Holyman

I've got a good 01 Blaster frame with a title. Will that work?

Is that blue carrier for a round housing swingarm or factory configuration?

How much for the chain?

Get it on some flat pavement and it should tell you the whole story. Like was said the upper steering stem pipe that is in front of the gas tank is very easily bent and it's just about as easy to bend back. As long as the tubing or welds aren't cracked, you should be OK bending it back. Another soft spot is where the A arm mounts to the frame. Look closely at the welds and see if the paint has flaked off. The other really soft spot is the frame rails where the grab bar mounts. This is really more of an appearance problem and it will make the whole quad look tweeked. Bang it back down {or up}. As long as the welds are OK, you can still ride it. If the welds are bad and the frame is significantly bent, look for a replacement or get your local welding shop to repair it. If you had it insured, it's time to cash in. When mine got flipped, the shop I took it to said it is $600 for a frame and 9 hours to exchange the parts at $58 per hour {$522}. plus all new bolts, seals, washers etc. plus new plastic and on and on. I thanked my ins co for the generous payment and I'm still riding it as it was except for the required parts.

How much of a BHQ dicount do we get for telling Trinity that rocket pig sent us???

I'm sure there's no significant difference. All the parts are interchangable and I'm sure the newer frames are still made of the recycled mufflers and old soup cans that the older frames are made of.

I paid $2.79 for low octane swill this morning and it's up to $2.96 on the way home tonight. I swear I'm gonna start takin the friggin scooter to work.

One cop told me to just wait 'til they get in the house and then open fire. It's breaking an entering then.

barbQ'd ribs, cole slaw and an ice cold King Cobra 40

Start with a new cable. My experience is they need to be replaced every few years anyway. If doesn't do it, then you just gotta toughen up a little

Check your entire fuel system. Take off the tank valve, drain the tank, clean the internal screens {better yet remove them and use clear fuel line and inline filters} and check you carb bowls for float function. You may also have an air leak somewhere but I'd check fuel system first.

I've got a Kawi stand up. Send me a couple pic of the banshee... [email protected]

They're both hideous. Have you ever noticed the pets always look like the owner

I've got a whole Blaster bottom & head and misc banshee/RZ stuff.

Aside from the whiney way this kid is going about this, I would suggest listening to the workplace. Dog in the kitchen. No gloves or nets on the cooks. No lunch breaks for employees. There is no way I want some scab pickin' cook servin' me anything especially after he's been feeding table scraps to his pet who is spreading it's butt lickin' diseases around the kitchen. It is also illegal to require hourly workers to go without a lunch break if they are going to work 8 or more hours.

You would need the needle bearings and the gasket set. So far, I'm planning to trade it to GYTWYPT unless you are sure you want to pay for it tonight or tomorrow morning.

Yep, the schrader on the left intake and the gauge on the right intake for example.

Yep it's right!!! about 1/2 the time

http://www.its-titles.com/Al%20Letter.htm They claim you sell the vehicle to them and they title it and sell it back to you with a complete title. I wish I knew about this a couple years ago.

Yeah Ben, I still have that one. So far that kicker wins the award for the worst kicker ever It's rattle free but it's also as close to worn out as I've ever seen.

You need to take the valve out of the bottom of the tank and look at it. There are 2 tues inside the tank... 1 is long and one is short. Somewhere someone cut off the longer one {reserve}. WHile you're in there, make sure there are NO screens on the tubes. Install a clear in-line filter so you can be assured you have fuel flow. I forgot who it was on here {Nyuk I think} who burned up a couple top ends because of lack of fuel due to clogged screens.

You don't need alot of pressure less than 20 pounds should do it for a gasket or seal leak. I can't find the old info. All you need to do is get an expansion type freeze plug that will fit into the exhaust spigots OR you should be able to use the rubber plumbing caps that are used for PVC that have a hose clamp around the edge. The name brand is usually "Fernco" and they sell them at just about every home center in the world. The intake boots should be able to accept a 1-1/2 inch male PVC glue fitting with a 1/2 inch female pipe thread. Install a "T" fitting and install an air gauge in one side of the "T" and a "schrader" tire valve and use a hand pump or REALLY low pressure hose to add air pressure. The clamp on caps should be able to handle 20 pounds. After all that, mix up a batch of dish soap liquid with alot of water and brush it on all the areas you suspect are leaking. If it bubbles and/ or the gauge shows a drop in pressure, you've got your leak. Make sure you have your radiator cap off so you can see bubbles if you're losing pressure there too. Keep in mind that if you have the pressure on one side and the gauge on the other, you have a leak in your crank seal between the cylinders and the crank will need to come out

You plug up both exhaust spigots with air tight plugs and plug up both carb boots and put some air pressure in there. I think meat posted the parts he used... basically simple plumbing fittings. I'll try to find it and post a link.

I aleady did that and it didn't add one drop of gas to the tank. Now I need a new CDI and $100 to fill up the tank.

I'm afraid that without the bar in the middle the back pressure will eventually crack the reeds.