pondtunes

Sadly No... but it sure did raise a few eyebrows from my buddies when I pulled up shut the engine off and music was softly playing from the shee haha. I joked with my neighbor and told him I got jealous because his big fancy 4x4 honda had a speedo so I figured id one up him by having GPS, Speedo & some music.

Seems they still somewhat hate water even after TORS is removed! We had just had some major rain and I went out along the trails and decided to follow the creek to see how high it was in various places. Theres a spot with an open field and I laid into it and was wound up in about third gear when I hit a "puddle" of standing water, it was actually a LOT of standing water and it threw a huge wall of water up over the front of the shee soaking me and turning the whole bike mostly sideways.. When I hit the other side I had slowed a whole bunch but as soon as I hit the throttle it stuck! I was in an open field and half expecting it to stick as i've heard they do stick when they get wet so at least I was ready for it!

So I a little industrious this last weekend and picked up a battery for the shee and decided to re-locate my electronics (CDI / Voltage Regulator) from the rear of the bike to clean up the wiring (which was in pretty poor condition anyways) So I pulled the plastics and disconnected the CDI/Voltage regulator and fabbed up a bracket from a simpson strong tie (available at lowes in many different shapes and sizes) These ties are pretty rigid but you can cut them easily and they can be bent with a vice in a pinch, I used small 12" brake mounted to the bench that we found somewhere ages ago. I found one of suitable size to hold both the CDI and voltage regulator and once it was bent/drilled to accept everything I gave it a quick coat of primer and sprayed it flat black (ill re-do it to match the frame whenever I can get around to that) The spot I picked was between the suspension arms just above the brake lines, I bent the bracket in such a way that it didn't contact the stock lines at all.. I was also looking to mount my coolant overflow bottle here but I relocated it to the garbage can as many people seem to have done. The wiring harness did need to be shortened but it's not a big deal at all. The wires are all color coded so once I routed the wires to the front I cut the plug off of the harness and shortened it about two feet. I soldered the connections and used waterproof tape and wire loom to protect the splices. Then i moved on to the battery. I didn't go to the trouble of floating the stator and giving the shee the ability to charge it as im only running some very low current LED's and my GPS off of it and it's never gone dead. I normally just stick it on a battery maintainer every few days to keep the charge up. (I intend on just leaving my lights on for a few days to see how long they will last, previously they ran for 16 hours on a 9 volt battery and were still on when I came back out to the bike) The battery I picked was the smallest 12 volt Powersports battery that Autozone carries, it set me back about $49.00 I think, it fits perfectly under the gas tank plastics and the plastics when bolted down actually serve to hold the battery in place. It is a duralast battery part # CT4L-BS FP if anyone is curious. Again I used a simpson strong tie bent around the contours of the battery in a "U" shape then the longer tab was bent over and I used some self taping screws to attach it to the frame, then primed and painted it flat black. The gray/orange connectors serve as a positive/negative bus and have 4 positions for distributing power. The black plug in the picture is a quick connect for my battery charger that tucks neatly out of the way when not in use. Everything connects to the orange/gray quick connectors and is protected by a waterproof inline fuse that is visible on the right hand side of the battery near the tank bolt. Finally since we're gearing up for a riding trip next weekend I threw my Lowrance GPS on the bike, it has a land/sea/offroad feature that can map trails and make waypoints as well as a speedo feature.. As a bonus the thing has an MP3 player so I actually have some tunes when I shut down the bike haha. Same thing on the brackets here, some thin simpson strong ties that use the screws that hold on the plastic that supports the key switch (also relocated to the trashcan). The small black button that goes where the fuel tank overflow tube normally would go is a waterproof on/off switch that turns on the accessory power from the battery. I relocated the tube just beside the plastic keyswitch cover.

OH! one more thing to try just because I ran into something kind of similar the other day.. The vent tube that goes to your gas tank mine was disconnected forever and when I had the plastics off I dug it out and reconnected it. Took off and down the trails after dark and after rounding a turn the bike stumbled and died. Didn't want to crank back up for a minute.. I had just relocated my electronics to the front of the bike so I feared something may have come unplugged. Tried after a minute or two and it fired up, as soon as I kicked into gear and gave her some gas she died again. I sat there in the dark trying to figure out what might have caused it, then I pulled the vent tube off of the top of the gas tank.. Kicked her a time or two and shee came right back to life, got back to the shop and ripped the tube the rest of the way out, it was caked with dirt and crap I assume not allowing the tank to suck in air creating a vacuum inside!

Sounds like a TORS system malfunction the TORS system is designed to cut the spark if the system detects the throttle lever isn't pressed and the slides are up. Or if the parking brake is on. They cause a lot of trouble and most people here will recommend you remove them completely. You can tell if your bike has them by looking at the carbs, they are two big bulky units mounted to the top of the carbs with wires coming out of them. If you do have the TORS system follow the wires to the carbs you should find a plug under the gas tank with black and white wires. Unplug this plug and see if your problem persists, If so you can ride with the TORS unplugged until you can get a TORS removal kit or a set of carbs with the TORS already removed.

Sorry for being off topic here but DAMN those phillips screws! Mine were pre-stripped when I had to dive into the cover, replaced them all with allen head screws for next time.

Sounds like you're rich on the idle circuit, your idle mixture screws can be used here to fine tune the idle mixture, these should have little to do with the actual bike idle speed but typically they're set at 1.5 turns out then fine tuned from there. Running them out more should lean the idle circuit out, do you have oil dripping and tons of smoke coming out the exhaust when it's idling? Also what size is your pilot jet?

My stock round yamaha cover has a rubber gasket of sorts behind it, i was sad to learn that there was nothing behind this cover.. The next time I have my cover off i'll be drilling a hole in it. I had some shifting issues and had the entire clutch cover off twice quite annoying to drain the oil just for a simple adjustment trying to dial it in.

My shee came with a twist throttle when I got it, I rode with it and after much adjustment and tinerking it didn't have half a turn of deadzone in it and it wasn't awful.. I orderd a thumb throttle and am extremly happy that I switched to the thumb setup, Seems that i'fe got more precise control over the throttle really really glad i got a thumb instead.

Check your idle screws if they are run all the way in when you crank it the idle could be ramped way up. Tightening them should increase idle speed, backing them off should lower it. The way the idle screws work is they pull the slides up higher allowing more fuel/air into the engine from the start. The slides allow gas and air to enter the engine... There is a needle that slips down into the main jet plugging it, the more throttle you give it the higher the slides raise allowing more and more fuel/air into the engine. Thus for it to be running wide open the slides would have to be in the up position.. If they are not sticking the problem should be in your idle circuit.. (Pilot jet/ idle screw)

One more thing, I personally would replace that item given the speed at which the clutch & basket rotate having a broken one seems like it would throw it way off balance, and cause all sorts of bearing wear... Once the bearings were worn out it would wobble in the shaft causing who knows what kind of damage! A clutch basket is a very simple thing to change when compared to what you'll have to go through if it damages the bearings and eats up the inside of the tranny!!!

Maybe stating the obvious here but seems like someone's been inside there before! They probably tried to remove the nut holding the clutch boss in using a prybar to hold it still instead of the clutch holding tool or impact wrench. Otherwise something that big would still be in the case!! I really don't know how many plates are in the clutch im sure someone will chime in, I was just inside mine the other day doing the shift star mod and fixing my shifting arm but I didn't bother to count em!

The air screws typically start at 1 1/2 turns out from fully seated (don't torque em down) the screws/pilot only affect you till 1/4 throttle so if you're okay at idle don't change them the screws will fine tune it. Your midrange is affected by the needle size/taper and to a degree the main jet. WOT is all the main jet So if your WOT jetting is okay, then I would recommend setting the needle at the stock position 3rd clip and your idle at 1 1/2 turns you can fine tune the idle mixture richer or leaner using the screw It's ALWAYS better to be a little rich than lean at all! I'm sure someone will chime in based on your mods / elevation / temp on if you need to change the pilot/main again.

Picked up a thumb throttle assembly from http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showuser=13264 arrived just as represented and shipped fast! Much appreciated!

Bought a pair of TORS removed carbs from http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showuser=33629 shipped em promptly and they arrived exactly as represented. Thanks man!

If he's not I am! If anyone else has a set of these lmk!

"shee fuckin hates me" "shee's a gold digger?" <-meh "Shee-Bitch" "In Fast Forward" "Shee's Waving Bye" "VIAGRA"

"shee's a brick house"

it very well could get them out of sync, you use the little nuts on top of the carb or on the back of the TORS units to re-sync them. Theres a tool for it or you can do it by sight/sound. You can adjust them by sight then when you open the throttle and let it snap shut you should hear 1 distinct click, if you hear two they're still off.

Check Your Float Level in the supsect carb, also the needle and seat might be worn out under the float. To check float height take the carb/bowl off so you're looking at the float. Rotate the carb until the metal arm of the float just barely rests on the needle. Measure the height from the base of the carb where the gasket is to the bottom of the float. I measured mine with the gasket in place as to not tear it up and set my floats at 26 mm and have had no issues. You can make a "L" shaped cardboard tool that is 25 mm 26 mm and 27 mm from inside the "L" and measure it that way.

ban99 makes them, and they're awesome! Much beefier than the stock one.. shipped with clear instructions and everything you need! I love mine

Okay, got my new carbs slapped on and think i've got most everything dialed in.. Went for a spin and tried to shift into third and she wouldn't go! Came back to the shop and started poking around. Ended up pulling the clutch cover / clutch basket and found this: So i'm off to buy a new gasket, locking washer & this screw in a few minutes.. Is there anything else I should do while im in here!? I have some more pics located here: http://www.pondtunes.com/personal/banshee/clutch/

Posted 19 December 2009 - 04:05 PM Looks like to me he just bumped an old post to give FAST some feedback! He probably shoulda used the feedback forum

1) more jets - aight i'll give Jeff a call and get some more on order. 2) Hrm I don't understand why running the screws out has any bearing on the bike running BETTER on the top end then.... There has to be some other issue that's causing problems (going to check for air leaks) 3) I'll re-look at the site 4) Gas - 32:1 Mix Ratio 5) Yes my carbs have TORS and the elbow that directs fuel into the left carb has had the grooves rounded off by someone else, I've been told I can't replace this part thus I found a set of carbs with the TORS removed.

Thanks for the tips... 1) no airbox lid Dunno if theres some other problem here, but i will be checking for leaks as suggested before as soon as my new carbs get here. However; I dropped the 260's in and and had a similar bog at WOT... The more i turned the screws out the more the bog/backfire diminished... I was under the assumption that the screw only affected 1/4 / idle thus idle mixture... However the problem DID get better as I ran them out, im sure my idle is beyond too rich now i've ordered a set of 280 jets do i need to go bigger??? temps in the 60's right now will be 80's / 90's before long