Holyman

I've got some and a set of 2001 blaster shocks. EMAIL me... [email protected]

$108 shipped or I'll trade for the RZ stuff I guess.

Got an RZ engine. Email me if you want pics and a price... [email protected]

Got a good deal from him and he has alot of really healthy chickens too. Great guy to work with.

I've had these sitting around for years and since I have 2 banshees I never ride and 2 RZ engines on the shelf, I doubt I will ever need this set. So I'm open to offers or trades. Shipping will be $8 to anywhere in the US.

There's no way they modify the innards of that. It took me 30 minutes just to butcher it up and the inside is filled with broken glass and silicone. I'll bet they cut the wires and put something in the wire and then cover it up with a new cover over the wires. That would be a no brainer.

I just got some boyeson reeds and noticed that the bottom petal is solid all the way across and the upper reed sits on top of the lower reed. Wouldn't it flow better without the center bar? Anyway has anyone done it?

Got a bad one from one of the HQ guys and I always wanted to see what was inside. Now I know...

I always wondered why everyone says the CDI is not servicable and why it seems the CDI was off limits for modifications. Now I know why. The CDI is encased in a fiber re-enforced plastic case that is stuffed completely full of silicone embedded with quarts chips. After ruining a hack saw blade just to cut the cover open, a half hour later with a heat gun/ screw driver and wirebrush, I arrived at this. An impossibly crammed full circuit board of completely un-identifiable electronics. Absolutely impossible

First off, let's see some pics... Brand new guy trading stuff like that for stock doesn't make sense. Send me some pics and we'll see if you're legit... [email protected]

Now I know you've been to the one near me The roll of quarters is part of the "handling" charge in all my auctions

Well it takes the pounding of a lifetime. I run it all winter HARD and all summer and it never slips and shifts smooth. I get a 2 gallon jug from Farm and Fleet for about $8. So far I've used about a quart. I look at it this way... if it can handle the abuse of moving a huge John Deere around for 14 hours a day in the hot sun, it can handle what I do to it.

I've got a spare or 2. Send me an email... [email protected]

Same oil but I only changed it once in about 2 years. Of course I only ride about once every 2 years so I guess It's due for a change

Sounds like you've been to the one near me Or maybe the bar next to the bus station near me It really is the best way to ship a frame. UPS will not take it here and the greyhound guy in my town wouldn;t care if I threw it in the belly of the bus with grease dripping off of it. All he wanted was the $60. I just went to the furniture store and pulled some cardboard out of the dumpster and wrapped it up. I've done 2 this way and it get's there ASAP even from Chicago to So Cal in a couple days. You don't even have to fill out a million forms. Basically buy a ticket and kiss your loved one goodbye

Check compression and do a leakdown test to see if you have low compression or an air leak. When you say you cleaned your engine, did you do a complete tear down? And what was with all the sealer you were using?

I sent you an email

Belt dressing. A quick spray and it's stuck. In fact the more they try to twist, the stickier the glue gets.

I use the bottom of the line Amsoil which they claim is for general use BUT it is designed to be mixed at 100-1. The last time I checked Blue Duece {now blew duece} was mixing at 128-1 as I recall. Some of the guys that I've talked to as an Amsoil dealer have told me that they only run the 100-1 oil in their highly modified sleds and quads. In fact one guy {not some kid who makes waaay out claims like "my stock quad can beat quads with 10g's in 'em"} said that he ran this same oil at 200-1 then 300-1 and found no negative effects at teardown at the end of the season. Believe me, if the oil was no good it wouldn't last til the end of the day let alone the end of the season. I run mine in the heat of summer 90's to the dead of winter -10's with no jetting changes and no negative effects. The piston crown is clean, the compression is good and there are no problems with starting or overheating. What makes it even better is the oil is CHEAP! An 8oz bottle will mix 5 gallons at 80-1 and 6 gallons at 100-1. that botte is around $2.50. No measuring,just pour it in the can, add gas, ride. Even at 80-1 I still get a little smoke at startup so you know everything is well coated inside for it to have to burn off excess at startup. once it's warmed up, no smoke at all. Which is nice... it doesn't look like a mosquito fogger going down the trail

Post a pic and tell us who did it.

Bought an old school honda scooter Passport 70 and I need a carb. Pretty much any honda 70 carb should fit. Please email me... [email protected]

I'll take as many as you can fit into a Priority Mail flat rate box ($7.70).

One of the biggest problems with the non-synthetic heavy smoke oils is the carbon buildup. Usually the cheap oils leave heavy deposits which cause hot spots in the piston and pre-ignition and exhaust ports. And these deposits are what causes fires in the trails because they become like little pieces of charcoal that can pop out of the pipes. You can buy very affordable synthetics that will give you excellent performance that don't pollute as much as the cheap stuff. I run Amsoil at 80:1.

I believe there are screws on the side and there are two prongs on the side near the front that clip into the airbox. After all that, it still takes a bit of wiggling and twisting.

I'll take the flywheel since you're giving it away. And how did you hook up the handlebar switch to change the Dyna programs?