Jereme6655

/\ Windy just made the best point so far. who knows where cp may take us or where another sponsor is gonna shine. hell for all we know we could be managing to pull real close to triple digits on pump fuels in 3-8 years from now.

youll be fine. if anything i may say just put the top end together dry and then pull the head off before firing it when you return....just to ensure you dont have a stuck ring from assembly lube. other than that they'll last almost indefinately.

There ya go. now your starting to fit in like one of the fucktards that most of us have become....

Yup 1shee.....Matt's been around the block. And he's a site sponsor......but I have one question for ya......what is "F#!K"? I think your mistaking us for other forums......which will get you no where. Lol.....here we don't give a shit what the fuck gets said in the posts. Drop the f bomb......call someone a shit head.........this forum has WAY more people who would rather have a good time and figure shit out than worry about a word.... But good job on the info.

Like Burt said. You don't get the choice. And also .010mm is .025 inches. Take it to a reputable machine shop if you don't want to go to a site sponsor like we are gonna suggest..... They will measure your bore THEN order pistons. When the pistons come in they will measure the pistons THEN bore your jugs to match each piston.

If it gets hot enough it can cause damage to the pistons at the crown on the exhaust side.....look at the other piston and see if it shows signs also.....look very close. Yes being over richly rich can kill motors. T6 pipes are for stock port motors. And say running t6 pipes and no lid I would THINK you should be somewhere in the realm of 280 for a main and possibly a 27.5 for a pilot jet.....

Nope.....doesn't matter. Plug the intakes and exhaust like shown and pump It up. No more than 6psi total. And onto more than 1psi drop per minute. Run test for AT LEAST 6 minutes. Personally I don't trust 1psi per minute.......I find any leak and make sure it doesn't leak ......I've held 6 psi for over an hour.

Which the color thing is kinda awkward.........anyone see the water jugs that are made "specifically" for portable safe drinking water? It's a damn blue can with no hose........I'm sure someone out there has filled one with water and tried a glass and wound up lubing their insides with a layer of kerosene.

Wait wait wait.....you didn't pull the head? What you blew the motor up and pulled the jugs off and left the head on? Ad THEN you pulled the cases apart and pulled the crank out and cleaned everything.......all without deciding to take off 10 bolts and look to see if there was deto damage to the head?????

Next time you get the bike together swap spark plug boots to see if the problem will follow the plug wire. This will eliminate whether it is a problem with fuel or electrical....

Correct....the colder it is the more dense air becomes. The more dense it is means there are more air molecules in a specific area of volume at say 32*F than there is at 80*F. This means that the more dense air is.....the more fuel you need to run. Amount of fuel.....not octane. That's why we advise changing jets when the weather changes drastically. Don't get me wrong.....octane and air temp do play in with each other......but barely.

She may be idling high either because the idle is set too high or because the bike is running a little lean (remember 2 strokes like to rev when they lean out) If you look at the top of the carb boxes (TORS) there should be a large screw/knob on the top.........this is your factory idle adjust. Mke sure to adjust them equally.

Nope......the flywheel is not immersed in trans oil. It sits behind the left side cover and spins around the stator and pickup......does not come anywhere near the oil. If their actually IS shavings from your sheared flywheel key then I'd have to scratch my head and tell you that you have some serious issues other than just a loose flywheel Hahaha

why not try a plug chop to see if its lean? also you should find out what jets are in it and tell us.....at least then we can try to get you close to where it should be.

Jason.....the +4 crank is gonna really help that bike with power.....HOWEVER....going with the largest pistons you can fit will NOT help. You do NOT want to waste bore sizes on the pursuit of power.....2 strokes don't see much power at all from that. When it comes to heads.....you can find decent shape heads on here (stock) for about $15-20. However if you want a +4 crank.....you should go with a aftermarket head with interchangeable domes. You can usually pick one up on here for around $100. You will want your cylinders ported for the +4 crank too.....that will really wake that motor up.

Haha ya I know the clutch creates frictional heat......but the OP said its hot enough that he can't touch it with his hand.....I didn think the clutch was capable to produce that much heat and still function as a clutch....

Mud is the only issue. Other than that I have never been hit by a rock kicked up be my own bike. Others bikes......well....thats a different story...

true you do have oil in your engine cases......but the trans oil is seperated from the combustion side of the cases.....so yes you will get some heat from that, but not alot of heat...your gears should not be creating enough frictional force to generate that much heat.

Holy shit.......if its not smashing solder then you have some serious issues. IIRC I believe the solder itself is 2mm thick. I would find a different compression tester......just to be sure. I don't think the length of the hose can give issues as long as the schrader valve at the end of the hose is still good....it should just fill the hose and then let the next cranking compress what is trapped in the hose. If 80 is correct.....you need a bore and hone BAD. I've seen 80 psi not be even able to start on dirt bikes.....

Uh......your water pump is located in your clutch cover.....so coolant flows through it.....

The banshee's ignition system is setup as a waste spark system......when it sparks it sparks both plugs at the same time. That's why we always suggest people swap plug wires on the jugs to help eliminate whether they are having a ignition problem or a fuel problem. question is why is your bike only firing one plug..... have you tried checking the ignition system with a ohm meter? The easist thing to replace is the plug wires which alot of guys have had issues with before. If the resistance in one of your wires is too high it could keep it from sparking.... report back with your findings

thanks for all the info guys.....exactly what i was hoping for.

i mean dont get me wrong here.....typo's and a few odd mispelled words end up online all the time.......but fuck me...how have you gotten through life so far with thinking words get spelled like that? Maiking? Wich?

stroker crank with completely stock head would make the piston kiss the head. Take a dowel.....put motor at TDC and insert dowel and mark it........then rotate motor to BDC and mark it again.....pull out dowel and measure.....that's the easiest way to find out if its a stroker or not without spliting the cases.

1) A leakdown test would not tell you that you have a bad seal in the transmission area as it only pressurizes the crank area. 2) Oil blowing out the pipes at the cylinders is a common issue.....alot of the time its just the o-ring in the pipe flange that needs replacing. If its alot of oil it could be the ratio or type of oil that your using that is also causing issues. 3) Since you already need a new seal.....get a seal kit for the lower end and replace them all. Also you should look into getting a billet waterpump as stock plastic ones tend to fail and melt motors. 4) You should.....i say SHOULD be able to split the cases without taking off the top end....ive never had to do it for that....but i have done it for swapping tranny shafts. Your clutch arm seal is gonna be a little harder with the top end on. Also just pay real close attention when slipping the pistons back in the jugs. 5) No. No...and FUCK NO........you should NEVER buy anything from Trinity. It would be like voluntarily putting your dick in a rabid dogs mouth.....no matter what happens.....your not going to admit it after you did it. Trinity has a bad name around here for their motor setups.....so everyone avoids them like the clap. Jereme