Larry's Shee

Damm, and that was his first post. Welcome REDNECK !!

Cute little country rat. Or is that Possum on his wedding day?

As to the crossover tube it"s not needed, realy have no idea what it does. Don't even know if the rz350 street bike has one, which is basically same engine except for power valve. Lots of AM manifolds don't have one. I have determind no adverse affects not running one. Have you pulled a dome to check the CC's yet?

Pimp gas? Are you fucking crazy? It'll rip your dick off and give you herps. LOL What is your elev?

My son's setup: unported 4mil, FMF signatures, Vitos reeds, stock head with 2mil head spacer. 300m 27.5p mid clip, 70*, 1000ft elev. 330m on the ice,near 0*. A boost bottle could be put on a bone stock bike and it would still be considered stock. If you have lever type chokes they are not stock carbs. When you have them off measure inside bore at the engine side. I don't recall which site sponser it was but they had a chart that told how much smaller domes would have to be to keep the same compression from sea level on up. Octain booster is bullshit, adding that IS NOT the same as mixing race gas 50/50 Sorry, but I don't see in this thread where anyone has said your jetting is good. There is a sticky where lots have posted their set-ups and jetting, might want to look through that. Granted that 90% are for under 2000' elev so you would have to compensate there. You can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink.

For one thing dump the boost bottle, it does nothing but crack carb boots, where you may be leaking air. Either get a stock crossover tube or get some pvc caps to fit the holes. That's what I did, installed with Yamabond and clamps. Not knowing what your domes are could be the problem. If you wanted to play it safe put a stock head on until you sort it out. Make sure there are no pits in it and that it's flat and clean. Search the forum on how to build a leak tester.

More info needed: your elevation and PO's relative temps. I'll bet a Buck you're pushing to much compression. If it were me I wouldn't even ride it to do a plug chop until you get it sorted out better. Do a comp and leakdown, then pull a dome and check size. If they are Trinity domes you might not want to use them no matter what, just ask Windy. JMHO, your results may, and will vary.

Cdi and reg go on rear of frame under seat, coil goes up by plugs. Overflow bottle goes on rear of air box, on relocation brkt, or in trash. Your choice.

Got the carbs syncd yet? Free reving with no flat spots isn't the same as driveability. Presume you haven't test rode it yet? Don't think I've seen anyone with smaller than 27.5p on any modded motor. As mentioned the V4s seem to prefer a bigger pilot jet. Might do a search on that, at least check the V3 vs V4 thread at least. Worst/hardest thing is trying to do a plug chop/read for the pilot circut. Maybe check with your builder see what he says.

There is no way to drain anything from the crank area. The trans oil is seperate. It's normal (and good) that there was some oil in the crank area. Hopefuly you leaktested or know why you melted down BEORE you toredown.

Can you say UNOBTAINIUM ?? Seeing that they are exclusive the user fee for say Weisco would be outragous. I highly doubt you'll see it in the ATV world before Zilla gets his EFI done. I don't even see any mention of anyone using Ti parts/pieces.

that linc is only cool head

where you at?

where you at?

Bet it has something to do with choke circut

Well, don't feel bad, some of what you've posted is Greek to me. What switches you talking about? TORS? If so, those have nothing to do with sync. The brick yes. Should have dumped the tors anyhow. Swap all jets as mentioned. Make sure slide cutaway faces air box, they can go in wrong carb. Be sure float bowl with "BB" on front is on choke carb.

Zillo is jealous because he couldn't do his EFI with Mom and Dad's stacks plus 30G

Banshee 14 3/4 YFZ 15 1/2-16 1/4 YFZ 450r 17+ Shit don't work no better than the a arms do

Get a Clymers repair manual, or at least download a manual. So simple even this old caveman can do it. Again, thank you for serving!!

Care to tell who bought this jem? Or you blowin' smoke?

Also the bowls are carb/side specific.

What did you do with the PT's ??

Just re-read all this and realized the mess you got going (actually not going). For diagnostic run a ground wire from the coil back to the engine, maybe right to a stator screw, can always make something permanent later. IIRC the key switch/wires have to make contact, the kill switch wires cannot. Also make sure the TORS brain box is unplugged. Check parking brake circut if you have one, no clue on how to disable it (search function)

Stator poles, inside of flywheel, and timing nubs rust free? Ohmed the stator, coil, and plug caps? ALL wire connections clean and tight, with maybe dab of dielectric grease? Is coil ground clean, bare metal? Ohmed switches for proper function?