Zillaguy

If you go to www.bikebandit.com you can look at the Yamaha parts diagrams and there are part numbers too.. Just go there and look up OEM parts for whatever year banshee you have... You don't have to buy from them, but it's nice to look up your own parts, so you can make sure they are the correct parts.

Yamaha dealer

Yes, definatly matched cases.

The reason you use Anti-seize is because stainless bolts don't like high vibration conditions. They have a tendency to gall the threads when removed form something that has alot of vibration.. I have restored a couple old Maico dirt bikes and a few RM400's and RM465's I found out the hard way about not using anti-seize with SS bolts, that broke off in a frame that is not available anymore.. I anti-seize all SS bolts now.

LOL that'd be awesome!

Imapct is the easiest way to loosen and tighten that nut... Just be careful not to over tighten it, just a couple small burps w/the impact and it will be tight.

How are your reeds? Broken, or chipped? Are you getting spark on the right cyl? The motor could have ingested water, hydro-locked the right cyl, and caused the crank to twist, water doesn't compress. Take it in and have the indexing checked, if it's off have it indexed and welded.

Apparently I did! lol

If they are leaking out the overflows more than likely the needles and seats are wore out.

Port work dollar for dollar is the best mod you can do if your into the engine that far, a coolhead, and some VF3's or 4's. That would make a stout machine on stock cyls. Don't over bore unless you have to, you can't put bores back, and you only get a few..

How many cc's will my engine be with a 58mm stroke and a 64.5 mm bore? Just bought a set of 4mil cyls, and want to know what my cc's will be.. Looked on google how to calculate it, but I failed Algebra..I came up with 37902XX.XXX I know that isn't right! LOL

Thanks man, can't wait to build my motor!!!!!

And don't spray ether into a 2 stroke motor, EVER! It burns too quick and hot, causing all the oil to be burned off the cyl. walls, then you have no lube on the piston or cyls... Kinda of like a dry start..

Buy a billet carrier with tapered bearings you'll never have to replace them again.. They are about $180.00, but well worth the money.. Not to mention they look dope as hell!!!

The purpose of the spacer is to keep the bearings from collapsing in on eachother... Without the spacer there is nothing to stop you from overtightening it... When the axle nut is torqued properly the spacer hits the inner races of both bearings stopping them from collapsing... Best thing to do is get rid of the stock carrier and buy a billet one with TAPERED roller bearings... They are way stronger, and will out last the stock type bearings by far. The only difference in set up, is you have to set the preload on the bearings, like a wheel bearing on a truck or old RWD car.

make one

forgot to say.. it happens because cold air is denser, than warm air, and has more oxygen content.

x2^^^^^^^^^ 2 strokes DO NOT like lean!! It will melt a piston in a hurry, more times than not on the exhaust side.. Winter riding always gets kicked up one jet size main&pilot..

^^^^No shit!! lol ^^^^^ Stock pipes??? That makes no sense..

which site sponsor? I'm new this site.

Alot of people are saying 4 mill w/stock cyls.... I think that sounds the best for this build... I have a set of used stock cyls (.050 over, 65.25mm I think) that I got for basically free. Who should I use in Michigan to do the stroker porting? Would this be a good base kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-BANSHEE-DRAG-4MM-STROKER-KIT-CRANK-PISTONS-6600-/140922071895?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20cf9c2b57&vxp=mtr I'm not going to use the spacer, but it seems most of the parts are there... Minus domes, a port job, and correct base gaskets, to get my squish within spec.

I have always done my own port work.. You don't need to go radical on them to get power... Start out small (i.e casting clean up, knife edge transfer ports, and intake bridges, polish the exhaust port to a mirror finish, make the main intake port rough, to keep the fuel air charge "tumbling" which keeps the fuel atomized.) If you want radical take it to someone who has done it more than once.. Cyls aren't cheap!...

Do you think it won't be trailable? Do the motors have overheating probs? Or are they just finicky?

Looking for a 115 rod crank, but thanks for the offer man! This site is pretty sweet, alot of helpful people, some bad mouthers, but that is to be expected on the intrawebs! LOL I usually just ignore those people!

I forgot you can't bore Nikasil cyls.... I should have remembered that from my snowmobiles. my ZR800 had chrome bores, when it was ready I did a D&D 1050cc big bore to it. The sled is stupid fast, I can't keep the ski's on the ground, it made it very un-trailable.