Larry's Shee

Do you mean a J-arm? Bushings and ball joints probably toast

I'd use a new c-clip also.

Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds

Might help if you descrie how it's runing, what the plugs look like and exact jetting in carbs now. Or as Savage 420 mentioned start more threads

RE: snipers

Shit, ought to be able to get a set pretty cheap, still better than fatties

300-310m, 27.5p, 1 1/2 on a/s, middle clip. Plug chop or plug read to confirm

A Shee is the easiest trans to work on, everything just lays in the case. Can even do it without taking jugs off. Just hold crank to top case half with tie down strap. Check the walk through, get a clymers or download a manual. To quote Savage " So easy a caveman can do it" he's right, I've done it twice.

Well, the "spare" pieces might have been interfering with something. Could have gotten a new bushing for gear. Start with cleaning carbs and setting floats. Slides and bowls are carb specific, don't mix them up (stock carbs). Inspect shift pawl (claw) on shift shaft for wear sloppiness, replace shaft if necessary. BTW, Welcome !!!

Either the clutch or tires are slipping. Have you checked the trans oil? When was it changed last? Clutch adjustment good? If you can, get going on pavement up to 4th without winding it out , roll along then pin the throttle, if clutch is slipping the engine will wind out but you won't be accelerating.

Probably right Jereme. Hopefully he leaktests before tear down, as obviously it had deto.

Fresh bore has nothing to do with jetting. Did it run like this before top end? Did you do a leakdown test and re-torque the head/jugs? Clean the carbs puss clean and that doesn't mean a quick douche, take everything apart. Be sure petcock, carb vents, and tank vent are clean/open. What do the plugs look like? Is air filter clean? No mouse nests in silencers? Quick check is when it gets to the "flat" spot is pull choke out half way. If it gets better you're lean, worse to rich, this ALL depends on everything else being ok.

Clean both carbs pussy clean. That means taking them comepletely apart. Set float height, Sync carbs, new plugs, leak down test. Has coolant gone down ? No offense to you or the race car builder, but RTV is not the proper/prefered sealent. Yamabond or 3bond for case halves.

87 warrior joints screw in

maybe just spring color

Thanks, they were gone in a heart beat, $125 , doesn't surprise me

Or maybe the end of shaft is burred from sloppy bushing causing weird push against washer/C clip. Just a thought. I don"t have to worry, PO welded the washer to shaft

Truing is the process of making sure it is properly "phased", throws are exactly 180* apart and ends are within runout (centering) tolerances. Welding holds it in tolerance and keeps it from spreading. You replacing pistons after rod failure?

Search function would revel poor feed back. 50% get rid of them, they other 50% won't admit it. Just buy arms made for a Banshee.

Best weld on crank is tig with no/little filler. Clean cases well for 3bond.

or might need the Oring on outside of needle seat.

I'm running Vito's 2 stage, very simular to pro series and more than happy with them.

Are you getting power to coil? Try running a ground wire from coil back to engine.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Dial+a+jet

Do a search, there should be a DIY on slotting stock stator plate, gets you about 4*