sstaton1983

look in the for sale section and swap shop.

Check your float level.

Your still in stock carb territory. Switch it to alky.

what do you got?

When i buy a craigslist special I remove the reeds and pipes to get good look at the pistons and porting. Note what jets are in the carbs. compression test and leak down test. Also i cant help but pull the clutch cover to see if theirs any goodies inside.

I have seen some cut up and modified that ran good. Old school, Im looking for some for a j arm bike Im starting to build.

I would continue to chase jetting when the top end needs rebuilt...................NOT

Miss is on left side not right. Check main jet maybe its loose in the bowl, that would cause your problem. And sound like the top end needs freshend up compression is low.

any thing under 100 psi, in my opinion is done. I have seen banshee cylinders on the original bore so worn and egged out they had to be sleeved. Low compression is a warning sign that you need to tear down and investigate why and what is out of spec.Remove the pipes and see if the piston skirt is melted or grooved out. Oh and every banshee i have ran with low compression wouldnt idle for sh.t and got harder and harder to start.

You change the compression ratio by milling the stock head, or changing the dome in an after market head. decreasing the area above the piston at top dead center will yield the higher compression. you only want to bore to get the cylinder back to round instead of oval.If you add a 4 mill crank you will need to have the cylinder ported to take full advantage of the extra stroke. As for exhaust, the fmf's are a trail pipe with low to mid curve. CPI is a drag pipe, or top end pipe. the fmf responds decent to porting.but their is alot better.

"Yea there good and lined up. Is it a specialty balance machine or will one for a automobile work? I have acess to a plain one at the dealership. " The one at my dealership will not.

The post said my banshee does 80 in 5th gear but shakes violently in 6th..................NOT

So from what i got from all that, It runs great as long as you run stock timing. Does it have a stock timing plate or adjustible? If the symptoms start when you play with the dyna tech switch I would have to say the problem is in that area and not in your carbs, or air leak. STOCK CDI FTMFW

pump gas? That's 5 over what my passion port made with cpi's. Damn good numbers.

They work well on stockish motors. I ran them on a 4 mill stock cylinder with good results.

That sucks, you got ripped off. I bet the seller knew it had a worn out crank. that makes the $3500 a little steep.

I want a big bore kit in my big bear

Most sand drag bikes are geared for 300 feet. So tires and some extra sprockets should get you going.

So it's rich and fouling plugs?? But it runs better when you induce a rich condition??

They looked alot like rockets. I let them go with A 4 mill passion port that I sold a while back. They were to big for anything i had at the time.

i would fuck with the gearing way before running BB pipes on a small motor. I ran some grr in frame drag pipes on my wifes 350 ported and it was very weak out of the hole and very narrow power band.

I agree i cut up mine and left the middle support. i couldn't tell much of a diff with my butt dyno, I ended up with v force.

What fouled it in the first place? start with compression check and pull the bowl and make sure a jet didn't come loose. And if your not sure always do a leak down test, I do one before every ride and then pull over every 15 minuets and do another.

You should try the QUAD FLOW TORQUE WING. lmao. Alot of people cut up the stock cages for more cfm. Im not sure about real world hp increases and if it is 3-4 hp that's more then likely peak and not across the curve like vf4s.

I ran the chariots on a 4 mill passion port, They worked well. I couldn't really tell a diff going to vf3s. The vf4s are supposed to be better everywhere on the curve.