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maybe try arb head studs. possibly the head is lifting up

if u milled the head maybe the oring groove is to small now

stay with 8cup unless u got cain powa then 14 or 16 no prob

tighten the head nuts first. then tighten cyl nuts after. this will keep the head flat to the cyl top

theres alot of different gasket makers. some no i wouldnt use on any part of a engine. some are specific for engine components. i dont know which one your refering to specifically ? many of the 3bonds are exactly for engines. as is honda bond and yamabond. as is several of the toyota 3bond sealers. permatex ultra black is some what of a all purpose and works well on engine cases. your over thinking it bud

there is no correct sealer for the job. probly atleast 8 different kinds will all do just the same. ive tried no less than 3 kinds and never any problems

if u want to know the truth. theres alot of sealers that will work just the same. ive used several kinds with no problem even after many yrs. permatex ultra black, optimum grey, motoseal, red and copper likely would work. 3bond has quit a few that will do the job. yamabond. honda bond. toyota has several that work which are made by 3bond. i dont care for the thin ones like motoseal or honda bond but its just preference. as long as it has some chemical resistance it will work.

u might of been a hair rich before going to the oxy stuff which put u just right afterwards

the oxygen percent is probly fairly low so just go up a jet or two and u be fine.

personally i wouldnt use them on a gas engine. i like pwk or mikuni so u can adjust each circuit. but they r good for dumping alot of fuel with no regard for anything else.

home depot sells shelves

gonna b rollin on dubs?

jfc does he make only 5 sets a year? just call shear and be done wit it

wheres it leaking ? if u can get a tig torch to it then it likely could be welded unless its totally corroded out

u wont go wrong with prox. the wossner are probly good also

first off u measure near the piston bottom and its usually alot more than 1thou bigger than the top. if your numbers r correct , which i have my doubts, u have 7thou piston clearance which is a bit on the high side. 20thou ring gap is a bit high also. new stuff would b around 3thou clearance and 12thou gap

the gears and bearings wont care what u put in there. clutch action might be a bit better with some oils though

kens templates r dope

probly sold it and bought pontoon boat

how da hell did u strip it? https://www.timesert.com/

seems like ive reused cr5 metal head gaskets with alittle fipg and it worked fine. with 2cylinders the top decks have to be flat across the whole plane. im thinking you torqed the cylinders first and one was a bit crooked which made the head gasket leak. next time try dropping the cylinders on the case but dont tighten the nuts yet. put the head on and fully torq it. then torq down the cylinders. from my experience, metal gaskets work just as well as orings but no matter what head u use, the top decks have to be flat to each other

if your only rebuilding back to stock u could use hotrods but i would pull off the generic taiwan bearings and use the yamaha ones or nsk,skf etc. yamapartsnation.com has stock cranks for $418 and about $25 shipping which is probly your cheapest option

alot of da old skool ballerz hangout on planetsand

using the impeller to turn it sounds about right from what i recall. you might have 2 seals in there im not sure. how old is everything ? those parts rarely go bad but it might be worth installing new bearing and seal for piece of mind

there will be some resistance turning the shaft because the seals and maybe a tight fit of the bearing. from old memory of different bikes i took apart it seems like they could still turn by hand. been a while since i taken that stuff apart though