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yes indeed but why put the cart 100miles in front of the horse. logical thinking can prevent a few fuk ups. even before grinding up some niche I would spend alittle time on some unusuables. make a quick template on paper and trace it to the bore wall. spend a weekend, week, month, whatever it takes, and go through the motions. but in the end he'll have to decide when its time to proceed forward spacers can be good but they have their time and place. this isn't the time or place imo raising the exh to make it bigger isn't equivalent to having 3 ports. fyi

moe you seem lost. why not tinker with some junk parts before you make a cobbled mess of your good stuff

sort of but not really. you can read 100 books how to weld but if you have no welder of your own then what good is it. tss is useless to most people since they cant do anything with it

depends who your friends are

ill take it. lmk

looks like one of them vitos. i wouldnt pay $2 for that cheese dick roller bearing with the riveted brass cage

few things. theres a brass bushing right behind the seal. if its worn the shaft will flop around more than normal. put clear tape over the shaft splines when you put in a new seal or you can gouge the seal lips. check the shaft straightness with a straight edge. could be a number of things. shouldn't be overly complicated to figure out

muffler is probly 150f hell i never checked but maybe thats why stickers burn off. what other explanation could there be. theres my contribution. i solved the sticker mystery

jfc look what this site has become haha

how much extra $ is real welds

if you want shit done on your terms you have to do the work yourself

i just use a protractor tool and bend the clip to the desired angle

when I got my first stock banshee I thought it was a turd on take off just like the OP is saying. had to rev it quit a bit and feather the clutch. 2 small cylinders that have very little torq at low rpm and a heavy ass bike make for a bad combo.

you have to remember these bikes are way over 300lb and less than 40hp so they might seem a bit sluggish on take off, especially if your used to light weight singles. i felt the same when i first got a banshee.

use craiglist search engines. alot of people with bikes dont bother with forums

you can make alittle template without much trouble but i found it faster and easier to bend a paper clip and use that

moe when your talking a 30hp engine, almost anything you do inside the cyl will give more power so don't pat yourself on the back to much LOL. read some more books. practice on a few junks cyl and don't ever get to big for your britches and think you have a halfway understanding whats going on inside there because its rather complex. a lot of it I don't understand and Ill admit it. about the funell affect, I believe theres a specific ratio, although I don't recall what it is, between the runner entrance and window, once you exceed this ratio the air speed no longer increases. example, you make the entrance 4x larger than the window, the airspeed may not be any more than if the entrance was only 1.5x larger than the window. so don't blindly hog out the runners. another thing is the mixture has mass, momentum etc. if you have your front and rear transers out of balance the rear charge can try to push the front one toward the exh before the spent gas is flushed from the comb chamber. this is especially a problem to watch out for if the rear trans aim directly across to the opposing side of the cylinder like stockers

when you deal with cylinders this old your bound to see plenty of crazy ideas that people have tried over the years. ive seen intake bridges completely removed among other stuff even more strange than that

what im saying is if the runner is eqaul or diverges a hair i wouldnt be concearned.

it should be fine even if the cross sectional area of the runner is equal to the window because the piston is partially covering the window most of the time anyways. like putting a finger on a garden hsose and varying how much you cover it. if the runner diverges slightly may still be fine also since like I said before the piston blocks da window most the time anyhow rather than make the exh roof flat as possible your best bet is add addition exh ports if you have the meens. theres good reason why monoports went out of style 25yrs ago. mcdaddy gave a good demonstration in the dyno section

i would do a 66x58 drivline cylinders

im not sure what your excuse is but any tuner worth a grain of salt 'should' know the importance of a efficient and well designed cooling system and its components. manufacturers haven't always got it right, nor have a lot of the aftermarket companies, so some hard core guys have went as far as to change the water routing and GPM pumped through the mtr. a lot can be said about cooling the mtr as much as possible. since plenty of folks show up here with eroded pistons, this should be something to pay attention to

zilla quit googling shit u know nothing about. your FI failed, the titanium rod has empirically failed so dont even bother making one. give it up already

keep in mind zilla gets alot of info from wikipidia (whos accuracy is suspect at best since it can be edited) rather than actual research papers

thats some google bullshit that doesnt pertain to 2stroke