pondtunes

It can also make them harder to start.. I recently set mine and it made a world of difference starting my shee. No more kicking the shit out of it to fire, I can stay sitting down and just a slow push gets it going.. Since both plugs fire at the same time I would say there would have to be a serious difference in the two bumps on the flywheel to cause it to fire on one and not the other!

Pull your stator cover and check the gap between the little bumps on the flywheel and the pickup, should be no more than the thickness of a matchbook cover. I just recently adjusted mine and I don't even have to kick it very hard i couldn't believe the difference it made. I can crank her sitting down with no problem at all just a gentle push on the kickstarter and shee fires right up!

Theres a black wire running to the headlights that is a ground, this ground also runs to the keyswitch but if the switch isnt connected it doesent have any bearing what-so-ever on the operation of the headlights.. If the headlight ground is bad they shouldn't illuminate at all... Do they get brighter when you rev the engine? Is your high beam/low beam switch very hot? Does changing from high to low affect it at all? Double check the round plug that leads up to the killswitch/headlight switch and make sure its not loose, failing that Either the lighting side of your stator isn't producing much voltage or it's being dissipated somewhere as heat! The headlight switch or wires would be quite hot if this was the case. take a look here: http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/elecfaq.html theres a wiring diagram on that page that shows the basic layout and connections of the banshee electrical system.

And surely he realizes that we run 30 weight oil or automatic tranny fluid in our banshee transmissions and not gear oil.... Right?

Okay so we went out riding and camping over the weekend and had some great fun. But I've run into a sticky throttle which I think im going to blame on the insane amount of dust that was out there this weekend. We were riding trails and jumping hills and such when I went over one and when I landed the shee revved to the moon and damn near ran away from me. My bro in law was following me as I almost endoed the bike getting it stopped where i locked the front and back brakes and dumped the clutch.. It didn't happen exactly like that again but it was not fun at all having it rev to the moon after landing a jump! I haven't had a chance to tear it down yet but im suspecting the insides/tops of my carbs have somehow injested some of this trail dust and caused them to stick.. Any other thoughts?

Lol so it is! I stand corrected, the frankestien of a quad still sucks though lol

"my fault for not being clear......here's what i tried....throttle completely closed i adjust the left cylinder....it revs and de-revs like it should.....then on the right side, when i adjust it, there is no change b/c its not firing at closed throttle.....for instance, if i idle the right side down at closed throttle wait a second and the rev it, the cylinder kicks on then dies....then i'll idle it up at closed throttle w/ no change, wait a second then rev it and it fires up but idles WAY too high and stays firing until i idle it back down to a certain point then it dies...basically, the right side cylinder will not idle at all at lower than 1/4 throttle or if i have the idle adjusted really high" Hmmm this sounds a lot like a problem I had, my left bank was running fine, the right bank I could never get adjusted right.. I had a fuel elbow that was really loose on the carb to the point it would pop out sometimes and pour fuel on top of the case. Anyways despite trying to patch that up I ended up buying a set of carbs with the TORS removed since the elbow wasn't a servicable part. Once I got rid of the TORS the right side behaved exactly like the left, the carbs were easy to adjust.. There are a few threads on here about how much of a bitch it is to adjust your carbs with the TORS installed, and getting it to mine to properly was also a big pain in the butt. Before I removed the TORS mine was idled really high to keep it running it would idle sometimes then other times die randomly.. It probably isn't the TORS preventing the cylinder from firing its more like the inability to adjust the carbs because of the TORS System. You can eliminate those bulky boxes up there with a TORS removal kit or buy a set of carbs already set up without it. If everything is synched, you've switched plug wires, and that right hand slide isn't sticking, and the carbs are clean you can probably blame the TORS box up there. You might check just to see that the right hand slide isnt sticking, when you rev it up. TORS gets blamed for tons of stuff hehe but for the most part only good can come from getting rid of it.

The TORS is designed to cut spark if it detects the throttle is released and the slides are not closed... HOWEVER; The banshee only has a single coil, and both plugs fire at the same time thus if the TORS was causing you to lose spark it would affect both cylinders. Although you should remove the TORS I don't think this is a TORS issue. "(when adjusting the idle for the left, it revs and de-revs like it should..right side, there is no change noticed unless i rev past 1/4 throttle....then when i let off, right side cylinder shuts off again)," Your idle knobs/screws should be set the same on both sides for the most part. You also should only adjust the idle with the engine warmed up. Lastly it takes a few seconds for idle adjustments to kick in. Perhaps I misunderstood the last sentence but how are you adjusting the idle at 1/4 throttle? your throttle should be closed when adjusting the idle.... 1) did you put new plugs in it? Try changing the plugs or swapping the cylinders they are in to see if the problem moves. 2) have you cleaned your carbs? Especially the pilot jet, as it's responsible for idle to 1/4 throttle. 3) are your carbs synced?? When you open the throttle BOTH slides need to move at exactly the same time, theres a nut on top of the carbs/tors for adjusting this. There's also a tool available but you can do it by sight/feel.. Have a helper slowly open the throttle to verify that they're both moving at the same time then snap the throttle open a couple times you should hear ONE click when the slides close not two.

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/rvs/1690841418.html Lol! They took a blaster, blew the motor up i guess then shoved a honda engine in it and now its a hot rod.....

Just because im on a very tight time schedule, i found one from NYUK.. Please let troy get this stator if he still needs it thanks alot troy for the opportunity just haven't heard back from 400 yet! It's all yours!

Got a stator on the way! Thanks NYUK!

Damn troy you rock man! I owe you big time

Still hunting a stator!

' if this stator doesn't work out i am desperate for one! need shiping to salisbury, nc 28147 funds in hand!

Okay guys, im in a real bind here, I cant find anyone local with a stock stator or any stator that will fit for that matter... I'm supposed to leave friday at noon for a weekend camping/riding trip and im dead in the water without a stator! If you have one with or without an adjustable timing plate I need it shipped to salisbury, NC 28147 BY thursday!!! Please let me know if you've got one available!!!

Okay looking more i have an OL condition between the red & green wires which tells me my ignition coil is shot. I also didn't get much of a reading on the lighting coils either, something like .01 ohms and when kicking it it appears to be putting out about .05 volts using the max/hold feature on my meter. After reconnecting the stator wires and turning a headlight so I could see it I don't see the lights trying to glow either when I kick it hard. This tells me the lighting coils are shot as well... Do these typically both fail when a stator goes? I'm under the impression that they are two entirely different circuits on the stator. My pickup coil checks out within spec. I have a alternator/generator shop down the road from me but they won't re-wind this stator for me.. I'm seriously contemplating re-winding it myself as theres plenty of examples of stators being re-wound for more power. I'm fairly confident they will sell me magnet wire if I go ask nicely, and following the examples i've found online I should be able to tackle this little project since the ricky stators are junk and no local stealerships have one on hand.

This one is clearly faster than the carbon fiber one because it has tank and fender stickers! It's got to be pushing 200hp!

Bump, anything else i should check? I've got to get stuff ordered TODAY running out of time! Don't have a flywheel puller so i've got to get one before I can even think about looking at the stator!

Okay, so it was warm today and i've been thinking about tearing down the shee and painting the whole thing up, So I figured i'd start with the plastics to see how things were going to come out seeing as we're going camping/riding friday I didnt really have time for a complete tear down. Anyways I removed all my plastics and washed them off with soapy water to start. The tank cover was by far the worst piece so I figured I would start with it. Here's what it looked like to start with. Very faded and chalky and nasty and all around horrible looking. (i scraped the stickers too as they were in sad shape) I started with some steel wool just figuring id get some of the crap off of it and scuff it up good before I went on and painted. As i started sanding the plastic started looking better and better as the old faded chalky shit came off of it quite easier than I expected. You can see here the red coming back, although scuffed quite a bit I kept on using a little lighter pressure as it got cleaner. I figured that it was looking MUCH better than before and I might try wet-sanding it after the steel wool to see if it would come back to life. I was impressed by how much better the plastic looked just after hitting it with the steel wool, so I got out some ultra fine wetsanding paper and kept the water on it as I sanded it over a couple times. The result was night and day compared to what it was, the more i wet sanded the slicker and nicer the plastic became. So I moved on to the rear plastics, heres what they looked like before. You can see they're in pretty sad shape too, the black spots and grime thats been on them FOREVER. Again I started with the steel wool, hoping id have as good of a result as I did with the tank plastics, after a while of scrubbing with steel wool and washing the steel wool out over and over this is what it was looking like. Things were starting to look just as promising so I continued with the same process, steel wool until all the grime and dead plastic was gone, then wetsanding with the hose until the plastic was nice and slick again. I put the front plastics beside the rears just as a comparison. The difference was amazing. And heres a closeup of the front/rear plastics side by side so you can really see the difference. I continued my steel wool/wetsanding ritual on the front plastics & the headlight plastic, although I feel I need to hit them with the steel wool again as I got much more off the rears once it was all said and done.. I blame it on being tired by the time I got to the fronts man this was a very long process that required lots of elbow grease. Once I used the steel wool and wetsanded each part individually I reassembled everything and washed it again, then wetsanded it with the hose running just to keep slicking it up. Heres the end result. I've pretty much decided that they came out looking soo much better im not going to paint these plastics. I figured they were beyond repair but I was very wrong

for what it's worth i've been wetsanding and washing the bike ALL FRIGGING DAY. I took it out for a ride down the trails, ran great.. Came back and gave it one more good wetsanding and then rode down to where my bro in law was feeding the horses. Switched it off and talked for a while, then went to kick it and had nothing. It's had a lot of water on it today.

Okay, I suspect my stator has died. I have no spark, was riding shut down and wouldn't fire back up. Checked Ohms between red & green wires and got nothing 0.00 Checked Ohms between red/white & green/white and also get nothing 0.00 Checking ohms between Red and any other wire shows various ohm ranges, Same story with the green. Wiring looks down to where they disappear into the plastic tubing. Can someone verify that this is my problem, supposed to go riding/camping FRIDAY so i've got to get this fixed!!!

It doesn't even have any stickers!!!! Think of how much faster it would be if it had 230 hp worth of stickers on it!?

Regarding battery life, im not running my headlamps off of this battery since it's not charged by the stator. My gps and LED's under the quad are all that run off of it at present, if I can find a set of lights that would look decent on the shee I might convert them over. From what I can find I think the trail tech's are rated at 37 watts each so thats 74 Watts of draw. Convert watts to amps (Amps = watts/volts) 74 / 12 = 6.1 amps of draw. This particular battery is said to have a 4 amp-hour reserve Thus it will last probably about 30-40 minutes running your lights. The only way this would be reliable powering your headlights is if you had charge coming into it from the stator unless you can find a battery with much more Amp-Hours on it and to do that the battery will get larger, for my application the led's and gps will run a very long time as my LED's only draw about .01 amps each.. .01 x say 5 led's (only one strip on there currently) is .05 amps 4 amp hours / .05 = 80 hours of runtime.. This would drop off some as the battery discharges but they could stay on days and days and not hurt the battery. I'll have to look up what the GPS draws but it's not much either.

I thought about this when I made it, it's actually kind of hard to see here but it's bent in such a way that it rests on the cross brace on the side as well as on the top. I'll keep you posted if I have any problems, I figure it could always be through bolted with some small bolts but I didn't want to drill any larger of a hole than I had to. As for the metal itself it's quite sturdy the brackets I have holding my GPS are much more narrow and don't flop around at all, No more weight than was on it id didn't really fear it flopping much the screws are probably the weakest point.