheetah DM or Cheetah DMX.

HaHa... been a member since Nov 2020, makes his first post and is called out by a respected OG? What a loser.

And what he means by "OK"... is bullfuckingshit.

every foam filter I've ever had (quads, lawn mowers, air compressors, air conditioners, shop vacs, etc.) has gone to crap too soon. I try to not use them for anything.

What Keno said...Eccentric screw, spring that rides on it and/or sloppy pivot on the shift shaft pawl. easy-peasy. And they are hard to find neutral when running....some harder than others. Grooved clutch basket, etc.

Sealant in the keyway and between the gears?

Rubber choke tube in between the carbs properly?

Nest in the pipe? Fuel in the pipe?

You would think so, but is not consistently the case. This info comes after years of chasing electrical gremlins in all sorts of vehicles.

S

5 notch shorter needles are stock. The long 6 notch ones are not. Those needles have NOTHING to do with fuel leakage. If your machine was jetted for the long needles, it will react differently when you install the short needles.

No one never told you to NEVER open a sealed pressurized cooling system when it is hot? Or add water when still hot?

I don't believe you have your overheating issue resolved yet. One step at a time.

Bad cap, hoses routed wrong, over heating, leaking head gasket. Nothing you said made any sense. Did you open it hot? Did you start with a full reservoir? When filling the radiator did the coolant go immediately to the reservoir? Or after it cooled?

No idea. That's how I post pics. Would really like to see them, considering a hybrid build myself.

And to think, CAMATV teases me about my pics with red circles. See, I'm helpful dammit.

Did it have to proper lock washer? Splines to match the shaft... I've seen many a post and pic where people don't think the nut needs to be tight since it has that folding washer. (and not only self-taught mechanics either)