Larry's Shee

You must have a program to alert you every time it's posted

Honestly a Banshee engine is very simple to work on. With a manual if you know which end of a spanner to grab, you're good to go.. If not, look for a local/ non-dealership shop, their rates will be much less labor wise.

Heavy broski

Should ave done a leak test before it was torn down too. Ditch that fukkin boost bottle

Could always get a sport port from some guy in Mass/out east

If you question thereeds or don't know how old they are, wouldn'thurt to check. Good idea would be leak test before you tear it apart, paying particular attention to right side. Flex that boot/manifold looking for cracks/leaks. Make sure slide cap gasket is in good condition. Wouldn't hurt to remove emulsion tube/needle jet when you clean them, make sur holes on sides are open. Sight windows on son's carbs can't see through, so I sync by feel. As to everything exactly the same, if you were more than 1/4 turn different on air screw that might be a problem. One carb body or needle could be worn more/differently. Slide idle screw shouldn't matter as much, unless one slide was 1/8" higher than other. Have you tried new plugs?

Clean carbs again, I prefer Berryman"s carb dip. Take them apart, a quick douche with spray can don't get it. Make sure you can see thru pilot. Make sure compressed air will blow through ALL passages . Set float levels. Recheck sync. Try tweeking right air screw a hair (this is called tuning) One might be 1.5 the other might be 1. 625 turns

Are you turning sprocket shaft while trying to shift?

ve you tried switching plug Wires to see if it follows or stays same? Will tell if it's fuel or electrical problem. While you have plug caps off, ohm them.

Not often someone comes back after solution is reached

And now, the rest of the story

You have the right one now, modified 4mm

Must not have read enough, or you'd have came across all the suggestions Clean carbs one at a time as parts are different but will fit wrong carb.Make sure air will blow through all openings. Set float height. Write down jet sizes and let us know what theyare. Clean petcock. If plugs are nasty try new ones. Make sure tank vent is working or gut the cap. Remove plug boots, trim 1/4" from wire, install with dielectric grease. clean nubs on flywheel and set gap with feeler gage. Do leakdown test. Work down list until fixed or problem found. Also need to know elevation and relative temps

Who did the big bore? They should have to fix on their dime, or give some kind of refund. JMHO, your results may, and will vary.

was going to warn about the grammer Nazis but my head hurt from trying to read it. Thought about being the Nazi, but was tired. Tried reading it again Have you tried new plugs? Even if the yare new, swap plugs one cyl to other, might be bad plug. Clean nubs on flywheel and set gap with feeler gage. Check at both nubs.

Did you actually take them apart and clean and inspect each jet, or did you give it a quick douche with a spray can? Did you blow compressed air through all the holes? Can yo see through the pilot jet? Are holes on emulsion tubes clear? Float bowls on correct carb? They are different. Set float level? Choke tube in place? Was it rejetted for pipes? Air filter? Do you have good spark? New plugs? How long has it set? Did it run 100% the last time it did run? What is your current jetting?

Never heard that before, might have to try them too. I do know I fucked up the float level for two reasons, measured from the rib on the body instead of the flat, and wrong place on float. Caught that when i was taking winter jets out.

Clean the carbs one at a time so you don't mix shit up, set the float level, see what jets, etc are in carbs, ( install choke crossover tube if stock carbs) report back. Not knowing how old plugs are or what oil/ratio was used tells nothing. Do you know what elev it was jetted for previous? Make sure TORS brain and parking brake are discoed.

What would be cool is IF someone with no interest either way built two engines with as near identical port timings/size/shapes as possible, one using 795s (?) and one with these "mirical" pistons. Then dyno them on same day. One thing I do know is South street goes under the Rochester Rd. bridge, and we all know what lives under bridges

That ^^^ is probably the best advice you'll get around here You changed the trans oil, not the motor oil, or you changed brand of pre-mix. Get it right kid Are you using same mix ratio as before? Same grade gas? You could try adjusting idle screws or might have to adjust the air screws a cunt hair. You do know what a cunt hair is , right?

248 area code, where in themitten are you? I think I've heard of dynoedge before.

If your trans oil doesn't look like a chocolate milk shake, do a leak down test. What do your plugs look like? PO must have been jetted way lean, IIRC it's one main jet size for every 1000-1500' change

Can't fix stupid I guess, except with money. What about some of the new cars that have "lifetime" fluid in the trans?