Holyman

Well the blaster I'm parting out had a piston go bad and I took the easy way out. Flushed it a million times with carb cleaner and wiped it all out with a whole roll of paper otwels. 6 months later the lower crank bearing went out. Way too much of a co-incidence. What happens is if the small bits don't immediately hang up the crank, they slip around in there until they wear down into a wedge shaped piece and they get stuck in between the race and one of the balls. If you are running at 8000 RPMS and the crank can't turn, what happen to the rotating mass of the engine and motion of the ATV? What happens to the power from the ignition of the cylinder? All that pressure comes on the rod which bends and breaks. All it takes is 1 revolution with a broken rod to completely blow the engine apart. The last anshee I parted out had 1 rod come thru the top of the case and get stuck in the bottom of one of the carbs. The other jug aparently rotated a few more times and blew out the front and bottom of the case. For the sake of a few extra hours and gasket sealer, I'd pull it apart. Here's a horror pic for you...

The banshee is prone to throttle sticking during wet riding. We have had a very long and unresolved debate over what causes it. I would just make sure that your new twist throttle cable is routed properly and there is no sand or other foreign junk inside the throttle body or throttle tube. These could be MAJOR problems.

Most banshees will spit a little coolant out on hot days especially on the trails. The coolant you saw on the engine may have been a stray drip from the o-flow hose which comes out above the exhaust pipe. Trace the hoses from the o-flow tank and see if the open drain hose could have dripped where you saw the coolant. This is a very common problem.

Where in the world are you people coming from??? First and foremost, you engine oil has NOTHING to do the piston chunks. There is NO WAY for piston debris to get into the engine oil unless the case is SEVERELY damaged. Second, the crank is not "sealed". The oil/ gas blend surrounds the balls in the bearing and provides ALL lubrication for the crank. If the crank bearings were sealed from the inside, they would fail almost immediately ecause there would be NO lubrication! Third, all the crap that was bouncing around on top of the piston is almost guaranteed to have become embedded in your crank bearings, which again are NOT sealed, and no matter how many gallons of stuff you flush it with, the little fragments could always come back to haunt you later. And if one of the rods break {caused by a pin-head sized bit of piston you didn't flush out getting lodged in the bearing of the crank}, it usually goes straight out the top of the case or the bottom of the case or BOTH {like mine did}. The best thing for you to do is check your intake boots for fine cracks and the back of the boost bottle for a pin hole from rubbing cables. And when you get done with the rebuild, stomp the boost bottle to a pancake and get new intake boots and make sure you get a new crank or at least have your bearings and seals replaced. Yes it will be a little more hassle to do it now BUT it's cheap compared to new cases, double the work and money and pushing your blown banshee back home from the trail.

Now that you guys tipped me off to the idea that there are tire calculators out there, I have gotten even more confused. This site http://www.eunos.com/tirecalc/ says a 170/60-14 is 22" tall. This site http://www.dakota-truck.net/TIRECALC/tirecalc.html says a 254/40-14 is 22" tall. It also says a 170/60-14 is 22" tall. And this site gives me every tire in the warehouse http://ejelta.com/tiresize/index.html?tire...eel=&maxdelta=2

So would a 260-80 give me about 22" high over all and 10" wide?

I must be completely stupid but I can't figure out how to use the darn thing.

I'm trying to find out the widest, lowest profile tire I can get for a 14" rim and I thought a 190-40-14 would be in the neighborhood of 22" tall 10" wide 14" rim but I have no real way of figuring it out.

Sounds like an air leak to me. If you weren't running ultra lean already, then I doubt it's jetting. You've got an air leak on the blown jug. I would suspect jetting more if you were running dual carbs.

Like this...

If we all pitched in and bought you one, would that be a conflict of your ethics? And maybe you could help us out some time

First vote is upper A arm where the flat part with the ball joint meets the tubing. second vote is the frame at the rear upper a arm mounting point. third is spindle. fourth is a combination of all of the above. My 95 had a bent A arm, spindle and after replacing all that the worst of it was the frame. They were all damaged and each replacement part helped out a little but the frame is still a little tweaked.

di-electric compound for all the wire boots and connections. It's basically non-hardening silicone. And spray silicone for everywhere else. I use spray silicone on everything. I spray it on my shocks to reduce the chance of rust and repel dirt and pretty much on everything.

If the kid is under 18, it will be illegal unless the parents are involved. Otherwise, I'd do it. You can get a decent used banshee for $3000 or less and have the rest to do the mods you really want.

Here's a pic...

Sounds good broke... IHRbearings@peoplepc.com

You'll know it's tight when your knuckles turn white.

At this point it would be hard to beat cory's offer. But that is a heck of a decent price for a good frame with no damage.

I'm looking for something alot more affordable than that. But thanks for lookin' out.

Maybe I could use one more if I start this banshee project. I was thinking I'd convert the Blaster to a trike for street but the engine was a goner and I just hate having anything to do with that piece of junk. But a banshee... I've already got the RZ engine, plastics, front componants etc. All I really need is the frame and a tank. So I was thinking I'd get an old frame and go from there. I'm basically looking for anything that's not completely twisted wreckage up front. If the rear rails are bad, that's OK and if it's a J frame, That's OK too. I'll just butcher up one of the swingarms I've got and go from there. Just so everyone knows, I asked for bent axles in the past for a "project" I was working on. It's just about done. It is a banshee flavored dual axle yard cart. Since the axles will never see any kind of speed and certainly no jumps, they are perfectly fine for this application. I should have taken pics of the one I got from NYUK. It was bent like a question mark, but I heated it up with the OL' Rosebud and pushed it back to the neighborhood of "straight". I would still never ride on a straightened axle.

I'd like to get a Banshee frame for a project. Any year will do. All I really need is the frame but if you have some front end stuff and a gas tank, I'll think about that too. I have some of my 2001 Blaster left and would like to trade that for the frame or I have some banshee stuff. EMAIL ME... IHRbearings@peoplepc.com if you have anything. DON'T PM ME! Thanks

I think I have all that stuff. Send me an email so I can get some pics out to you. IHRbearings@peoplepc.com DO NOT PM ME

Probably just put a burrito in the guys hand.

Yeah. We were thinking of something catchy for the mortgage biz. Something like... LOW RATE BLOWOUT or something like that

Thanks bro