Zillaguy

For a trail cut, nothing really fancy, just something that shifts good... he also said to switch back to my stock shift-star.. LOL Anyone need a cascade shift-star?

$150.00

Just talked to Tyson, droppinh off my trans Saturday morning.

Not sure on Banshee's... But I know for a fact when using ARP head studs on a race engine for a car, you don't torque the studs... You thread them in until they are seated lightly and then torque the nuts properly (using moly-grease to reduce friction)... Because if the head stud is torqued too tight and you torque the nut, it WILL remove the threads from your engine block!

I thought a cut trans was an over-ride? I have only been messing with Banshees for 2 years, bear with me.. If thats the case that I can run a cut trans in the woods.. Tyson is not that far from my house..

You didn't notice it because the old pads were glaze matched to the rotor. Once you get out and ride it, the new pads will break in, and that will stop. It happens on cars ALL the time.. A couple hard stops and it glazes back up, dragging noise gone. I literally do 5 brake jobs a day, on average. Some days more. LOL

X4 throw it away... The scrap yard might give $0.25 for it! LOL

4mil long rod, 65.00mm bore, 20cc domes, aggressive dune port. Is a cut trans trailable? I have heard of people having issues in the trail..

I was going to do it because I already split the cases, and disassembled my main and countershafts for inspection.. I'm going to do the straight cuts though, because I already got a complete hinsons clutch set-up for it (Basket, inner hub, pressure plate, chariot clutch pusher, barnett fibers and steels) and think straight cuts are the way to go..

NGK B8EGV vs. BR8ES.... Go......

I use Klotz Flex Drive in my transmission, it is designed for 2-stroke powered racing transmissions. Clean carbs, bleed brakes, clean and lube chain, mix your fuel at 32:1 for the first tank, change plugs (i use B8EGV no resistor, there are no TV's or radios in the woods! LOL) clean or replace airfilter, change coolant, put an in line fuel filter on it, there might be some junk in the tank. Last but not least check tire pressure... You live in MI are you going to Bundy Hill, or The Mounds?

I already have a modded shift star, and modded shift shaft.. I am going to use this to round out my shifting mechanism.. I like Mull parts and this was $20 cheaper than the Shift Pro.. I also heard that the lighter spring on the Shift Pro cause a popping out of gear condition? Is that true? The only issue I can see happening with this Mull kit would be if the bearing breaks up into pieces... I remember these bearings from my RC car days, they work awesome right up until they grenade! LOL With this 4mil i'm building i'm going to need all the shifting help I can get, and I don't want to cut my transmission. I'm also thinking about the billet 2nd gear set, and straight cuts form RDZ.

Yeah... I was just going off the quality of their other products. I like the idea of the bearing... The "Shift Pro" doesn't look like it has a bearing.

this is the link http://www.mullengineering.com/sc/store.php/products/yamaha-banshee-shift-detent-bearing-mod

I just bought this kit and was wondering if anyone has used it yet, and how well it works/lasts..

the ASI works awesome! I run one... You can't beat the price either... Just be glad it's not a LT500R Quadzilla that one cost me $500.00!

Nice piece! I have a question for you.. How do you like your Alba a-arms? Do your Delrin bushings suck? One season on mine and they are loose as hell! I'm making a set out of brass, so i don't have that problem any more..

Someone did something to them, because they would be painted black inside and out.... But it doesn't look like a port job, just an attempted clean up.

The Copper spary gasket is awesome... When I do head gasket jobs on cars that use MLS (Multi-layer steel) head gaskets it is an absolute must or you will have leaks.. I use it on all metal gaskets.

Banshee frames are slightly offset, i didn't notice it until I restored mine last year... I thought the same thing with a set of FMF golds the left and right pipes are shaped differently, it looks like two different styles of pipes but are not..

Its not that big of a deal, the port job is worth what I paid.. I have a Bridgeport, and have already bored/honed the cylinders got them to clean up at 65.00mm, still a very faint scratch, but it's my trail bike and i'm going to run it.. I was going to change the pistons and rings anyway, just didn't want to bore the cyls... Got a brand new in the box hotrods crank 4mill 115rods for doing 4 ball joints on 04 F-350 Superduty... So it's not all bad! Someone who doesn't have access to the equipment that I do may be pissed, but for me It's an hour of work, so again no big deal..

The port job and the left cylinder look good,but.... The right cylinder looks like the cir-clip came out and gouged the cylinder wall, well past the ring sealing area at the top of the cylinder.... So, the cylinders are not useable as they are.. They both need to be bored, and I need to buy new pistons. With depth of the gouges in the cylinder wall they are going to have to be bored to 65.50mm to clean them up, the gouges measure .032" deep. Did the motor seize?

Spin it with an impact gun. I have an Ingersoll Rand 2135 Titanium 1/2" impact, it's 1000ft/lbs in reverse @100psi it will definitly break that bolt free, or spin the bearings in the swingarm lol! DO NOT heat it, it will change the temper of the steel the swingarm is made out of, weakening it.. As far as getting the bearings out go talk to your local Snap-On tools dealer, and buy Part# A78 Pilot Bearing Puller.. It works AWESOME on swingarm bearings and wheel bearings, or any other bearing that is pressed into a bore. Or if you don't care about the swinger, use an Oxygen/Acetelene cutting torch and cut swinger pivot in half and pull it out in 2 pieces.

do you still have the front shocks?