Larry's Shee

Prep is the key!! 400-600 wet+dry paper and spend some time at it.

OOOOOps 89-91 125, my bad sorry was still dark here

Sucks all pics are gone Would really like to check it out in person tho Light a under his ass

For 150 get them, and if you don't like 'em, sell them

Looking for 89- 01 rm 125 or 89-93 rm 250 pulse/ pick-up coil or complete stator assembly. Years and models listed are all the same.

Glad to see you're still around U P, thought you were selling out? Maybe it was some other Yooper

Thick skin isn't the word Jereme, To 454, You can lead a horse to water, but Wish I had the coin to say FUCK IT, ride the piss out of it, if it blows I,ll go bigger.. But what do you do when bigger blows up? Small leaks tend to get bigger, some times very rapidly.. Please be sure to post pics of the carnage, if it blows Peace of mind is priceless JMHO, your results may, and will vary

Pull the flywheel and clean the stator poles of the rust that is probably now on them, clean timing lugs on flywheel, set pick-up gap

Clean carbs Wright down jet sizes Set float level Install choke crossover tube Install air filter(s) Install NEW spark plugs Clean timing lugs on flywheel and gap pick-up coil

Unplug the "brain" box, left side under tank. Check fuel delivery, jets, float level.

Best answer I've seen to any ? in a looong time, even from Zilla. Mounting requires a Presidential Solution. The arms don't work because the banshee has less rake than 450 losing caster. Chop an inch off and lose even more.

mouse nest in pipe/silencer

clean carbs, set float level. air filter clean? air screw 1.5 to start with. 27.5 pilot should be good. Main should be 300, 200 is smaller than bone stock, re-check size. what's your fuel/oil ratio? what plug you using?

worn pistons or cylinder caused that. Unless the cyl is within wear specks for out of round/taper, it needs to be bored.

Comepletly clean the carbs, set float level, check flow from tank valve. Sounds like it could be running out of fuel, maybe tank vent? Fuel valve? I prefer to soak them, not just a douche with spray.

Here's my $.02. Used cranks are like used condoms, they're fucked and someone elses mess. When they shit a roller from the rod big end and it makes it's way to the top of the piston, it's not pretty. Ask me how I know this, LOL. You've got to set a budget for your engine, otherwise you'll either run out of money, or won't have the supporting pieces to do it right. One thing that hasen't been mentioned is that depending on the porting, sometimes a stock stroke can't be re-ported for a 4mil. There're several ways to do a 4mil stroker. My son's is an unported stock cyl.long rod with head spacer and FMF signature pipes, makes good power, great tq, especially down low. If I had to choose between porting and a 4mil, I'd get the 4mil and port it later. With porting, you can always take more out, but you can never put it back. BTW, no such thing as stroker pistons, you have stock (short) 110 rods and long 115 rods using the correct pistons for the rod length. Most strokers are long rod, tho you can get them in short rod if wanted (not common). Be sure you are building an engine that will suit your riding style AND area. I presume the trails in Vt. are kinda tight, technical, rocky, muddy. You'll be eating clutches with a light-switch powerband that it seems some are suggesting, JMHO. While Vito's SS piston are good, don't know if they are offered for long rod crank.

Look at the Mikuni pocket tuner shows 1 size for every 20* drop in temps. Better safe than sorry. Might check with others as to possibility of over cooling and cold seizing.

Try Motor City ATV, probably ony $2.99 + $16.99 shiping.

Boost Bottle FTMFCSPFW !!!

The key switch supplies power, the kill switch grounds power

What did you add/change from the last set-up? Dry or humid? Avg riding temps?

Ya, don't know if $900 would buy a bare cyl. Weisco crank, piston, gaskets, bore cost my son about $850 plus two trips to Lakes, drop off/pick-up.

Sorry, can't change seals without splitting cases

Easy as pie. Couple screws on the stator cover, remove shifter. What I described is what I did to eliminate 1 cyl mis-fire. You MUST use a Banshee flywheel puller, 2-3 jaw will ruin your flywheel. Starting with the stator is the best way of diagnosing spark problems. If you want ohm the stator while you're in there. Also make sure flywheel doesn't rattle.

Most have little if any luck replacing coil wires. Even though both plugs fire at same time, it's hard to tell if they're fireing on both comp strokes. Pull flywheel with correct puller , clean rust off stator poles, inside of Fwheel, and timing lugs on outside of wheel. Check there isn't corrosion between stator plate and cases. Gap pick-up coil. Make sure ALL connections are clean and tight, add di-electric grease. Make sure coil mount is bare metal, add di-grease. Better yet is run ground wire from coil back to engine. Are you sure pistons are facing the correct way? Has happened before.