Larry's Shee

well, if it ain't broke don't fix it. Starts easy, I see no problem. Might be down a horse or two. Do the wiggle test. If ain't as sloppy as an 8 Mile whore, run it.

Tho Clymers (nor Yamaha FSM) lists a min or max presure, IIRC 125/130 is good on fresh rebuild. Porting, head/dome size, and elevation have an effect on cranking pressure. What are your specifics on these three points? Not flaming, how did you perform test and what kind of tester did you use? You could remove pipes, bring piston down far enough to reach finger in to see/check if piston has a lot of wiggle. Closer to BDC, the less you will detect.

Factory or A M trailer wireing?

compression test before you tore it out of the frame

27.5 P, 2 1/2 turns on screw, clip in middle, plug read/chop. MIGHT be little lean on main.

The piston ring ends have to line up with pin/keeper at the rear of piston. This is to keep the ring from rotating on the piston and dropping the ring end into the ports. Plus, I don't think you can get the piston into the cyl unless the ring is aligned properly.

Isn't this refered to as altitude ?

So many bunched panties. Sometimes seems it would be easier to get info from NASA than about an engine build, especially considering they may be outdated and overpriced. Baker 6 speed, interesting. I've thought something more stought than a Banshee trans as a starting point, R1, R6

Good luck on the peg repair. Depending on the level of your build might be better to leave it as is. Repairing those frame inserts is rather involved. Do a search here or via Google.

Ya, unfortunatly YOU have to provide all information before we can provide suggestions. Was this running last summer? If so 310 maybe 300. Always start large and work down. Either learn how to read plugs, or how to do plug chop. You say sluggish with 320 until full throttle. Does this mean sluggish at 1/2 - 3/4 throttle opening or sluggish until it reaches high RPM ? Lots of difference between the two. You saying it's a bitch to change jets suggests you still have TORS on carbs. Correct?

No idea how I missed that DEEtroit beauty

Might have been faulty ground and changing it "fixed" the ground

So you're saying the engine was running and suddenly started running backwards (reverse)?

Ah, I see. When viewed in the wheelie posistion. So that would make it front and rear A-arms, got it. Try Googling top and bottom swing arm bearings. Standard teminoligy is everything OP.

WTF do you mean by top and bottom bearings ??????????????????????????????

What's the bore size??

changing topic or sidetracking thread. Understood about weather, not worth changing jets every other day. Come on spring !!!!!

Has it been like this since you got it? New plugs? Do a plug read/chop? Main seems bit rich, IMO. Good coil ground? Gap pick up coil? Clean nubs? Clean stator poles?

^^^^^ That happens on every forum, sad

Well duh, sure as fuck ain't an abrasive. Explain how grease with the graphite would be a bad thing. If you happen to slob a little extra grease, wipe it off.

Jetting for weather ain't that hard. From perfect jetting, add or subtract one size for every 20*f change, Micuni carb, plug check/chop to confirm.

Before you buy any jets, find out what you have, list ALL known modifications, elevation and temps you will ride at, and someone will make sure you are close. Support bike under engine @ frame, wheels off ground. Check front suspension and wheel brgs., check swing arm, shock linkage, carrier brgs. Check/lube all cables, chain, grease arms, maybe swinger.

Try posting a linc, don't think you'll find one. Probably a liability issue, or lack of quanity sales. Would think extended/LT J-arms would be available as it wouldn't change the J, only moves lower shock mount.

They could be impregnated with Pussy juice and I'd still grease them. Don't be so lazy. X-2 on the needle brgs, especially on J-arms

Where you at?