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zilla theres no point in getting numbers down to the nats ass because its irrelevant in this discussion. .75 is aproximate guess based on what i know other pingel valves will flow. point is, dual pingel flow rate is far beyond what his engine will require, assuming his cap is free flowing. thus making the float valve the bottle neck. hows them ti rods working out ? complete failure or .......

u can drill more holes or enlarge the existing ones or do both

if his pingel has 5/16 outlets its probly around .75gal per min each outlet which far exceeds what the engine will consume. IF theres a restriction it would be in the float valve. u can modify it to pass more fuel if u know what your doing

his plugs are coming out. pistons probly look like theyre jack hammered. rod bearings likely taking a severe beating. turn timing up a few more notches

why would u put the timing at 10. makes no sense. put it at 0-4 but no higher. then get the carb tuning under control. adjust timing as needed after u get the carb sorted out.

im sure Brandon is a lot better at math than us. atleast a lot better than me. imo this method leaves to much room for error for the normal joe unless your efficient with numbers. not only that but finding deck height accuratly isn't the easiest thing, especially if the pistons in the hole. and getting the piston dome angle or height can be a challenge as well. now if your familiar with the particular engine components and know all their relevant values then its just simple arrithmatic but starting from scratch on a unfamiliar engine can be a real pain to figure out this shit. ya its less messy than oil but if you get a couple numbers wrong then u spend forever going in circles to sort it out lol

this is good advice for everybody not just noobs. set timing at 0, get engine running good then adjust timing accordingly. other than maybe losing alittle power, theres really no ill affects of too little spark lead . on other hand, to much spark lead can cause all kinds of problems. i guess it just sounds cool to say you have boat loads of spark adv measuring with oil was always easiest for me. its almost idiot proof as long as u can find tdc. i might do it a different way if i were better at math

thats not how u do it. its full swept volume+head volume/ head volume. but u cant use 21cc because thats flat plate volume. thats why i said pour oil in. otherwise u have to know piston deck height and how much dome radius u got

none of this story makes sense. he does a badass portjob then sends it to some guy for assembly then returns asking what gas

its easiest just pour oil in the plug hole then theres no guessing

i guess u could use jb. all the plug does is seal the hole so oil doesnt go out and dirt go in. it doesnt hold the shaft in like the other guy said. whatever u use to glue it in, i would put it on the plug so the excess spooges to the outside when u push in the plug. just push it until its flush with the case

the plug is supposed to be a press fit but your case is probly wallered out. glue it in with rtv or something.

dont be offended by da machinist comment. its just that me and probly alot of other folks learned the hard way not to assume anything. if i was a pro machinist i could careless if people double check my work. heaven forbid something funky slipped out the door its better to b caught early.

now days i never assume anything. i never assume the machinist did everything right. i never assume ring ends wont need a touch of grinding. measuring tools are pretty cheap on ebay then u know fo sho its good

normally u measure the piston at the bottom of the skirt perpendicular to the pin. sounds like u measured at the pin. your numbers are likely a few thou smaller because the piston is tapered like a cone or egg. I would measure again just to be sure u really do need bigger pistons. but if so then just go to 65mm and bore/hone accordingly AFTER u have pistons in hand. ya everyones uncle is a master machinist but just double check for your own piece of mind

honda book says service limit of 17 pins 10.20" 259mm

the number stamper on the top is only the nominal diam. actual diam is usually a few thou smaller. hard to say why u have a discrepency. get some measuring tools and check for yourself. i dont trust nobody to measure my shit

that link appears to be for +4 domes so they wont work on yours. im not very familiar with blaster pistons but ill assume they just offset the longer rod but whether its a exact offset i dont know. call noss and say your bore, 54stroke, 115rod, blaster pistons. they shouldnt need anymore info than this, as long as your not using anything funky like thicker than normal base gaskets or something. im sure they made hundreds of these domes

if u get careless with sealer it spooges into the port runners

65l should last a few seasons if u purge after riding but why not keep it simple and use gravity system if u can

claude rc fuel uses methanol to be more specific

its nitromethane. look at the cas# on the sds. 75-52-5. 1-3% isnt even worth screwing with

website says 1-3% which isnt barely anything

get away from these things fast as u can . they barely worth pennies on the dollar after u spend your lifes savings. practically cant give em away