hoppedupandcutdown

Wire in the new lights to the hi beam wire or the low beam wire or both (yellow and green) and black (ground) of course. Although don't expect LEDs to last with the Banshees AC current. Some say they have good look, the vast majority do not. A DC conversion kit, as linked above, is really the way to go.

^^^That^^^ You need way more octane for that setup. And Octane Booster is trash.

I'd love to help here, but don't really know what you're asking?

Could be a plugged jet or passage issue. Or incorrect air jet. Or if the choke is in-op, fuel bowls on the incorrect side

I could tell that by the "L" marked on it. I'd at least use some fine sand paper and off the highs left from that dent.

It's easy. Just go to any OEM parts supplier on the web and search different year Banshees and look at the fiche pics and part numbers.

Warming up the engine in neutral does not warm the trans. (much)

Typical for cold oil to act like that on a wet clutch. In addition to a grooved basket or other slightly worn components. Could simply be clutch adjustment also. That's why most newer bikes and aftermarket clutch levers have a "on the fly" adjustment for when the clutch and oil is hot or cold. Mostly, I say it is normal for it to have a little clutch creep, shouldn't kill it though. One of mine does it though, and I know it's not worn or out of adjustment, I just let it warm up a minute before taking off.

Is it better after it is warmed up?

87-2001 has taillight only. 2002-up had tail and brake light

F.A.S.T Racing in Holton KS charges $60 a hole to bore, hone, chamfer.

I wouldn't trust just any machine shop anyway. I prefer a shop that sells pistons and bores. And has a lot 2 stroke (Banshee) experience. Also, a very recent Facebook post mentioned That Precision Power Sports is closed. (Hopefully someone more in the know here will chime in on that)

Looks like it got dropped. Does it feel out of round in that spot?

What carbs and what jetting are in it now?

Yes, the big screw or knob (depending on the year) on top the TORS box is the idle adjustment. Also, pilot jets are Banshee specific, not all Mikunis are the same.

Stick a broom stick or something in the carb before drilling so you don't hit the opposite side when the bit goes through. Drill carefully as it is stupid soft material and the bit will run through it lickity split. I've seen someone actually bust a bit or tap off in the hole but can't for the life me see how.

*TREKKERS

I suddenly in the mood for a girly drink. Well, not really. I got some Sam Adams in the garage tho. BTW anyone else been watching Twisted Tea stock prices the last 10 days. Missed the boat again.

So you're positive the slides aren't in backwards? What is your elevation in feet?

Maybe your not getting enough air, so it runs better with such a small main, Stock pilots are 25,Sorry I didn't understand your previous post.

I know with an airbox FMFs like a 260 and they recommend a 30 pilot, I for sure wouldn't go any smaller on the main than that....Honestly the 280 should good. What's your elevation?

Those are Mikuni (OEM) COPY carbs. At least use actual Mikuni jets...you should be around 280-300, not knowing your elevation. I looked and Mikuni nor Keihin list a 156, so who knows what you jammed in there.

I unloaded after dark at the dunes one night, sped off right out the trailer not knowing that the vent hose was pinched tight. When the group and I finally stopped on top of a distant dune, I looked down and thought my gas tank was gone. Pulled out a light and it had actually sucked in on itself down inside the side covers to where I couldn't see it. Moral of the story...that engine will one way or another suck in all the fuel it needs. I'd imagine had I went much further it would have eventually starved for fuel though.

He did a removal thread, I'd think reversing the procedure would work to install.

Check that the air pilot jet is indeed a 1.6. A fuel pilot will fit in the hole but have WAY to big a hole to draft fuel for start-up.