Jereme6655

Just do a leakdown test....that will insure you don't have a leaking seal

Depends what your budget is. If your gonna stick with the stock crank......I'd definitely at that point I'd go send that crank off and get it welded. It's usually around $60-75 to ensure it doesn't seperate. Worth the money. Then I'd do some tranny mods but you don't need the cases split to do that....

Ok.....keep it simple. Neutral is real hard to find on stock trannys when the motor is off. Since you said it will move by pulling the clutch in...........the clutch is not your issue. You may have bent a shift fork or something of that nature internally.

Okay......breathe man. Jetting is not hard to change. You have to take the carbs tops off (there is a gold colored lock/screw on the side holding it on from loosening) then. You will needed to remove the fuel lines and the 2 long vent tubes running to the ground. IF your bike still has the TORS (throttle override system) there will be big ass clunky boxes on your carb tops. Next......ONE AT A TIME....remove the 4 screws on the bottom carb bowl to access the inside. There will be a large black float that you will see and a hexagon shaped goldfish colored MAIN JET. This is what needs to e changed. Also look inside one of the small holes and you will see a small gold jet down there....this is your pilot jet........unscrew it and change it.....usually FMF pipes like 27.5 pilots. When the guys are saying your lean/rich they are not referring to your amount of oil mixed with fuel. They are referring to whether your motor is getting enough fuel or too much fuel. With those pipes and stock jetting you are most certainly starving the bike for fuel (running lean) which is why it's falling on its ass up in the rpm. You need to know what altitude your location is at in order for us to get you close to your correct jetting.....as jetting all depends on amount of air/fuel your motor can breathe in. The higher your location is in altitude the less air molecules there are per any given volume so you need less fuel to mix with the air......this is why we need to know your altitude.

Wait wait wait. First.......when you did your compression test.......did you hold the throttle wide open and continue to kick until the compression stopped rising?

Haha.....good catch man. I goofed that one up....... Yes I meant chariot. But said noss.............chariot is the 1 piece

That would be like taking info from a politician about how the hell a toilet works. Sometimes it's better to go to a GOOD source of info instead of listening to people who like to talk because they THINK they know. 99% of people here will tell you that your bike is worse off with that trinity cancer on it than it is being stock. Do yourself a favor and call a site sponsor on here. There is a list of all our sponsors on the website. Avoid trinity. Our sponsors eat sleep and breathe power out of these motors. To the point where theyve learned to FIX trinitys problems with the cheetahs that were causing them to blow up. Funny how trinity still hasnt....... Regardless.......call a site sponsor on here and tell them about your bike and whatnot.......you'll walk away with a better running, more powerful bike.

The cool head will give you more than the Cdi. You won't need a Cdi unless your trying to get every single ounce of power out of your bike like the drag guys. Word to the wise......the Prodesign coolhead is a 2 piece design.....it can be a little bit of a bitch to go through the two pieces and all the damn o-rings. However the Chariot coolhead (he's a sponsor on here) has almost the same head except his is a single piece design which is WAY more easy to deal with. He can also cut you custome domes and give you info on what domes to run. I have a Prodesign........and I wish I had a chariot ......

The long rod crank is just like it says....it uses long rods. The theory behind this is that it helps with the longevity of the cylinders as the angle of the connecting rod to piston is decreased putting less side pressure on the piston to push on the cylinder wall. That being said I can't think of anyone that I have heard of saying "my top end wore out fast cause of my stock length connecting rods." There is also a supposed down and upside to the difference in rod lengths......the long rods are said to help longevity but SLIGHTLY decrease the quickness that the motor revs. However the stock rod crank is said to rev up quicker.....

Ok.....explain everything it is doing again........some of us have no clue as to what your bikes doing right now.

A lot of it has to also do with dome shape, piston shape, squish levels, and remember......chainsaws are not reed valve motors....these are. I run 20 cc domes in a dune/play port y Jeff at FAST racing and it kicks 156 and I have no signs of deto. Really wakes up that motor in the lower to mid.

Cold be something such as poor fuel as you said that he mentioned one of the plugs was loose.......usually plugs only back out when there is detonation going on in the cylinders. Which is usually caused by too little octane fuel. If the plug were to meme part out and create a leak it would cause that specific side lean out and seize. I would suggest doing a leakdown anyways just to make sure that is the only leak. I mean how much of an ass are you gonna feel like (not that you are) if you get the motor back together and smoke the rebuild again due to a leak that wasnt there before he harrowed your bike?

It didn't just come off as there is a bolt the goes through it to hold it down......

Nope.....125 is good compression.

Also have you made sure you put your choke tube back in place and are your carb slides in the correct carbs?

Ok....first grammar.....clickez is not a word and terrible grammar will get you no where with good help on bhq. The banshee trans will not like to shift while just sitting there and not spinning. Try rotating the clutch assembly while you shift it through a few gears. Also make sure your eccentric screw is adjusted accordingly. If your unsure about most of this stuff, a clymers manual will help you immensely.

Having issues with backing in your trailer???

Radiator caps have psi ratings...... Usually 16psi is what is found. That being said.....when pressure gets involved with a fluid that takes heat such as coolant it will actually cause the liquids boiling point to rise. Biling liquids are never good in cooling systems. When coolant getsut under pressure your coolant will raise the boiling point (make it harder to boil) 3 degrees for every 1 psi that you put to the coolant. So 16psi cap......let's say regular boiling point of 50/50 coolant to be 230.....plus the 48 extra degrees..... Now you have coolant that will not boil until it hits 278 degrees. Also a lot of older style radiator caps have that mid way clamp down on it when you tighten it.....you know its where it's on but it's floppy as hell and doesn't seal? That is actually a cap setting also. Say you have a coolant leak that's is formed from the pressure.....you can actually leave your cap half on and eliminate the pressure buildup in your cooling system.....however your coolant does not get that pressure to help eliminate boiling.

Better throttle response and also supposed to give you a small amount more of power....... Vf2 run good.....just gotta deal with making sure they don't let a screw loose into your motor Vf3 was made to get rid of the screws however the air flow was a little worse than the vf2s Vf4 have just been released and they are claimed to make the same flow numbers as the vf2s but without any screws....

I always clamp the front down by the frame and put some pressure on it......don't compress it all though. Then the rear I always tie it down by the rear axle. I always keep the quad in gear and shut the fuel off also. I've seen goofy things happen when you keep fuel lines on while trailering.......hell......even seen a modified sled fill an entire exhaust from overflowing carbs when it got trailed with the fuel on.

Well....what's the word... any date on the next runs?

1) Lorena Bobbit 2) drowning/burning to death 3) getting my hand mixed up in a running motor 4) picture of guys at LS that are passed out with their pants down....

Pipe bolts and peg bolts.....gonna be damn hard to shift that shifter if your peg is gone....

I wince every time I see that banshee snap like a twig on that burm. Rear axle just ripped off like it wasn't even supposed to be there.

Well they say you need to hold 6psi for 6 minutes with nothing more than a loss of 1psi per minute. That being said I've sealed mine and still had 6 psi after 5 hours.......but I'm a little weird about making sure they seal. If it was sit holding 2 psi from the previous night you are WAY more than safe to run that motor without worry of the leakdown test.