pondtunes

I can buy 110LL AVGAS long as my gas can has AVGAS written on it The cost is about $1.32 / gallon more.. That being said is there a formula for knowing when you'll need that much octane? What kind of compression would I be looking at with a fresh bore, new rings/pistons, 5 1/2 deg timing advance?? Dune port & milled stock head any way to guess?

I've got some spare parts lying around that i'm no longer in need of, if you're interested in any of this let me know prices are flexible. All parts came off a 1987 banshee. Everything will be properly cleaned before shipping if theres no interest in them i'll get rid of them instead of wasting time cleaning them. (1) Sprocket Hub (yellow in color) splines are in good shape - $15 + shipping (1) red tank wrap, this was completely faded and chalky and I brought it back to life more or less no cracks or breaks, all tabs are there no elongated bolt holes. (does NOT have the black rubber gasket for the opening at the tank) - 15$ + shipping (1) boost bottle - $6 + shipping (1) pro flow filter adapter for a stock airbox. NO FILTER - I think this is designed for a foam filter, too small for my old K&N. -$12 + shipping (1) Set of left/right exhaust shields and pipes.. These have been painted with several coats high temp gloss black paint and are in good shape, bolts included. - $35 + shipping for everything (1) stock grab bar with tail-light... This tail light includes bulb, wiring harness (NOT A BRAKE LIGHT).. The grab bar is in very good shape for it's age never been scraped, not bent or banged up. It has a very little bit of rust on the chrome which should come off with some wd 40 and some scrubbing.. $25 + shipping (2) Carb 2 airbox boots, in great shape includes clamps on airbox side. No rips, tears or cracks. $15 + shipping I also have a stock airbox that hasn't been hacked up, the left side (opposite the kick starter) looks like it got hot at some point, (been this way since i had it) other than that its in good shape the wiring harness tabs are there, the coolant overflow bottle bracket is there. $25 + shipping?

I have a K&N Air filter w/ adapter in good shape, I just took it off my bike for pods also have a stock airbox without lid that is in okay shape if you want that too. $35 shipped on the filter/adapter $45 shipped for the box/filter/adapter

Thanks for the info guys! I'll take it all into consideration! Just out of curiosity what will sending my stock carbs off do? Who works them and what will they do to them?

If you're running 93 octane and have 140 psi compression it probably detonated to death... I believe anything over 120psi is race gas territory!

Yeah, i've dealt with Jeff at F.A.S.T. a lot he's great and I see the gasket kits they've got over there.. I'll give him a shout to see what we can work out on that. So what do i need to check on the bottom end once I get the top end apart? I'm okay with keeping the stock crank if there's nothing wrong with it. I replaced every seal in this motor earlier except the crank seals, is this the proper time to do these seals? I'd prefer my stock head over swapping to a coolhead. I just shot an email off to mull engineering about working my existing head.

Current mods are as follows: FMF Fatties w/ PC2 silencers Airbox removed w pod filters

I would also like to get a little more umph out of this bike without going to wild, can you set these things up to be stroker motors like you can with a car engine? If so whats the advantage? Drawbacks? I'd like to stay in pump gas, premium is okay id just rather stay away from race gas. Prefer to stick with mostly stock looking, considering a cool head for the better cooling/piece of mind I guess. If I don't need a coolhead I can totally spend that money elsewhere on the engine Also do i need to replace every stud holding the jugs on or just the missing one?

My old 87 banshee that i've been working on since joining here is in need of some motor work now I do believe. The stud on the right hand jug (front side near the exhaust) has been missing since I got the bike, recently the bike started running like shit and upon closer inspection the rear nut had worked itself loose and I assume i had a massive air leak. Anyhoo I retorqued all the nuts and did a compression test. Left bank is about 97PSI while the right bank is down to 75PSI with the bike running oil seeps out where the jug bolts to the case... Anyhoo im sure that bolt missing and the seal being broken there has something to do with the low compression but as old as this bike is and as sad of shape as shee was in when I got it, I think it's due for some engine work. What I intend to do is purchase the following: New studs for the jugs / case New cylinder gaskets both sides New head gasket A cool head (if i can work that into the budget) New Pistons New Piston Rings New Wrist Pins & Clips New Cylinder Seals New Intake Manifold (the old one has some cracks but I don't think they're leaking just yet.) Did I miss anything? If these things are anything like a car I probably need to do something to the bottom end as well... what do you suggest I do / inspect / look for? Do I need to replace the connecting rod when I do this?

Bought some pod filters for my stock carbs off Tony, was great to deal with and they got here right when I needed them! Arrived well packed and exactly as described, thanks a ton man!

Your CDI/Stator are pretty much hit or miss items meaning they're either good or bad, (there are some cases where they've caused funky issues) however; most of the time they're either good or bad. That being said, we need to know what's done to the bike. Such as: 1) K&N Air filter or something besides stock 2) Aftermarket Pipes? 3) Other than stock carbs? Anything that could cause a change in airflow or fuel delivery. Other Questions: 1) Since you've had the carbs off what size jets are currently in them? Both pilot & main 2) What elevation above sea level are you? 3) What's the ambient temp there? 4) Is the choke tube connected? (Black rubber hose that connects between the carbs) 5) Are the carbs syncd? (Since theres two carbs on the banshee they have to open at EXACTLY the same time for optimal performance, there are tools for this or you can do it by sight/feel. When you press the throttle you should see both slides move at the exact same time. If they don't you'll need to adjust the adjuster nut on one or both carbs until they're both opening at the same moment. If all that checks out your jetting is probably off, by providing us with the information above we can help you select proper jetting to get the bike dialed in.

The lights i'm using on my shee are Mr16 style bulbs, Triple LED 6k Light Temp I modified my stock lights housings to work with these bulbs and im a lot happier over the stock setup. You probably wont be able to use them with your stock charging system however, they WILL illuminate but when I was testing this thing out free revving with just ONE hooked up fried it. I Added a small Motorcycle battery and just charge it every couple days, my lights last me about 2 nights worth of night riding. 3 Super Flux 2 Watt LEDs Ultra High Output Super Bright LEDs Direct Replacement for Halogen MR16 Bulbs Cool White HID Color 6000K Low Current Draw Lifetime Warranty Against LED Failure 30 Degree Pattern http://www.customdynamics.com/led_mr16_bulb.htm I'm a dealer for their products if you want a set I can get them a bit cheaper than their list cost. LED on left, stock light on right. Sitting side by side a 400 EX my lights illuminate more of a broad area than his lights, but his halogens with reflectors project a little further than mine. I have no trouble at all seeing down dark and twisty trails or across fields at speed.

you shouldn't need anything else since you've already got the tors removed and your thumb throttle, just the cable for carbs with tors eliminated!

I've gotten into the habit of completely cleaning my carbs whenever I have them off, the slide assembly, main/pilot jets and all the passages in between, that way you KNOW they are clean and not causing an issue. I've also had my slide stick open once or twice early on when first started messing with this thing, I blame it on just cleaning the jets and didn't take the 30 seconds it takes to spray off and wipe down the slides. You'll also need to make sure they're syncronized (easiest way is with a carb sync tool) otherwise you'll have a really sluggish take off/bottom end) Nothing quite as annoying as half cleaning your carbs hopping on and going for a short ride to only find out you have to tear the whole thing right back down because they weren't completely clean! If your throttle response is off it could be your carbs are out of sync now, with the carbs in place press the throttle a few times while looking into the throat of the carbs, you should see both slides move at exactly the same time. If not then adjust the adjusting nuts on top of the carbs to get them back in sync.

See those big black boxes on top of the carbs in that picture?? If you do NOT have these a stock cable from yamaha will not work. If you do have these the cable will work however I suggest getting a TORS elimination kit and getting rid of them, they make tuning your bike a real pain in the ass and are notorious for causing no-start conditions.

Wow man... He didn't change pistons..... why is his piston size relevant since they're the same ones hes been running? Swapping the plug wires does a couple of things, if the problem moves then it's NOT a fouled spark plug. There are resistors in the spark plug boots and if they go bad they can cause issues. So swapping the plug wires is still a good idea for finding his problem. Then swapping plugs would verify that he had a dead plug if the problem moved. If the problem still lies in the same cylinder its time to pull the carbs off and clean them and check the intake boots/crossover tube for a leak it's the only things left. It was running fine, then he swapped heads and now it wont idle, how did he twist the crank changing the head? @fouled pilot jet is a good guess too I was getting there

yeah 160 is up there! what size domes did you buy for the head?! If the problem didn't move and you have good compression on both sides then that leaves fuel or spark, swap your spark plugs now to see if the problem moves, if it does then you have a fouled/bad plug.. if it doesen't move you've probably got something going on with that other carb. but before you do any more testing be sure you verify your compression and read the PSI and not some other scale. If you're really at 160 PSI and not running race gas get whatever fuel you have in it now out and go find some race gas. If you don't wish to run race gas you're going to need to lower the compression probably by switching the domes out.

$41,000 sounds a little steep to me.... Do a compression check to be sure on the compression and key switches are often removed they're not really much theft deterrent and end up being one more place to troubleshoot if you have a no start condition.

X2 on replacing the exhaust o-rings they're pretty cheap. Both cylinders firing all the time? if not the oil/gas could be building up causing more of it to be visible than normal, if you've got a misfire/random misfire it can even come all the way out the pipes depending on how old your silencer packing is.

Silencer repacking is very easy. 1) remove your silencers 2) remove the screws in the end of the silencer 3) slide the casing off of the silencer 4) clean out any old packing material 5) wrap new packing material around pipe 6) slide casing over insulation & pipe 7) re install screws 8) re install silencers Repacking mine made a HUGE difference in sound (for the better) it quietened down to a much nicer level. Next time you re-pack them skip buying the stuff from FMF or anyone else and grab yourself some fiberglass insulation at your local lowes or hardware store. FMF packing is only enough to do your silencers once for about $10.... For the same money you can get 40 square feet of R-13 insulation that will let you re-pack your silencers 20 times or more! If you're gonna use insulation, just lay it out on the shop floor, disassemble your silencer and lay the part with the pipe over the insulation, using a razor knife cut the insulation to fit between the front of the silencer and rear plate then roll it so it goes around the silencer and overlaps about two inches... Trim it off and close up the silencer as normal.

1) Are both plugs in good tight? 2) Are both cylinders firing? If you can keep it running long enough check to see if you can feel the exhaust coming out of both pipes, it should feel the same, not one side weaker than the other. 3) Since you had the head off do you have an air leak on one cylinder? - Do a compression check to ensure that you've got good compression on both sides If only 1 cylinder is firing swap the plug wires to see if the problem moves, if it moves then your coil or spark plug caps could be faulty, if it doesn't then the plug or a loss of compression might be the culprit. Check these and get back to us! If none of those are the problem are you getting fuel from the carbs? (plugs wet with fuel)

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/bar/1941526144.html at least it has pipes!

Looking around to see if anyone has a set of pods that will fit stock mikuni carbs.. If you would like to part with instead of me buying a brand new set.. Let me know a price! Need them shipped to 28147

My 87 started out looking like this: After a lot of tearing apart, sanding, refinishing and putting back together shee looks like this: