Jereme6655

you should be good to do a WOT run......MAKE SURE you have gutted your gas cap though. When you start moding these things you should go ahead and flip the cap over and remove the screws and pull the guts (anti-spill roll over valve) out to ensure that there are no restrictions on the fuel system.

your 280 main should ROUGHLY be alright.....good starting point on the main at least. and the pilot should be running around a 27.5 (your fmf pipes seem to really like 27.5) is getting dirt in your motor bad? HELL ya its terrible....however if your compression is at 122 and 124.....that's not bad at all. These things usually wind up around 125psi per side when they've gotten a fresh rebuild.

holy shit......check this. Guy must me one hell of a rider.......claims hes got the "799 cheetah kit" BAHAHAHAHA

make sure your essentric screw is adjusted correctly so that it fully engages each gear with a shift pedal lift or push..... but yes the banshee transmissions begin to have an issue finding a "false" neutral when you start making more and more power. Like said above...if the adjustments don't work....your gonna need to get your tranny cut. The issue is not your clutch slipping.

but the smoke is white so its not a seal... the white smoke could be from a bad head gasket......leaking coolant going into a cylinder will burn off as white smoke. also....the amount of smoke issue could be the carbs being out of sync....

if it is winter time and the bike is jetted to run right at say 70* then it can also be your jetting as you will be lean making the bike hard to start.

/\ I gotta agree with dirty. Also....if you do get your motor ported....it will naturally cause your compression to drop some. Nothing to be worried about though.....it happens when the engine builders have to raise the exhaust ports to flow more through the ports. The stock carbs and 28s will be definitely good for a stock motor or even ported motor bike. Hell....im running a dune/play port with 20cc domes kicking 156 psi per jug and I run stock carbs.... The stock carbs are really over rated......true they could flow more on the top end....but they'll handle all the way up to around 70hp motors before they start to fall behind in the ability to support the power. Jereme

you would still be able to use the carbs like they were stock. the big knob on the top of the boxes is your idle control....

carb size doesn't dictate what size domes you can/cant run....

no one wants fred flinstone brakes......

Seeing if anybody out there could be willing to trade me my Power Core 2's, some stock carbs and some stock front shocks for some turbine core 2s. Jereme

only 139 and 145 running 19cc domes? wow. im at 1100ft.....running a dune/play port with 20cc domes and I was kickin 156 each side. im wondering if your rings are so sloppy that your fighting blow by. Id try closing that gap like previously stated to .018 and then new plugs. agree on the br8es plugs

Throttle Over Ride System. Meant to limit the ignition if the carb slides stick open and the thumb throttle is released. -Realistically works on a basis of causing all sorts of bad shit to happen and leaving you with a bike that barely runs in the middle of somewhere.....far...far from home.

DEFINATELY rip that apart and fix it.....it can do some serious damage in there.

Hey savage....Ive had this in the back of my head since you posted it.....im wondering if you capped one end of the bars with a silicone plug then filled it with a heavy weight oil or thick thick fluid and then make another silicone plug and forced it into the bar to seal it......wondering if that would dampen better than just solid silicone throughout the bars.....

Oh boy. This should be in the jetting section.....but we'll help. What is your entire setup.....what pipes, air filter....everything. also you should be around a 27.5 pilot.....and no where near a 240. Also what is your elevation.....and your kicking compression. Im asking because a 19cc dome is a seriously high compression dome for pump fuels unless you have altitude effecting you that much.

the guys at the local bike shop here use hair spray to help slide the grips on and say it locks them on tight when the hair spray dries......at least makes sense in theory....

well what mods does your bike have that you KNOW about. odds of having a override are way small if your bike is not a drag bike. Usually the cranks that break the connecting rod near the big end is due to either poor manufacturing (on mostly aftermarket cranks) abuse, neglect, and SOMETIMES......just plain bad luck.

Pods don't do too well being flung with water/mud. They give better performance.....but less protection. Upgrade those shocks and I guarantee you'll love it. Well worth the money. And if you look around you can find some good deals on works shocks.....I think I paid 140 for my tripple$ rates and matt from socal rebuilt em. I can't remember his price but it was DEFINITELY affordable. Also take those shock covers off.....they do nothing but hold moisture and damage your shocks.

Yea it'll give it more power.....it will help kick that bike in the ass when you squeeze that throttle. HOWEVER......you gotta watch your compression levels as you can go over what pump fuels are able to run without detonation. I know im at 1000' and im running a FAST play/dune port, fmf fatties, vf2's and pods and 20cc domes give me 158 psi of compression.....which is getting CLOSE to being too much for comfort. also you may want to pull your motor down and have your crank trued and welded so that it doesn't separate. Adding compression is hell on a crank that is not welded....

Hell at 90psi your gonna have a hard time kicking it over to start it.....not saying its not possible.....just going to be a struggle. Now 60psi.....I doubt you could even pull start that shit with a truck.

like said above make sure things are all adjusted properly. also make sure your eccentric screw is adjusted correctly. do you have any shift/trans mods don't at all?

sounds like you have some weak springs. if you don't have to struggle.....and I mean struggle......then your springs have lost their ability to hold your pipes tight. Replace em and try again....there should be no problem with them being held tight to your jugs.

its not any harder than putting together a stock crank motor. All we are saying is you should have the cylinders sent to a site sponsor on here who could take a look at them for you. they'll measure the port timings for you and then tell you whether it was for a +4mil or a +7mil crank.....which will give you some serious answers to questions like should you keep the motor or should you part it out. also it will make it ALOT easier on yourself when selling the cylinders......then someone will know what they are buying and wont be scared off when you say "I don't know what they're setup for"

ok guys....got a few questions.... some of the guys have been on my case about making it to the silver lake hq ride. problem is I don't have sparkys. I have fmf's with pc 2's...... my questions are is it worth trying to get my hands on some turbine core silencers or should I try and find some of the old school sparky add-ons that go on the pc2's? I have a lead on a guy who has a few sets of the add-ons.....but I don't know how well they work or if they have any pro/con's over the turbine cores. don't really want to get rid of the fmf's at the moment.....