Holyman

I live in an area that doesn't have any kind of high speed internet. I'm wondering why I can't hook up to my dish. Is there such a thing?

You can do whatever you want but I've had more of those "other" rebuilds go into my trash can than I care to count. If you want it done, just send me an email... IHRbearings@peoplepc.com

$125 later, it seems I was 2lbs low on freon. Let's see how this works. One cool thing tho... guy looked just like Sean Connery.

I run the Sabre oil at 80-1 even when it's 20 below and never change jetting. Good AND Cheap. a rare combo. I know a guy who runs it at 200-1 and he's not just some punk kid telling me that just to be cool.

Has anyone received anything from this guy yet? If so I'll take the reeds if they haven't been paid for 15 times already. Send me a pic... IHRbearings@peoplepc.com

I want those MF pipes. Send me an email... IHRbearings@peoplepc.com

Just send it to me with $15 and I'll fix it, paint it and send it back to you. Send me an email... IHRbearings@peoplepc.com

The wife tells me the AC is on but no air is coming out of the vents. After rolling my eyes hard enough to heard from a block away, I got up and found out she was right. I took the cover off the plenum to inspect the guts and found the fins plugged with an eigth inch of lint encased in 1/4" of ice. After I thawed it out and brushed all the fins with a tooth brush, I blew it all out with the air compressor. Today, frozen again even without the lint. It's humid here but not THAT humid. What the heck is going on?

You guys that are whining about who the mods are should be happy. What if I was a moderator? Every thread would be 6000 pages long between 2 people. In fact this one will probably compete withe easter thread for that high honor. All I have to say about the mods is this... they have been open minded enough to keep some un-banshee related threads open under their original headings until they played themselves out. To me, that is what a moderator does... makes sure that the gloves are on most of the time and still keeps the site available to all ages. There is nothing wrong with being opinionated but when you run out of evidence for your opinion and it becomes a my word against yours thing for ever and ever, then personal maturity needs to step in to end it. The moderators should not HAVE to step in if the members of the group are for the group as a whole. This whole discussion seems to have branched out of the Rocket Pipes discussion which collapsed into a my dad can beat up your dad thing a long time ago. I've got my opinions on that which I have posted and left in that thread. The "vote me off the island" thing stikes me as a little prideful and quite frankly unneccesarily dramatic. I suspect there are other aspects of life that are not going well and this is some effort to gain self worth or recognition. Whatever the case, let's go back to riding.

Done deal with 2 stroke smoke. Really nice trustworthy guy. Got a great wife and daughter too. Definitely an asset to BHQ!

Done deal with 2 stroke smoke. Really nice trustworthy guy. Got a great wife and daughter too. Definitely an asset to BHQ! Now let's see if I can cram 488CC's of 2stroke power into a streetable Blaster trike

All out frame pipes will work {of course} I heard the OLD OLD FmF's will work, Paul Turners will work Dynaport and Motofast 2:1's will work because they come out the right side. Otherwise you can put a small dent in the pipe to clear.

mmmmmm thems good eatin' When did you tear it down last, what brand were the pistons, when did you do your last comp check and what premix ratio/brand are you using, what was the color of the crown and head, what filter are you using, carb size/type & intake type? I'm interested to find out what you think caused the failure. Might give the rest of us guys a heads up on how often to check on this stuff and which products to use.

No wonder you haven't been around much lately... been ringin' them doorbells at 7AM on Saturday

You're getting a crossover tube welded into a Graydon 2-1 intake?

The Moto Tassinari VForce3 reed valve system is the number one choice of the Factory teams. Currently more Factory race teams depend on our reed valve technology than all the other brands combined. Our valve incorporates features you won't find with other system on the market. With such features as twice the reed tip surface, adjustable reed stops, radius cage surface and more. By doubling the reed tip surface the petals now only need to open half as far to have the same flow as a stock style cage. This is a significant advantage when you factor in that a reed petal opens and closes 133 times per second at 8,000 rpm. The petals are only traveling half the distance of a stock style cage, so now fatigue to the petal has been greatly reduced, increasing petal life. This design also enables the valve to drastically improve the entire powerband with a significant boost in the bottom and mid. Instant throttle response is an understatement! The petals now sit on a radius surface to create a "pre-loading" effect that improves an already snappy acceleration. Our new cage design now allows the reed petal tips to be recessed into the cage itself. This allows for a cushioning of the reed tips and also discourages the possibility of any back-flow. Every VForce reed valve comes with adjustable reed stops to allow you the ability to change the reed tension in a matter of minutes from high to low. While this is designed to be a fine tuning of the powerband you will certainly notice a difference when adjusting the reed tension. We recommend the low setting for more bottom end and the high to improve top-end power. Changes on the VForce3: While the VForce3 reed valve system may look barely changed for 2004, nothing could be further from the truth. The VForce3 was developed with direct feedback from riders such as Factory Honda

I just took mine out and I lost some of my low end and I got a hesitation at WOT. All I did was take some 5/8" diameter round stock and cut it 1.5" long. About 1/2" will be sticking out the top of the rubber boot. If you don't like it, put the tube back in. Scott... you run a 2:1 right? What are your engine mods again and what kind of riding do you do? As I recall you are running the Keihin 35MM correct?

The timing plate looks exactly like stock but cast with longer holes so there was no indicators that I could find that tell how much I advanced it. There are no compression mods to the stock head. I do have a Noss head that I've never installed {as if that makes a difference } Like I said I'd love to just go with a single carb. Maybe I'll just put the tube back in and see what happens. As little as I ride, I'm really surprised at how worn the cross over tube is. I wonder how many engines blow a year just because of the stupid tube getting a hole in it

Powervalves are built in to aftermarket Banshee cylinders or stock on RZ cylinders. They mechanically adjust the exhaust opening in the cylinder for maximum power thruout the powerband.

I wouldn't bore it out hoping to get more money for it. It's like re-carpeting a house before you sell. Sure it's cleaner but the new people are gonna hate it anyway and you never get the money out of it.

OK guys here goes... I just got the Bansheeworx lightened flywheel with the slots in it. I have to say this thing gives immediate power delivery especially when you're close to the sweet spot in the power band. WOW. I also had a timing advance plate laying around that I installed but I only advanced it about 1/2 as much as it could go. Meaning if it could be advanced 3/8" I advanced it about 3/16" The thing I'm not sure about is the low end. I had recently had the carbs off for cleaning and noticed the cross over tube was getting worn by the hoses and stuff that come across the top of it. So I took it off and plugged the holes with some 5/8" steel rod. I've heard that eliminating the crossover tube will give slightly more top end but I don't remember any comments on low to mid. I ride alot of really rough trails which are broken up by long straight stretches along the RR tracks so I get my share of wide open and crawling. Since the flywheel swap/ timing advance/ crossover tube elimination, it seems that I've lost some bottom and gained furious power band mid but I also notice some bogging at wide open when shifting from lets say 5 to 6th gear. I have no idea what jets I have in there and frankly I'm scared of messing with the jetting. So my question is... is this a crossover tube problem, a flywheel problem, a timing advance problem {BTW how much advance do you think I have???}, a "I don't know how to ride" problem, a jetting problem or a combination of some or all of the above. I really want to convert to a 2:1 intake but I don't want the Trinity since it is actually too small for a 35MM carb. I'm designing one of my own but who knows how long it will take to get that put together Engine mods... Toomey 2:1 filter, Trinity Pipes, Lightened flywheel. {I was told by the guy I bought from that it had Boyeson reeds and 28MM bored carbs but I just found out he lied } So any help is appreciated.

That is so friggin' cheap for all that, it's disgusting. It's worth it just to have it on the shelf.

Hey NYUK... what were the next 2?

So is it accurate? Is that your religion?

With all of the debate in the easter thread and the "don't be stupid" thread, it struck me that alot of people may think they adhere to a specific belief but those beliefs do not adhere to the doctrine of their religion. Then I found this VERY SHORT QUIZ... Click Here XXXXX It is not promoted by any church I am affiliated with but it was interesting that I got a 100% when it came to my religion. So out of curiosity, please take the test and just say how close it is to being accurate. I WILL NOT COMMENT ON YOUR RELIGION in this thread. I'm simply curious as to how accurate the test is for people other than me. The quiz is only 8 questions.