06specialedition

Damn thats no good. I hope the Boss aluminum radiators are decent....I have had one for awhile now, just haven't rode with it yet

I would first check your air screws and make sure they are adjusted the same on each side. As for your cousin saying you need a tune up after syncing your carbs, what "tune up" is he talking about? After you sync carbs you don't need to tune anything up . Adjusting your carbs slides by eye works.....but it won't get it exact. The only way to know they are 100% perfect is to use a sync tool IMO. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=59

I run a Stellar +4 and it seems to be lighter than stock. And going to the round house carrier is the only way to have it IMO.

Yeah the mains control quite a bit from 3/4-WFO. I put 320's in and fouled plugs.....310's run hard on top but still are rich enough to be safe. Just remember, the colder temps outside you need a size or so bigger (colder air is denser than warm air), the warmer outside you could drop a size. I could probably get away with 300's and needle in middle, but that would be in the dead heat of the summer...so I stick with 310's and needle on second from blunt for year around. Like Brandon said, at this elevation most bikes run best with needle second notch from the blunt end. Mine was super boggy at mid throttle when my needle was on the center notch. You could even try a 290 main, and needle clip all the way to the top. I've even heard guys running the needles all the way lean out here at 5000ft.

You need to get all your bolt ons before you even think about porting IMO. X2 on carbs, your stockers will run fine up too 70HP. My bike is about 65HP and runs great with the stock carbs.

I've been wondering this too. The stock axle is one heavy bastard. I talked to rockymountain atv about the G Force, they couldn't tell me the exact weight of the axle but they said shipped it weighs 15.99lbs.

Does the bike run good with the 270's in the summer? Maybe its lean because its cold here still. 270-280 should be really really close. My buddy with CPI's, Pod Filters, and Cool Head runs 280's in the summer. To give you an idea my aggressive dune port, CPI's, Vforce 3's, pods, +4 Timing.....etc runs 310 mains in the summer with needle second notch from blunt end. So I would imagine you would be a few sizes smaller than me with stock porting. I would leave the needles on the second notch from the top, and throw your 280's back in, or even some 290's wouldn't hurt. Oil on the end caps is normal, mine does it too. I'd rather be a little rich than too lean. -Zach

Get well Matt

JD hooked me up with a custom number plate that turned out killer. And his rear rotors are top notch as well. Great guy and can make you about anything, will be doing more business in the future for sure! Don't hesitate to buy from him -Zach

Yeah +4 is safe on pump gas no problems. As for the cool head, it really comes down to your elevation and what domes you choose. Yeah the graphics and plastics are all stock on my bike. I love the look, so I haven't put stickers all over it or cut my plastics If your looking for different graphics on your bike I would hit up JD for some: http://www.jdscustoms.com/Yamaha_Banshee_Graphics.htm

X2 with HardLuck, the Tusk bulbs are nice. They are pretty much the exact same as the piaa, but alot cheaper.

It all depends on your elevation. I've always heard anything more than 165ish on compression requires higher octane fuel. Look at this chart towards the bottom of this link: http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm I run 19cc domes on pump gas, but I ride at 5,000FT. You will probably end up with 21's or so IMO.

I can't quote his prices 100%......but I want to say you would be right around $425. Thats not chromed, I think that was powder coated.

I'd run some Stellar +2+1. Give Tim a Call...you won't find better a-arms for the price: http://www.stellarmachineandperformance.com/

Love that white!

A new cable would not make it run rich. Is there anything else you did while it was apart?

With brand new plugs I always tighten them down good to smash the washer.....back them back out a little bit, then tighten down again. Haven't had an issue yet.

Welcome to BansheeHQ Tim. A good start to mods is your basic bolt ons. Pipes, filter set up, cool head or milled head, adjustable timing plate, tors removal kit. Just a few bolt ons will make it a whole new machine. Make sure you properly jet after doing certain motor mods, you don't want to melt your motor down. As for the single carb, I would suggest running the duel setup. Your stock carbs will run up to 65-70HP no problem, and you wont be running those numbers unless you port your cylinders. Like said above 32:1 is good for break in, then you are safe running 40:1. I've always had great luck with Klotz R-50, but its all personal preference.

I would stick with whatever is easier to maintain. But its all personal preference

First thing I would do is hit up Tim at Stellar and talk about your options. https://www.stellarmachineandperformance.com/ For a good all around duner I think +4 is the way to go. Most dune bikes run a 4 or 6 around here, but a 6 is going to be a little harder too dune on compared to the 4. Tim builds some of the best swingarms in the biz IMO.

Damn thats a pretty good one. Glad your pretty much okay

I don't have a DG bumper, but If your interested in a stock one PM me.

+4 or +5 is safe IMO. 98% of guys run +4. I've never had an issue running +5, I wouldn't go higher than that depending on your mods and fuel.

For a low to mid pipe the pro circuits are my favorite. What mods do you have now, just pipes? Gearing can make a big difference on trails.