Holyman

Send me a pic of those tires dude... IHRbearings@peoplepc.com we are getting closer. I need to know if they're 6 ply or 4 ply.

Dude... you never tell the general public that you are effectively shutting the business down for 1/2 of the year. You are killing your prospects for ever selling the business and you have just ruined the possibility for any more sales until well after your 6 month hiatus. You would be far better off having a responsible person manage the biz for you and pay you a commision and retain ownership than to broadcast to the world that you can't handle the biz and your orther obligations. You will not only lose the $25K you are hoping to get for a deposit but you will lose the whole works. What you should do is post what kind of infrastructure is needed to do this. Can it be done out of a 1 car garage with a 220V service or does it require a warehouse with a loading dock and 3 phase? How many sub-contractors do you use to complete a set of pipes? What is your raw material cost at a single time i.e. purchase of sheet steel is $xxx and it will make xxx amount of pipes, raw aluminum is $xxx and makes xxx amount of silencers. Assembly time is XX per piece and it takes xx time to fabricate a set of pipes from raw material. Electricity costs are appr xxx per month. Etc. I hate to see a reportedly good product go down the toilet when you and the guy who invented them worked hard to get it to go. There's enough crap out there that people buy up like it's going out of style there's no reason for these to flop just because you can't handle the demand. Otherwise approach Trinity or Toomey or Grand River or FMF or Paul Turner or someone who will give you some bucks and they can make them in their already fully functional shop.

I've got some from my 99 hardly ever ridden and will take trades. EMAIL me if you want pics... IHRbearings@peoplepc.com DO NOT PM ME!

I've got a complete RZ engine with very low miles for $850 plus shipping.

How much for the 2:1 filter and the thumb throttle?

No. I have not personally done the A arm conversion but I have looked at how it is done. Usually the existing J mount is used as an alignment for the new rear mount for the A arm and then the J mount is cut off. If you already know your mount is off, you will only transfer that to your new mount. Personally I would correct the J mount and then decide if I was going to do the conversion. I would just take a piece of heavy bar stock that's maybe 1.5x1.5 and put one end under the top shock mount and the other end just to the side of the lower A arm mount and use a c clamp and pull it back little by little until you get it straight again. It's going to take you 7 million tries to get it just right but when you get you've got it.

Sorry dude I ain't into that If you still have your old worn out bushings, you should be able to drill them out {maybe not have to} to .625" and get a couple long 5/8" bolts from the hardware store and run them thru the pivot point to make sure you have everything lined up as well as possible. That way all you have to do is set the bolt on some blocks on your workbench and put the two arms top to top and just eye 'em up. Or you could see if someone has an innner sleeve from an upper A arm and that would work with your brass bushings.

I would take off the J arms from both sides and put them upside and trace them on card board. See if they both have the same bend. If not, probably the frame.

How much for the bead locks and the V force?

That's an easy quick way to find out. There are about 12 billion pages on here about how to do and where to put it and even some that have been active in the last few days. But moving it will make it easier to keep an eye on and most of the time solves the problem.

It's normal if you have the bottle in the stock location and it's normal if you have the hoses hooked up to the wrong spot on the bottle. Move the bottle to just behind the bumper and make sure the hose from the radiator fill neck goes to the BOTTOM of the coolant bottle. You should never have to fill it again unless there's a real problem with your engine cooling.

I had gotten some of those in the past from my local Polaris dealer for about $10 each. I might have a couple still around. Send me the center to center spacing of the flange bolts and the OD of the carb spigot and I'll see if they'll fit.

Is the fabric stretchy and will it hold up to hosing it off? You should do shock covers too One more question... Does the needle on your temp gauge wiggle and can you read it as you're riding?

I'm pretty sure they're 3/4" because there are alot of guy who solder copper pipe fittings together for various reasons toput in the hose. Those fitting are 5/8" OD. Next size up is 3/4" which is about 7/8" od and that's too big I guess. So I figure it's about 3/4".

Every J frame I ever had was sloppy. Too bad you didn't convert before you PC'd everything. Since the J arm mounts to the frame in a different place than the A arm frame, a seemingly insignificant tweak in the rear brace of the J arm mount will result in a VERY significant movement in the end of the J-arm. to remedy this, you will need to do some creative clamping to pull the rear brace outward to move the end of the J arm forward. Unless you're saying that when you turn the tires seem to flop all the way to the side and you can't correct. In that case look at your steering stop and make sure your bottom stem bearing is tight. I would also check the swingarm pivot bearings, the swingarm tabs that the carrier mounts to and the carrier itself {the old style carriers are also weaker than the newer style}. A little bit off on any of these will translate into alot off over the length of the quad.

I can make one up for you with a stainless steel shaft whatever length you want.

Send me an email... IHRbearings@peoplepc.com and I'll get it in the mail tomorrow.

Early or late caliper? Send me an EMAIL... IHRbearings@peoplepc.com. I also have a rebuilt kicker.

early or late model?

Got a frame, electronics, bottom end, steering stem, tie rods and misc. Email me if you need anything like that... IHRbearings@peoplepc.com

I thought like this too. Buy him a quad take him riding get tickets to the freestyle show in Chicago etc. Turns out when chances to ride came along he didn't want to go and when I told him about the freestyle he said he'd rather go with his "friends" and listen to new age jazz. What kind of 14 year old prefers new age jazz to freestyle??? I'll leave that to your imagination. Needless to say when I offered the ticket to his "friends" the friends all wanted to go and leave his sorry butt home with the radio.

I'm surprised that Toomey would say something like that when it is blatantly wrong. The coolant is drawn back from the bottle when the engine cools. I'm not sure about the stabilizer thing though. The bottle can really be put almost anywhere. Just make sure you've got the hoses connected right.

I'm in Ill and I ride trails too. I run a Toomey 2:1 filter and never had a problem. As long as you run an outerwear and a foam filter, splashes and mud are not going to be a problem. If you think about it a clamp on filter has no real flat spots on it where water or mud can rest so it basically just runs off unless you have an exposed filter. And outerwear is necessary. If you are crossing rivers the airbox still isn't going to keep water out. There is a drain hose in the bottom which is almost always missing which not only allows water in but keeps it in there. It's like have a funnel attached to your carbs. Since an outerwear will not allow water thru unless it is sucked thru, the engine would have to be running and the carb would darn near need to be under water. I have taken the outerwear from my filter and ran it under the faucet. It will hold about 3/4 of an inch of water before running thru. So a splash ain't gonna go into the engine. Take into account the fact that the stock filter arrangement is iffy and you never can be sure it's in there right, plus the choke effect the stock box has on the engine, it just isn't worth running it. I took mine out and installed an ammo box under the seat. Now I have room for the cell phone, tow strap, plugs, wrenches, a few bucks, sandwich and a dry pair of socks in a waterproof container. That by itself is worth tossing the airbox. Plus I got $25 from some stooge that wanted an airbox really bad. I won all the way around.

Stack 'em up like firewood 'til you can find a match.

I'm amazed that people think that running an airbox is in any way beneficial... whether you ride thru water, mud, dust, snow whatever, the airbox is a liability that takes up space. Dump it and free yourself!!! Your banshee will love you.