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seansy007

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seansy007 last won the day on July 4 2021

seansy007 had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    SW Washington
  • Interests
    2stroke/ B.S. racing and repair

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  • My Banshee (optional)
    1998 currently doing frame up build orange frame, black plastics, 5.5 gal tank, 4mill serval making 95hp. fox suspension lsr dc arms, stellar swinger.

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  1. crossover tube between the carbs aswell, check for spark, unplug key and kill switch if there is none a d see if that fixes it. otherwise look through the harness like said befor. dont use starting fluid more than a spray or 2 otherwise ittle wash the bearings of oil. a few drops of fuel and oil in the spark plug hole works well.
  2. Well, I was wrong. it was carb relatated. dropped down to 165s for shits and giggles. bout shit my pants when i took it down the road and it didn't stop spinning the tires till 5th gear. it doesn't seem to be doing it as much anymore. but it did it when the carbs were brand new untouched aswell. maybe the needles just weren't seating in the seats quite perfect.
  3. reving it up in neutral. leaks a couple drops then stops at idle.
  4. probably just gonna buy all new cdi,coil and stator depending on how the talk with cam goes. nothing won't be new on that bike for the most part at that point lol
  5. this is my 4th banshee engine I've built. but first one I've setup with all new parts. others were just rebuilds. rebuilt multiple other bike. I think its electrical, I ran a ground wire from the engine to the coil and no difference. stator tests good, haven't tested coil. but all the electronics sat in a sealed metal job box out in the sun for a week or less when we had to move out for fire danger. thats the only thing I could think would be up as it doesn't seem like its in the carbs as it doesn't change with jetting, or float change.
  6. should also say that the carbs are synced at 0 and 100% throttle. filters are good aswell. passed leakdown test befor and after breakin. head was retorqued after breakin. plugs look good too.
  7. heyo, got a pretty exstensive build that has me scratchig my head it is a 4mill long rod crank with 4mill serval cylinders aggressively dune ported by cam at redline, with his 110 domes. squish is .0478" compression efor breakin was 190psi and 187psi. 35mm pwks with FAST billet bowls, FAST pod filters aswell. vf4's and upp no crossover intakes, dual pingle. shearer sb inframe center mount pipes. +6 timing all oem electrical. new wiring harness from STB and coil/boots were new last year befor build and ran for 1 dune trip. running on strait 110 mixed 50:1 with amsoil dominater. bike bogs/sputters at wot, runs like a bat outa hell in mid and low, also starts first kick. im at 52p 1 clip richer on needle, and 190 mains (I know huge) this bike did the same thing with 175, and 182 mains. I have adjusted the floats till they were bottoming out on the top of the carb befor they shut fuel off. (most amount of fuel possible) they are now reset to within .1mm of factory height. it also leaks fuel out the overflow when at idle or reving it up in neutral. the bike ran amazing last August (when it was mostly stock build) befor I tore it apart to make the build it is now. haven't checked any electrical yet. did close the gap on the plugs to .023 no change. here's a video of it doing its thing I had to put the phone in my pocket to get the video FYI. got more plugs and jets coming on Tuesday I have jets 148 -175 every step and then 180,182,190 and 195 right now. going to talk with cam on Monday hopefully. https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1231560637300138&id=100013386406486
  8. that sucks about them not telling you... when I was building my engine with my good trans that i sent off to have pro mod done by macdaddy, (new shift forks and bearings even though all were fine) i had a tough time down shifting on the bench, looked at it and the only thing i could tell was that there was play in the shift shaft "ears that engaged on the shift star. so i bought a new shift shaft, spring, collar and modded the shift shaft to get more throw, no more problems with shifting down. although I haven't gotten my cylinders back yet from redline so i couldn't tell ya on rideability...
  9. head?pipes? there's a 20 mile long jetting forum on here you could read through in a couple hours, although you got some large carbs for your setup. personally id start at 150 main and 45 pilot. these should be quiet rich as a starting point.
  10. sounds about right to me for 23cc domes...
  11. thats what I thought I needed at first. but had read that i needed 795s for a long rod. thanks. I've got a lead on some if redline doesn't have any thats my main reason for asking. just so I dont get the wrong ones jic
  12. hey yall may be a stupid question but where are you getting your long rod ("driveline 4mill 115 long rod crank " ) 795 series pistons in a 68mm bore? can only find them up to 66mm. reason I'm asking is I got a 4mill serval setup coming from cam at redline and I'm just curios about the pistons because I cant find them anywhere. I did call him but hes a hard guy to get ahold of in the land of covid and stimulus money...
  13. sounds like it was detonating if the sparkplug came apart. why are you running a br7? should be running a br8 or even a 9 on that setup. any detonation on the other piston?
  14. 20-30 deg tend to rub on the shock crossover bar behind the motor but clear pipes like shearers and cpis really well. the more common 10-15deg don't rub on the bar as much but might rub on the pipes. 0deg usually will rub on the pipes but clear everything else.
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