Larry's Shee

check pick-up gap, set float level, trim 1/4" off plug wire and use dielectric grease when installing caps

Did you set float level? What jets are in it now?

First thing to do is make sure carbs are spotless, set float level, and make sure all vent tubes are open. Did you get a real good look at reeds? Then do a plug chop or good plug read. If you don't have a lot of experience tuning, only change one thing at a time. The lid change may actually require a 290 (or 300). Always better to error on the rich side as plugs are cheaper than pistons. Don't recall anyone with stock carbs using anything other than stock needle. Changing could send you chasing your tail for some other tuning issue.

^^^ that too, forgot

Find a parts diagram, Bike Bandit, etc. Probably keeps the arm from working it's way out, or let shit in if halfway out.

Poor man's stroker head/domes. Have the same thing.

No chunks in bottom end?

So you have fres/new bores and pistons? Forged? Have you done a leakdown test? Reason for skipping 310 and 330 sizes? While all engine/setups are simular each can be different and require richer or leaner jetting. Unported 4mil, FMF signature pipes, Vito's dual stage, Weiscos, 300m, 27.5p, middle clip, 1.5 turns (?)

Cranks aren't worth rebuilding unless it's real expensive to start with.

Start by not standing it on end to drain bowls. Pull fuel line from carb open petcock, allow fuel to run for 30+ seconds to insure flow. I have a feeling when you are loading/unloading shit is coming lose and plugging carbs. I'd pull both bowls and look. Pull petcock check screen. Might need to clean tank out. Make sure vent hoses on carbs are clear and gas cap vent works and vent tube is clear.

A leakdown test before dissasembly might point to something that needs to be fixed while down for rebuild. Standard examination procedures such as looking in ex and intake should be a given. pv engines can be a MOFO on leak testing. JMHE

Usually pistons shatter from piston slap/worn hoe. Hopefully you have fresh bore. Have you leakdown tested it? Plug chop/read confirms lean condition?

EASY OUT OR USE LEFT-HAND DRILL BIT

do a leak-down before you tear it apart. pull pipe and look at piston/cyl through exhaust

If it were electrical it would be simular in lower gears. Clean timing nubs on flywheel, set pick-up gap. When you have checked ALL suggestions come back and tell us what you haven't checked, and FFS post up your jets, needle clip, air screw settings. Sounds to me it's running out of fuel at the end. JMHO, your results may,and will vary.

Was this a sudden change? Change when you added stator? What plugs? Carbs clean, float set?

If you want it for ease of jetting (lazy) get a 4poke

Dump the boost bottle. Inspect intake boots to make sure it hasn't cracked them. List your mods and current jetting, temps, elevation. Have you done plug cop? Leakdown? How do plugs look? Clean carbs, set floats. Clean petcock and gas cap vent.

Try starting your own thread. White smoke as nothing to do with your jets. If it smells sweet, it's anti freeze. If stinky out right pipe it's crank seal

Get a Clymers Repair Manual. Depends on wat you want and how much you're going to spend. Bare bones rebuild you assemble will be $8-900

double check carbs are clean. Oter than sync, sounds like dirty pilot. Make sure cables are in splitter corect.

TORS deleted? Or at least unplug "brain box". With slide idle screws backed out, I use my fingers to "feel" that slides rise at same time. Hard/no start could be bad reeds, dirty/plugged carbs, float height, fouled plugs, bad plug caps, weak coil. Because of the "wasted" spark, it's hard to tell if it as good spark on both sides. I suggest cleaning poles on stator, inside of flywheel, and timing nubs on flywheel, then setting pick-up gap with feeler gage. Fuck that business card bull fucking shit.

Proof that HillBilly mods don't work

A Clymers and help here will cost little. I know the guy at that shop, his name is Ben Dover, take it like a man

Any exhaust will require a bit of fitting. Every bike and every pipe is different, washer here, washer there. Have all parts connected before you start tightening bolts down.