pondtunes

I had been told my shee was an 89-90 model... But according to this I shouldn't have a brake light/switch which mine does... I went and got the Vin's and ran them and it came back a 1987 model... Just curious as to why an 87 would have a brake/tail setup and an 89 model!

Try grabbing the end of the tool with your thumb and index fingers, resting the back of your hand on whatever your cutting. You can use your wrist/hand to guide that high speed bit anywhere you want with amazing precision!

+10000 on the rotozip. it will get into places a jigsaw could never dream, cut tiny details, and sharp corners.. I use mine on almost a daily basis on boats cutting glass and plastics. I recommend grabbing it close to the base where the cutting tip is spinning, and holding it tightly, resting your hand on the material and slowly guiding the bit with you hand.. if you try to one hand it and let the blade wobble it will wander off course FAST.. Theres a ton of tips for cutting various materials.. FYI if you're going to cut fiberglass buy the standard tile cutting bits at lowes they are very jagged and rough, i've been using the same three bits for ages two still new in the box! The tile bit also works great on plastics its WAY more aggressive than the normal cutting bits. Tape up what you're going to cut with masking tape, then draw your lines in with a sharpie, just follow the line with the bit and rip off the tape, you'll have nice clean lines that require minimal cleanup!

I played around with this a bunch back in college, I took a welding class as kind of a stress relief type course and ended up getting certified mig/tig/stick on plate and pipe. Anyways, we did some plastic welding for a week or so and I ended up bringing in some plastic inner fenders off my chevelle to see if I could save a buck fixing them rather than buying new ones as they were split and cracked in a couple places.. As with any welding you need to clean the joint you're going to make extremely well. All dirt, grease etc all needs to come off. Your joints need to be clean and free of burrs, a file or sandpaper can help a lot here. Probably the most important thing is to use filler plastic that is the exact same plastic as the plastic you're trying to weld. PVC or polyethylene plastics require a correct filler plastic of the same type! Just like you wouldn't use aluminum filler to weld steel. You probably want to practice on some junk plastic first, if possible find something near the thickness as well as the same type of plastic that you'll be working on, heat control is just as important welding plastics as it is welding metal.. If you heat the work more than the filler or the filler is too thick you'll end up melting your plastics down before you can get a puddle.. Properly done you should be able to make a nice bead similar to what you would have tig welding. You may want to weld it from the back side so the weld bead isn't so pronounced if you're going to sand it down and paint it this might not be an issue but there could very well be a visible mark from the repair. Good Luck!

Wheee! What a night! I tore the engine down to the reeds, removed them, taped up the exhaust and intake ports and loaded ole dirty bastard into the back of the truck.. Took it to the car wash and degreased the crap out of it... Who woulda thought the engine was aluminum and not brown dirt! Anyways, took the reeds apart, cleaned them well and re-installed everything. Fired it up and i noticed I only had one side running well... Nice pop pop 2 stroke sound.. The other pipe was dripping oil, i assumed my plug was dead. Swapped plugs and the problem moved. So I bought new plugs. Slapped the new plugs in and took off today and after some adjustments it seems to be much better! I still have a bog at WOT so I assume the only way to fix this is with a jet. I moved the needle to the stock position upon re-assembly it was closest to the blunt end. My idle is a little smoky but it really hits the powerband hard with as much as 3/4 throttle and stays in it. I can definately tell when I pass 3/4 throttle though because its a definite bog! Btw my plugs are still wet and oily but i no longer have oil coming out the exhaust everywhere. Moreso the right carb than the left. Should I try the choke trick to see if it goes on up at WOT now?!?

Okay more updates, After reading up on adjusting the carbs i have determined that since my problem is in the 3/4 or less range perhaps I should adjust the needle / slide.... Upon tearing down the needle/slide assembly i found the E clip was already on the notch closest to the blunt end of the needle.. From what I read this should be the leanest setting... I had really hoped that it was set to the richest setting (closest to the tapered end so that i could lean this circuit out...) moving it down should make the problem worse right?

Okay i took the reed valves apart and cleaned them with carb cleaner and re-assembled. The right side still has a very small gap on the lower side where the left side does not! Should there be a gap at all?

Hmmmm okay i pulled the hose that comes off of the right hand carb that goes down to the crank case i had a nice 3 inch puddle of oily nastyness in just a few minutes it wasn't a stream just a steady drip.... 1) How much gunk should come out of there? 2) Could my floats be the problem with bogging and backfiring? 3) How do my reeds look should i be able to see a small gap on the lowers? 4) side note: JB weld on the carb didn't work so well i think im going to buy a nipple or something and thread it in.

Okay just went and snapped some photos, i can't really find any identifying markings on the pipes i just assume they're stock. While down there i did notice what looks to be oil/fuel on the front of the engine where the exhaust hooks up..

Hmm man theres a problem.. I bought this thing second hand and I don't know much about it.. I was told the carbs had been rebuilt but the splash guard thingy wouldn't stay put so whoever did it shoulda replaced that imo. It was running without an air cleaner to begin with, and no airbox lid. Now it has proper carb boots as well as an air cleaner. The exhaust as far as I know is stock, i'll go look and see if there are any markings that might identify it.

Okay just tore this thing back down to the reeds.. (photos here) -> http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=127045&view=findpost&p=1100741 the reeds *look* okay to me as far as not being broken or having cracks.. The lower ones did have a visually detectable gap between the reed and the reed housing... Both sides seemed to look the same. What's next? and for the most part I do shut the fuel off... how do i tell if the needles/seats are shot and how important is the tiny washer that goes under the main jet in the carb? One seems to be missing... I have a new splash guard ordered and the lady says it comes with the washer.

Okay, pulled the carbs yet again, this time took off the intake and pulled the reeds. They didn't visually look very dirty and i can't spot any cracks in either set. I did however notice what i assume is the LOWER reeds do have a visually noticeable gap when looked at from the end. (see pictures) both sides seemed to have this gap, if you press lightly with your finger they close up but there is a gap here.. Is there a way to tell which side is supposed to be up? what else should I check while this thing is torn this far down.. The rubber intake boots seemed to have some cracking going on but the cracks didn't go all the way through. Also if making these pictures smaller would make anyone more happy I will but i thought the larger pictures might show more detail!

No i haven't really messed with the reed valves :\ There's a crossover pipe installed now as the ports on the intake were just plugged. I mixed this batch at 30:1 ratio... From what I think I've gathered here a 240 main would let more fuel in correct? Making it richer.. Logically i would go down (after i check my reeds hehe) On the plus side I can tear this thing down and re-assemble it in my sleep!

Had a topic on the repair forum but it seems to be now a fuel/carb issue.. The original thread is here: http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=127045 The short version is the shee idles fine and free revs, however when its under load it bogs and backfires. Carbs are completely clean, air cleaner & crossover tube are in place. 200 main jets, 25 pilots, air screw set at 2.5 turns out. Plugs are black and wet, noticable amount of gas / oil in the exhaust Elevation: 791 FT temps are colder than usual right now, 40's during the day. our spring/summers stay in the 80-100 degree range

Any ideas on what to try next? I wanna ride! hehe

Okay guys, back with news. Carbs are COMPLETELY clean Jets are as follows: 200 Main, 12.5 or 2.5 pilot jet, theres some kind of symbol but man they're hard to read... Installed crossover pipe Set air screw at 1.5 turns out Installed Air Cleaner Idle's perfectly now and kicks first crank. If you're running pretty flat it will wind out good, Up a very very very minimal grade however at 1/2 or 3/4 or WOT when theres a load it bogs down hard and backfires. I seem to have a noticeable amount of fuel/oil coming out of my exhaust now which wasn't present before. My plugs are very black and very oily now See Below: LEFT PLUG RIGHT PLUG Our gut feeling is now its drowning in fuel.... We tried playing with the air screw with no avail, as far out as 2.5 turns as far in as 3/4 turns... I think in = less air = rich but i could be wrong...

Another member here suggested that my exhaust was missing output tubes.... What exactly is an output tube and what is the advantage/disadvantage of them not being present? Should I replace them? Can I? or do I need new silencers? *Note please excuse the nasty condition of this quad it's in serious need of a bath but the weather has been horrible

I have a small problem... This elbow that goes into the side of the carb is loose... I was at the dealership ordering a new splash guard for the left carb and was informed to get this elbow i would have to buy a new carb... Any objections to me JB welding this bitch in place? The carb is otherwise fine just some jackass twisted this enough that the ribs that hold it in place were worn down enough to let it wiggle out... I assume this could cause all sorts of problems if it were to happen (again) while riding. Im guessing air could be sucked in, fuel spillage, or starving one carb for fuel if it were leaking..

Oooh! baker totally sent me one of those with the carb boots and air cleaner! Thanks i'll throw that in when i rip these things out to clean em!

Yeah It's been way too cold to properly clean this thing and i just haven't felt like carrying it to the car wash yet lol.. I'll properly degrease it and clean it up good soon! Proper Fuel Line is on the list..... as for a crossover tube you're the second one to mention that... What is this mysterious item that i'm apparently missing and where's it normally installed? *edit* I'm guessing its probably supposed to pe in pic #4... Where the bolts are plugging the intake boot things on each side... Pretty sure thats not yammie engineering...

FML... No.. No I didnt lol.. *stabs self* I'll tear it down again maybe tomorrow and report back lol. I am gonna be a total pro at disassembling this thing and putting it back together...

Okay guys, this is getting into more of a repair issue now i think so i made a new topic over on the repair forum... You can find the carb teardown here: http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=127045&st=0&gopid=1098231entry1098231

#7 - Okay you can't exactly tell from this photo but this needle is bent slightly, it doesn't appear to impede operation at all but If i should change it I will. #8 - The float bowl off the right carb... This carb has a hose attached to the lower barb the left carb does not have one.. Overflow I assume? They looked pretty clean inside no foreign debris. #9 - Bottom of the floats and the jet I could see through both of them well enough but i cleaned them out and checked them they have the number 200 stamped on the jets. (both match) #10 - looking down through the jets, I could see through both of them with no obstructions. #11 - The jet out of the right hand carb, stamped with a 200 #12 - What is this screw for? #13 - This bit of plastic was attached on the right hand carb but when i removed the bowl it was lying in the bottom of the left carb... I tried to press it in upon re-assembly but it doesn't stick like the other one... I put the bowl on turned it right side up shook it then removed it again with the bowl turned up... It seemed to stay but will fall off if the bowl isn't installed. What is it and does it need to be replaced?? Okay in conclusion after re-assembly everything was working smoothly the carbs were opening and closing in sync.. It fired first kick i drove out the driveway and it seemed to have pretty good throttle response.. However; theres a very mild hill on the road I live on and when I hit second i tried to nail it..... Still bogging down, so i try accellerating slowly and it comes up and once it hits the powerband it really winds out hard. Upon hitting third if I nail it again it bogs and will backfire (out the right hand pipe so im told) I wasn't experiencing any backfires when the bike was run without an air cleaner/boots (how it was when i got it.) Ideas? I live in central north carolina Elevation is 791 feet... Temp today was 64 ish, and it's been in the high teens, I like to ride in the snow which we get very little of summer temps are as high as 100.. LMK if you need to know anything else or what to try next!

Okay I had a general kinda question thread but this has moved to more of the repairs section now so in an effort to put it in the right place heres a new topic.. The original topic was HERE: http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=126724 where It was suggested that I tear down the carbs and clean them, thus the following images of the cleaning and the result. *Note I apologize for how dirty this quad is, it needs a proper cleaning from head to toe and I *WILL* get it done hehe. #1 Someone in the previous thread suggested my exhaust was missing output pipes... If it is it should be fairly obvious here lol.... Suggestions? Do i need entire new silencers or can the output pipes be purchased? #2 Plastics, Right Silencer, Air Box / Filter Removed... Just provided to see if theres anything you can spot out of place/wrong etc. #3 Alright aside from the fuel line that isn't really fuel line (will be replaced) this elbow that goes into the carb is quite loose.... It appears that the little ribs on the elbow itself are worn away the grooves in the carb seem okay visually... Are these replaceable? If so what's it called? After re-assembly and a test run it came loose and was actually leaking fuel on the motor! #4 Another reference photo, the wires here have no protection and one was routed right under the clutch mechanism I re-routed and taped them up to protect them a bit more.. Let me know if you see anything else that needs attention! #5 - Carbs are removed i suspect this throttle cable should be replaced as it has quite a bit of slack and no way to take it out... I'm considering a thumb throttle changeover so i'll look into the cable swap when I do that. #6 - Starting disassembly, i hear theres a kit to remove the little boxes atop the carbs... Someone has already cut the wires for me so I assume they don't work anyway. Continued next post due to picture count...

Okay guys, got some parts from baker in the mail and now i've got a spiffy set of carb boots, an air cleaner and I picked up a radiator cover plastic from fleebay. Got all of it installed and ran across a few other things as I was working on the bike.. Point #1 Okay I know the hose pictured here isn't a proper fuel line hose, so thats on the list of shit to replace. But notice the hint of fuel leaking there? Its the elbow that goes into the carb.. It's loose to the point you can wiggle it right out.... How do I repair this? This is where the exhaust pipe meets the header, the rubber here is shot and leaking.. The other end is also shot but appears to have a bit of hose on it, is hose acceptable here or in the next pic or is there a proper term for this rubber seal? The other end of the pipe that meets the silencer. Since putting on the air cleaner the shee has developed a full throttle bog... If i slowly crank the throttle back and accellerate i have no problems, however if i dump it the motor will bog and then backfire... Didn't notice this before the air cleaner so it seems to be a new occurance. I also repaired a multitude of melted wires near the airbox which in turn fixed my rear brake light