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by chance did u check float height and needle and seat. bypass or remove any fuel filter for now just to rule that out

no way in hell i would pay 500bones for someone else to sort it out. i wouldnt even pay 50 but thats just me. youll figure it out sooner or later and being a auto mechanic gives u some knowledge that will be pertinant. i would of guessed electrical problem but u said u ruled out every possible electrical component. pull head off and look around is what i would do at this point. take a few measurments of stuff and see if anything seems odd. i dont believe your cyl pressure in itself has anything to do with it

most likely the last person used a impact gun on the nut and this is the end result. if u do get the flywheel off i would check everything real good with dial indicator since the crank snout now looks like hamburger. personally i would probly put it in the scrap like tricked said. next time put small bit of grease or something an the shaft and only tighten the nut to what the book says with torq wrench

wow i would have loved to see that 80% bike in action . bunch of secret squirell shit no doubt. lol

ive seen cylinders get hung up because the dowel recess in the cylinder bottom was machined off center. he said the tops looked good with a straight edge so i didnt think to mention it.

the way i understand is there was a leak. he took it apart and copper sprayed a new gasket. now he claims there seemed like pressure in the rad after 3hrs. which makes no sense because the system wouldnt hold pressure for 3hrs if there was a leak back into the cylinder. imo sounds like this dude hasnt a clue and needs some assistance

wow thats alot of work without knowing if theres even a leak. autozone open to 9pm every day. figured he would got it pressured up by now

before taking a bunch of shit apart check it with a cooling system tester from auto zone loaner tools. honestly should of probly done this right away after rebuild

get out with that nonsense. good math has no place around here

u would run home to mom if i said how much oil i mix in

peeps b speakin way outside their scope of expertise and claud givin free reality checks buwahahaha

jt just got OWNED.....again.....for da 100th time

remember what pops used to say. want somethin done right gotta do it yourself

what happened to da clutch cover he was spose to make. it looked decent. maybe give da cad files to claude

honestly i would see if one of these guys will trade u a stock box for that dyna. spark adv is directly tied into egt and without a way to look at egt i dont see any point to the dyna. thats just me though. or else just put it on the stock setting and leave it be lets see some pics of the head,piston tops and rods. im with blowit. i think it was caused by compressing something that wasnt very compressable.

there was no base gasket and maybe head was shaved to much. lets the head and piston top.

forged sparkplugs

its pretty well documented what the ball park consumption between gas and methanol is . and if u know how, u can also calculate it yourself based on airdensity , engine size and a few other factors

depending if your tuned alittle rich or alot rich, fuel consumption is some where around 2-2.5x of gas. so u can see why standard gas components dont work very good. bowls, float valves etc

another thing is the original float valve wasnt intended to flow the amount of methanol needed. billet bowls will likely help u. the stock bowls dont have shit for capacity. between the small bowls and the float valve, that could be your problem as well

maybe its not the pumps fault. pull the lines off the carb and put em in a bottle and start the engine. your likely to have some premix in the suction line no matter what. its just that youll probly have more if the entrance is on the floor since the back of the reed cavity is where excess fuel oil seems to collect. maybe your pj is clogged. hard to say pumps have their place and time. like on machines that run upside down, on their side and near vertical conditions. snomos and watercraft come to mind. but really have no place on a atv imo. the only exception i could think of is the long 300' bikes where the tank is located in the nose and the fuel has to be pulled up to the carbs again i would get rid of that setup u have now. just me though. local classifieds, ebay or the f/s area should have what u need

either one will be fine but r50 will be a bit cleaner for powervalve engines and such. r50 will only mix with gas however, where as supertech mixes with gas, alcohol and nitromethane. if your a trailrider u may get a fair bit of spooge as the flashpoints are very high

i would keep a eye on the f/s section and ebay for gravity carbs then throw that current setup in the bushes. who ever had the bike previously must of got them carbs for free. other wise theres no explanation why a reasonably compotent person would do such a thing

meh i'd go with old milwaukiee

thats odd. if it worked so well i figured u would of been tooting the horn long time ago. all i hear is crickets