Jereme6655

warm bike up......pull old plugs out and pu tin NEW plugs. then fire it up nd hammer it from 1-6th. when you hit the top of 6th pull clutch like stated earlier and kill engine and coast to stop. remove those plugs and put original plugs back in it and ride back to your shop. then cut the threads off of the test plugs.

Blow up view.... http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/model_years/4783-yamaha-2001-banshee-yfz350n/assemblies/140686-transmission

Still the same.....make sure it holds the 6psi for at least 6 minutes..

Hahaha.....hey windy....what do you think the carnage would look like? IF you could keep the crank happy and the motor from eating itself......I'd like to try something with that much compression.....seems like it could be a little fun....lol

Well..... You could go with a 4mil stock cylinder ported bike... But heres basically the breakdown... Serval....More of a well rounded power.....the power band comes on much lower than most aftermarket cylinders and still has great top end. Cub.....has great top end but it's real peaky....it doesn't do well if you like low rpms. Wampus..... It's basically a wolf in sheeps clothing. It's a drag setup aftermarket cylinder that LOOKS very similar to stock jugs....basically it was designed for grudge style street racing.

Are you talking about the very bottom of the cases? Or are you talking on the bottom of the cylinders? If your taking on the bottom of the motor your looking for motor braces.........if your talking on the bottom of the cylinders then you need water plugs which the site sponsors sell.

Ive heard both....6 psi for 6 minutes allowing 1 psi drop per minute.....and 6psi for 6 minutes 1 psi drop in all 6 minutes. This is what I do...... I take my time prepping the cases and I always wipe down the mating surfaces with some mineral spirits or carb cleaner and then apply the sealant. Take your time with the sealant because if you goof it and don't get it to seal right then you get the fun of splitting the cases again and peeling all that shit off all over again. So just take your time..........and when I leak test mine......I don't let it go back in the bike if it leaks more than 1 psi in 20 minutes. I know....picky huh?

To with a 4mil stock jug from Jeff at FAST......have him port your jugs while he's at it. It's either that or go with a serval top end.......the cub is more top end so it does better as a dragonet than a trail usable port

Also check that the crossover tube between the stock carbs is in place......

Difference between having your hand hit by a hammer and your hand being hit my a 8lb sledge. It's a hell of a lot more hit

Ok.....first try a magic eraser. The things Actually do work wonders......I use them on my finances white z400 plastics all the time. Works great. If there is some really nasty stuff on it that is more soaked in with the coloring other than being just on the surface.........try this.....in a VERY inconicuous spot as we use it on paint and gel-coat.....but never tried it on plastics...............toilet bowl cleaner. Yup....toilet bowl cleaner........we use it to remove rust stains and also use it to remove bottom paint dust that has settled on a smooth finish of a boat and gotten wet as the color will leach out and stain the boat. Put a little on a rag and use rubber gloves to keep the acid in it from burning you......just rub a little on area and see if that does.

What SHOULD be done to get it bored.......it should be taken to a machine shop specializing in bore/honing of cyinders. There they will use a bore mic and measure the size of the cylinder walls......from there they will make the call on how far they should have to bore it over to achieve the smooth straight gore they need. They will then order in the pistons.......and when the pistons arrive they will then measure the pistons and THEN bore the cylinders to each pistons exact size requirements. What fouledout is talking about is the difference between cast and forged pistons.......each type (cast/forged) requires different boring tolerances when machined......

Seal/bearing pullers always make the job easier

What in the hell is that in? That is absolutely awesome.....especially how the trans has to be split. All I gotta say is that things gotta get to be a handful for someone learning to drive it. that you driving? If it is.....damn good job man.....not many people I know can match rpm to speed well enough to downshift without the clutch.

Farmandsandtoys.com

Under your gas tank on the left side towards the front of the bike.......there is a little black box. Disconnect that black box.....it Is the BRAIN of the TORS unit. Then make sure there is a small black tube n place between the two carbs......there are nipples that this tube goes on.......this is your choke tube.....it uses vacuum pressure to enable the choke on the right carb. They usually refuse to start if you knock this loose or forget to put the choke tube back on.

Sounds like you may have welded your clutch rod to the ball. Pull your cutch off and try to see if you can sneak them out together......if not then your gonna have to split the cases and then try to remove it.

X2 .....they are bent and meant to be bent.....I guarantee if you try and straighten that piece you will be buying a new one because the sidewall will split open.

Wiseco Pro-lites FTW.......

Ill give you $50 and pay shipping for it... Haha....but in all actuality......yes it's probably worth the rebuild. Granted.....the cases could be broke and the crank could be junk and the jugs could all be bored to their maximum limits......at which case the clutch and tranny would be the only things good still...... But it's doubtful that much is wrong.........I'd tear it apart and check EVERY spec you can......I mean shit....the motors 25 years old...

I heard that their pipes pretty much didn't make any likable power

It is not brake fluid......first off I do nt think there is that much brake fluid in a banshees brake system.....and second ..... There are places that he claims oil is on thqt is no where near a brake system...

You check to make sure your flywheel is stil on? A sheered key can cause the flywheel to come off the tapered end and then not be press fit to spin when the motor cranks over...

What it sounds like to me is that your TORS or your parking brake switch is causing the problem. Look at the parking brake on the handle bar......if there are 2 wires coming out of it you can cut them to keep it from failing. With the TORS .....look under the left side of the gas tank towards the front of the bike....you should see a little black box.....unplug it. That is the throttle over ride system "brain" and when the black box itself is disconnected from the rest of the wiring it disables the TORS.

Amen buddy......been there with the rigged up stuff. Hell had to use a massive die from a tap/die set to hold the sprocket on once....