pondtunes

Oh I did read it and read how you dismissed the initial diagnosis of your problem because your guy knew what he was doing.. Then after several other people pointed the same way you called the guy and he says oh I might have leaned it out. Now you get to go back and spend $ getting something done that should have been done from the get go. But it's YOUR bike and your money that you're spending maybe he can pre-mix your fuel and kick start it for you too. /endrant

I fail to see why you're providing us with information about the bike if you're just gonna pay someone $150 bucks to jet your bike for you.. If you've suddenly decided to tackle the little job this is yourself now bravo, jets cost about $3 each from FAST racing. The time you'll invest doing this will prove invaluable because you'll know when your bike is right, and you'll know when it needs attention.. What if you go riding with friends somewhere that isn't sea level or the temp is widely different from where you're at now? Your bike will run like shit and you won't have the knowledge to change the jets and could end up with a crappy ride or something worse if you're bike leans way out an expensive repair. I probably am being a dick here, but I don't see why you want help if you're just gonna pay someone down the road to do it for you.

Yeah i was gonna comment on those too, what the fuck are those horrible looking headlights lol

I've long said that if you're gonna have toys either you've got to be able to work on something yourself or have lots of money to pay people when you need something done. If the latter describes you then why go through the trouble of logging on to an internet forum, putting random strangers through the trouble of reading your post letting them respond with help just to take your bike back to ththe guy who should have dialed it in properly to begin with?

Jetting your bike yourself isn't hard at all, if you can find out what size jets you've got in it there is a jetting faq that you can use to see what baseline you should start off with then fine tune it from there. It takes into account your elevation above sea level as well as ambient temperature as well.. Don't take a lean situation lightly with as many rev's as these engines will turn it doesn't take long at all running lean to burn a hole in a piston!

Another thing if you just got this bike and the TORS system is still connected.. (wires connected to the two black boxes on top of your carbs) it's in your best interest to get rid of the TORS system with a TORS removal kit. It was a huge pain to try to tune the carbs with the tors system on my bike, it wouldn't ever idle right. Once TORS was gone it purrs like a kitten and fires up first kick. You can see if TORS is preventing your bike from starting (if its connected and if it has no spark) by unplugging the little black box mounted on the left side below the gas tank. If you unplug that and find that the bike now has spark then you'll see why everyone removes that TORS Crap

Couple things to try first off: Dumb question... is your kill switch in the OFF position? After checking that: Pull your plugs, put the wire back on the plug and lay it against the head or the exhaust wherever you can see it. Kick it over slowly and you should see a fat blue spark jumping the gap. If you've got spark next pull your air filter and use a flash light to look at the carbs, make sure the slides inside the carbs aren't stuck open. You should see them move up and down when you actuate the throttle. While you've got the air filter off, might as well clean it as you need Air/Fuel/Spark to run if you're missing one you'll find your problem.

I disagree, if they changed your jetting and didn't dial the bike in (by riding it) you could very well be excessively rich or lean on the top end causing your problems. You can't really just slap a set of jets in and it ride perfect theres a lot of trial and error getting it dialed in. One other scenario is the bike might have been running strong on the top end before, maybe it had a air leak and was overjetted to compensate.. After the motor work was done the air leak was gone and now its excessively rich. Doing a proper plug chop will tell you exactly whats going on with the bike and let you know if jetting is off. Since the pipes didn't change I wouldn't think your other mods would have boosted the midrange power and not also boosted the top end, i think you would see gains across the entire RPM range by doing those mods.

An 18" pipe wrench will take those nuts right off, keep in mind a pipe wrench will mar the flat surfaces of the nuts a bit when it bites in but it will remove them easily. Method #1 if your bearings are intact: 1) Remove Rear Skid Plate if so equipped 2) lock your parking brake or have a helper hold the rear. 3) Place the pipe wrench on the outer nut, end of the wrench toward the motor. (they are both normal threads) 4) Tap down on the wrench with a ball peen hammer, the outside nut will come loose. 5) Once you remove the outside nut do the inside nut the same way 6) Jack up the quad, remove the wheels, remove the left wheel hub (side the shifter is on) 7) The axle nuts will now slide off, and the sprocket hub should slide off. 8) Release the parking brake 9) Remove Brake Caliper 10) Re-Install Left Wheel Hub 11) Re-Install Left Wheel Hub Crown Nut (don't reinstall the cotter pin) 12) Tape the appropriate socket over the crown nut to keep it held in place 13) Place a board over the socket and give it a few whacks with a BFH If all goes well the axle should slide out of the spacer. You can now slide the brake hub off the axle and replace it.. If your bearings are good you can slap new hubs on and be done with it. Otherwise continue reading. 14) Use a 3/8" Drive extension long enough to reach through the carrier. Use a hammer to tap the bearing out from the inside out, once you get one side free the spacer tube should come out. 15) Install a Grease Fitting in your carrier to prevent this bs from happening again. *recommend pulling the inner seal off of the bearing to allow the grease to get into the bearing. Method #2 you let your bearings go too long and your banshee ate one or both, or the axle wont come out of the spacer tube. Follow steps 1-12 Hopefully you have at least one bearing that isn't destroyed, if they're both destroyed you might not be getting that spacer tube off without some major surgery... 12) Remove axle carrier 13) Clean everything you can to get any ground in dirt out then soak the axle tube with pb blaster. Go take a break and come back in a few hours and soak it again. Then go drink some beer and come back tomorrow. 14) Get a big block of wood and place it on a flat level surface (get something thick, like a railroad tie or 6x6 block or bigger so you don't miss. 15) If the Right side (side with the kick starter) bearing is intact you're going to want to hold the carrier in your hand with the socket pointed down at the large block. Then pretty much pile drive the socket into the block of wood. With a little luck it will move a bit. Keep slamming the socket straight down into the block of wood and the spacer should eventually come off. Your block of wood may look similar to this by the time your done. If your bearings are trashed like these: Then you've got a little more work ahead of you. Once the axle is out you'll be left with the outer ring of the bearing that is an ultra bitch to get out. The easiest way I found to do it is to use a die grinder to cut a groove in the bearing ring and weaken it. I didn't have a die grinder but I used my rotozip with a tile cutting bit and some cutting fluid and made a nice groove down the bearing. We're just trying to weaken the bearing here so it will break not cut all the way through it, so be sure to not go too deep or cut too fast with whatever you're using as you don't want to cut down into the carrier causing yourself more problems on re-assembly. Then grab yourself a carriage bolt with a large head. Place the bolt inside the bearing or under it if you can get it there, then wedge the large side of a ball peen hammer inside with it. This will give the bolt something to pivot against. Be sure to put the head of the bolt near the groove you cut as that's currently the weak point of the bearing. Now hold a little pressure on the hammer and bolt to keep it in place then whack the end of the bolt towards the handle of the ball peen hammer with your trusty BFH.. A few taps here should result in the bearing breaking near the groove we cut, the bearing will then come right out. Clean everything up using a parts washer or some kerosene and a wire brush to get all the years of crap off all the components before re-assembly.

Okay i've decided my axle bearings are shot, chain looked like it had some serious slack in it and I jacked it up and the rear wheels have some serious back/forth up/down play in them.. I guess i've got to buy an axle tool unlesss someone has a way to do it without buying the axle nut tool. Anyhoo it looks like my sprocket hub has a bit of play in it as well maybe front/back as much as a 16th or 8th of an inch. Am I going to need to mess with anything else or will just bearings fix me up? Need to know before I start ordering shit then tear it down to find out I need something else!

I'd love to leave that out but you see why im rather interested in getting this right I have every jet from 200 to 310 guess i'll buy up to 350's and keep playing with it.

Okay since I re-did the shee and got everything cleaned and nice it's time to get this thing running right. I've read and re-read the jetting faq and this is what the math says I should use as a baseline. No Airbox Lid -> +2 sizes K&N -> +5 Sizes Pipes & Silencers -> +8 60-90 degrees weather -> no change 700ish' above sea level -> no change High Humidity -> +2 So just guessing here my baseline should be: 2 + 5 + 8 + 2 = 17 Sizes Larger? She had 200's in there so my baseline is 370? Largest I have is 310's and she still won't rev out at WOT I've got to get this thing figured out, silly 400ex is smoking me.

Coolant was empty, I noticed the white stuff coming out the crank overflow dripping everywhere, hasnt been happening long I dont think because i haven't seen it on the shop floor. put water in and it was hot but i dont *think* i overheated it very short ride.

this isn't good I know! waterpump? It wasn't blowing white smoke that im aware of i have until july 2nd to fix this!

Yeah it happens, you can't really see the shift star very well unless you pull the clutch basket. if nothing else it might be a bit easier to work on on the bench and if its NOT your shift star you'll be that much closer to having it out to dig deeper.

It is more of a flood pattern. I run mostly tight trails, so i like the spread I dare say they reach just as far as the stockers did though. I'll try to get some pics for comparison tonight, When I was out at buscoe there were lots of flat open areas and they did real well out there too. I was just really sick of the way the stock lights dimmed at idle and wasn't gonna go the high output stator route. Now I have light when I want it regardless of if the shee is running or not

Sheee no longer has any red, I tore it down and redid it and moved away from the red/white stock colors. 1987 Banshee Project <- theres a link to where I re-did stuff.

I was really, really, really sick of the stock lighting on my shee before I started tearing it down and re-doing it. So I was looking at all sorts of alternatives.. I added a battery to my shee for some underbody LED lighting. Knowing these were LED's and had low current draw I figured I would be safe with a very small battery. So I got the smallest ATV/Motorcycle battery I could find and went from there. The LED's were the only draw on my battery and I didn't go through the trouble of floating the ground and adding a voltage regulator because I could go for nights and nights of running and they never go out. Anyways, My LED supplier just recently started offering a ultra bright tri-LED driving light, so I ordered a couple of them and figured I would give it a shot, and this is the outcome. I kinda like the oldschool retro look of the original stock headlights, so I figured i'd just order up another set of lights to retrofit these new bulbs into. I started modifying my old lenses by first disassembling them. My first attempt was to bend the metal around the glass lens enough to remove the lens and insert the new bulb from the front... This was an epic failure as you can see... Since I had already cracked this one and had new ones on the way I figured I would just cut away the old bulb mount and mount the bulb directly to the back of the housing. (sorry no pic just yet) So using a set of pliers to remove the stock bulb housing, I then used a sharpie to draw around the back of the lens (reflector) what I guessed would be of the correct size then just used a pair of right handed tin snips to cut away the reflector. This allowed the larger tri LED bulb to rest comfortably behind the reflector. These LED's don't really use the stock reflector since they're mounted flush with the back but I wanted to keep the stock headlight look. Once I got the back of the reflector trimmed out enough to accept the new bulb I powered them up, left is the LED bulb, and right is the normal stock headlight both wired to a constant 12v source. Note how white the light is off the LED bulb. And heres a shot of the lights from ahead off to the side a little bit, I was really impressed with the light output these little suckers had. Please forgive my very messy bench and shop, there was a lot going on that week! Heres a picture side by side of the light output difference of the two, stock is on the right, LED is on the left. In retrospect I realize that the stock light was turned on it's side thus why the strip of light up at an angle, they do have some sort of cutoff.. The LED lights have no such cutoff and flood the room with light. I had to fabricate a plug to fit the prongs on the new light but that wasn't a hard task at all, it could be done with a female spade connector easily. I ended up securing the bulb to the back of the reflector and sealing the light back with silicone, i've done a lot of hard riding since then and haven't had any problems with them coming loose or getting water in my headlights, and believe me if water was going to get in there it would have by now.. My shee gets wet and muddy and nasty. Heres a picture with the lights installed, when I was waiting on my pipes. I had really really really hoped these things would run off the stock electrical system with no further modifications but they won't. The lights illuminate and don't dim at idle but as soon as I revved the throttle and the voltage ramped up the Test light didn't survive. We were getting ready for our trip to buscoe so I went ahead and put two of them in, and disconnected the switch from the stock electrical system. I ran a wire from the switch to my very small ATV battery and wired them up so I could have light at any time. My underbody LED's will work for days and days and days before bringing the battery down. Once I added the headlights I can get two long nights of running before my battery goes dead. I have two of these batteries and just swapped them out and charged the dead one when it was out, since we were tent camping I didn't have power to run a battery charger. When im at home I just plug in the charger to the quick connector on the battery and always have a fresh charge. This is my battery, its the smallest one I could find size wise at the advance/autozone. I made a bracket to mount it right over where the tors adjustment used to be. It fits quite neatly there and is held in place by the gas tank plastic. Picture of us pulling the shee out of a massive mudhole with the LED Headlights on and the shee off... See? those LED lights underquad are completely functional and are used to illuminate the ground on the trails if one gets stuck As for light output once I got them aimed i've been completely satisfied with the light these things put out, I can see down the trails and off to the side quite well, they throw the light a lot further out than I expected. I'll try to get some photos tonight when it's dark of the difference in the stock light pattern vs these LED driving lights.

Again.. Don't mess with the adjusting screw, just take the entire clutch boss off. And don't try to vice grip it out.

I Think you're looking in the wrong spot... The push rod is behind the clutch boss, it's the large round cap over the clutch plates that is held in by the large phillips head screws & springs. There is a phillips head screw dead center of this, for adjusting the clutch. Remove the clutch boss by taking out the bolts with the springs behind them then the clutch boss will slide off. The pushrod / ball that is notorious for welding together is directly behind the phillips screw in the center of the clutch boss. Once you get the clutch boss off you'll see a large 32 mm (i think) nut that holds the clutch basket on, there is a hole in the center of this shaft.. THAT is where the pushrod/ball lives. Once you can see the end of the hole try moving the clutch actuator arm (where the clutch cable connects to the engine) and see if you can dislodge it. A strong magnetic pick up tool might pull them both out if it isn't seized up in there. Sorry for the crappy photo but here see the six bolts and one in the center? Take the six bolts with springs out and that whole thing comes off. The screw in the center is the adjuster, dont mess with it right now. The pushrod/ball will be right behind it.

Grab an electric impact and take that clutch basket and gear off.. Take a rag and put it between the crank gear and the gear that is behind the clutch and turn counterclockwise to put the gears in a bind. This will make removing that large nut that holds the clutch basket on much easier. Bend the tabs down on the lock washer holding the clutch basket nut on. Grab an electric impact and a huge socket, im thinking it was 32mm. Remove clutch basket nut. Take the rag off and the clutch basket should slide right off. Theres a large grooved bearing/sleeve behind it so don't drop it on the floor. then you should be able to see your shift star. If it looks like this then you'll need a new screw and a bottle of blue locktite. I had the exact same thing happen and mine turned out to be the screw holding the shift star on had come loose, backed out and pushed the shift fork off of the shift star. Now is a great time to do the shift star and or fork mod btw *Edit* One more note.. Your banshee transmission will NOT shift past second without the wheels turning! So if you find a problem, fix it and try to shift through the gears you'll need to spin the wheels or transmission to get it to move up past second.

Of course when I said that neither my kick starter or clutch want to chatter or be noisy lol. Anyways no mine is NOTHING like a dentist drill, you could pull your stator cover and check the sprocket bearing & flywheel bearing for play.. If you want to drain the oil before someone else chimes in and check the crank gear/transmission gears for play you could do that. But *I* suspect a bearing going bad if you find one with a lot of play you could pretty much assume you've found your culprit! OH does it do it when you're sitting still if you rev the engine!? or only when you're in motion? If not when you're sitting still free revving the motor maybe look at your axle / wheel bearings instead!

I may be way off base here but I would normally indicate a consistant singing noise as bearing going bad, my clutch plates rattle/sing on a fairly consistant basis though maybe i'll go make a sound clip and you can compare.

Check your kickstarter, they're notorious for rattling, either put a little pressure on it with your heel or leave it out and see if it goes away. Our clutches are also a little noisy esp when they've been sitting for a while as they dry out does the singing/noise fade over time?

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