hoppedupandcutdown

I run 40:1, either is fine - personal preference.

I'm thoroughly disapointed in myself. I can't seem to formulate a snarky yet witty reply. Very uncharacteristic. I will drink more.

Fairly simple, best to do the bearing, seals and impeller, and even the drive gear, then you know it's all new and good to go for a long time.

Pass a leakdown test? Maybe the left is 10 degrees hotter.

Change it, run it, but keep a close eye on it. Probably water pump seals but could just be condensation. You'll be able to tell real fast with fresh oil.

Post a link to them.

I'm also old, but of the opposite camp. I leave the tank and carbs full. Sometimes up to 6 months. I also put non ethanol fuel in every single thing I own, without exception. I think the only reason not to drain is for moisture attraction, steel tanks being the worst. I'm sure though that there is plenty of residual oil even idling it dry to not cause any damage. I'm sure I've pulled my carbs apart with all the fuel evaporated leaving nothing but oil in the bowl anyway. I say do whatever works for you.

Basically seal off the exhaust and intake with some plumbing and a low pressure gauge and air valve. Pressurize to 6 psi and if it doesn't hold, start spraying soapy water. Ebay has them from several good people, or look at the pics and head off the the hardware store and make one if you're handy.

Did you do a leak down test before you pulled it apart? Sounds more like an air leak on the left side.

Did you remove the actuator and visually inspect it?

It sounds like it wasn't adjusted properly either time, it wouldn't weld or not disengage otherwise.

Been alot of nice duner type 4mil and 421s for sale lately in the $4500 range. To build expect well North of 10 grand.

I'm running almost the exact same set-up, but 20cc domes and 1500 ft elevation. Wouldn't think I'd go any smaller on the main if I were you. Clean and re-oil the filter maybe? (careful not to over-oil.)

Switch the spark wires and see if the problem changes side, that will test the wires and plug caps. Also check your pick-up coil gap and wiring to it. If it was sitting apart for a while, make sure their is no nest in the right pipe. Might also see if the right pipe has fuel in it (flooded).

What in world does "original banshee cylinders remanufactured from a very trusted seller on Ebay" even mean?

If he had raw coming out of the pipe, it was flooded. Won't fire if the case or pipe is flooded, even just one side. Flooding might not be the initial problem, need to find out why, but still.

The gear is in the valley of the star Post a pic of what you have Stars are cheap.

That's a lot of fuel, sure you're not compensating for an air leak?

They were factory on MANY Yamahas and Hondas. Probably before you were born then.

I always recommend using the same premix and ratio as the previous owner, but it isn't imperative. Your elevation and temp would play a part in recommending proper jetting. That being said, 300 main and 27.5 pilot should be close. It's easier to give advise if you would tell us what is in it and what leads you to believe it would need to be changed. And, No, a plug chop is never necessary.

10mm X 1.25 Be real careful, the rear ones are simply a square nut captured in a flimsy cage. If the tap sticks you can break the nut loose inside and be screwed.

post a link to the carbs you bought.

Vehicle Identification Number (V.I.N.) The 10th digit, more specifically.

A 2006 will have a 9" diameter wheel. A 10" wide wheel will have a center offset. Just turn the wheels you have valve stem in. Done.