Burt Reynolds

You could completely remove the water pump gaskets/seals, and still not get water into the cylinder area,it doesnt work like that. If you have coolant in your echaust and cylinders its most likely a head gasket or base gasket issue. If you had a water pump issue you would be getting water into your tranny oil. but running with a leak head gasket/o-ring and sucking in coolant will destroy a top end.

Uhm what?

Your honda tech has sort of a point,honda/yamaha 2 strokes are different brands but definitely the same principle. Your psi is to far out of wack. And you CAN go further than 80 over,you can go 100 over.Just make sure the machinist can do a straight bore! A static psi test only tells you one side of the issue. But if you know what your engine SHOULD be running psi wise,then static psi is a good tool to use to keep an eye on your motor. It may run for a while,but if you let it go to far you could turn your 250 top end job into 500+ complete rebuild. Ive seen people let their motors go to long and have pistons shatter and Completely ruin the entire bottom and top end.

10 psi difference is to much imo,sounds like the 120 side is going out faster,maybe not be whats causin your problem,but to me it would be a definite concern

Ive got a motto about this subject,if you pay over 10 bucks a quart for 2 stroke oil,your wasting your money. I have run yamalube in every bike i have owned from an lt80 to a race gas drag ported 4mil stroker. My motors last just as long if not longer than my buddies that are paying 12-13 bucks a quart,and during rebuilds of all of our bikes,wich i mostly all do myself,because im the community mechanic, I never notice a diffference in cylinder or piston wear.I have seen no difference in plug life or fouling either. Run whatever makes you happy and sleep better,but IMO expensive save the world breakthru super mega tech ultimate oil is just a pricey gimmick. And dont even get me started on tranny oil. We bought a 92 banshee back in 2002,rode to around 2007,dumped yamalube in the gas and cheap ass gas station oil i the tranny with no probs,in fact,that same 92 banshee tranny is now in our 4mil drag bike,still shifting and running fine. And thats with like super generic gas station brand tranny oil

DRag=top end Dune=mid-top Trail=low-mid There are different degrees of each not sure about mx port,i know a few big companys say "mx" port its just a clean up port

Could also be getting unburned fuel in the right pipe,and then it ignites after a while.

Cross of the reed spacers and boost bottle and add a set of CPI in frames and your good

Are we talking engine work vs engine work or a knife fight

Send it out to be checked/trued/welded,if everything is all good and the only thing that happened is slight seperation i would just fix it.

I swear this is going to sound smart ass but i dont mean it that way. If you really want to be competitive gncc wise your going to spend as much modifying your banshee as your would buying a modern quad. If you want to just improve your banshee i would go with aftermarket fron shocks,good tires,and if the throttle bothers you i would personaly install a single carb kit.

crank seal maybe

If your talking about drag racing i have seen some fast as hell renegades,but as far as trail riding,with ohlins and t5's i wouldnt let either of those quads intimidate me

So what was wrong?

That depends on how dry you are putting them in the crankcase. Sometimes ill do bottom ends where i dont even romove the tranny,or i remove and leave it wet,In those cases i wont add anything. But if you have cleaned it out its just to easy not to do. It may only take a second to circulate oil,but it takes even less time to score the hell out of a bearing or gear or tranny shaft. I would never put dry tranny parts or bearings or shifting parts in without some type of oil,even if its as simple as puttin a few drops of atf in a bearing and spinning it by hand. When metal is not lubricated it will score and dissapear fast!

The most important thing about getting them checked is taking it to someone with the right mics to test it. Meaning if you hand it to someone and they only check with with a slide type mic caliper,like an autozone one,then they arent doing it right. Its best to take it to a machinist

First,did you do the psi test right? hold the throttle Wide open and kick it till it wont go higher,like 20 times. Have your cylinders checked for roundess,see if you can get away with a hone.If i just needed rings and hone,i would buy the parts wherever,rmatv/wiseco ect. If you need to bore: I use WSM pistons from ebay,last set i bought was .020 over coated for 120 bucks. I have used them in all my bikes and have never had problems!

I got a trick to getting them in with only a small flat head,but i cant really describe it,i would have to do a video

If your losing oil,bad news!

The 40mm lectron works because it can mimick a smaller carb i was told. 33-35mm carb is ideal on a bike that isnt modded to hell and back. I had a 33 on mine and that seemed to be the sweet spot

dont rebuild the crank just buy a new one!

With those mods at my elevation without porting you would be at 270-280 main and stock pilot.

For my elevation that pilot would be to big,with my 4 mil i ended up with 45 pilots and 165 mains.

Check your intake boots for cracks.

Thank you very much for having a sense of humor about my post. Love my banshees!