TwistedSheeRida

lol thats a good one.

No its not supposed to and ive seen you have a few other posts. Assuming your carbs are clean and your jetting is right, do a compression test it sounds like you lost your top end. My blaster would do the same thing when my oil pump went first gear was fine after that was bog fest.

Thats sick i was just thinking about that the other day. 87sheerips just made up a bracket that goes out front relocates the coolant bottle and cdi right next to it. Cant remember the name of the thread.

haha thats awesome. It has road headlights, has twin chrome DF aftermarket Pipes.

Alright heres your problem. I believe your doing everything right and no matter what you do its not gonna work and heres why. where the master cylinder is pumping out the brake fluid pull that off and stick your finger over it and pump your brake and bleed that first. If the master cylinder is still good it should blow your finger off like nothing. I bet you take apart that master cylinder and one of the orings on the pump shaft is worn to the point of replacement. Just ordered that rebuild kit myself was doing the same exact thing.

Im not gonna call you an idiot cuz we've all been there before and im not gonna be a hypocrite. From my experience with the 5.0, as long as your atv is registered they dont give a damn. Cop told me personally that as long as its registered he doesnt care if im riding down the road as long as im not being a jackass period. If you can avoid running then do it. If your doing illegal activities on your wheeler drugs, speeding, drinking, etc. you shouldnt be anyways but hey stuff happens. hit the closest trail and stay put like you did. and if you have a buddy make sure your both down for whatev. Everything that ^ they said about the cops patrolling that area after is so true too they'll be on that spot like hawks for a while so if you do run dont go back for a bit.

Pull the spark plug caps and see if its corroded in there. Your main key switch wires might have pulled out a lil by the key switch. Open up your kill switch button and see if the little tab is touching fully on the killswitch. I bet its one of those if not then prob the tors like bbc said.

coalcountryriders.com prob has quite a bit of people willing to join

yeah i run amsoil 10w40 synthetic in the tranny. I dont care what people say about how cheap atf is and to run that instead. I spent 20 bucks on tranny oil last year and it still looked mint when i took it out.

Well i dont see a problem with it either. Quick question in Maine i dont have to have a title on my ATV and i dont have one period. If i want to go ride in PA this year, will i be able to register it there and ride or are they gonna give me a hard time.

you'll be all set. Ive bent one before just bend it back as good as you can and toss it back in. Any of the site sponsers can get you a needle, you prob have some little atv shops around you that can get them too.

if your just changing it 1.6 - 1.7 quarts. if your doing a rebuild 1.8 quarts. it has a dipstick and it says on the cover how much it takes just to let you know.

Nice footage. That cheetah has some balls.

that banshee and the one vs the raptor 700 both had a lean sputter in the top of the rpms did you hear it?

yeah there should be an intake gasket there i have 3 on each side for my reeds, boots, and spacers. All spacers do is make it really hard to put you carbs on with the airbox.

i think its a waste of time. just take the lid off.

I bought my bike with both covers already repaired. Stator cover had been plastic welded and the clutch cover had been jb welded or something. no probs with the patches.

Baker thats just about what i was gonna write Broke mine in last week also. Dont let it idle and dont lug the motor. First time you start it it doesnt even have to be long when the pipes get hot shut it off and let it cool. Second time go ahead and ride it 2nd gear or so just blip it up the rpms a lil bit not to the top and let it come down and keep doing that. Like Baker said, just keep letting it cool down check your head bolts. The more times you do it the better but after 5-6 times im giving the banshee a lil beating.

Just take off the lid dont bother with the timing plate its not necessary. I rarely get water or mud in my airbox.

Nope you never went 108 on your banshee. Who says you went 108 anyways?

im doing the rear end on mine first just to get rid of the crappy stock carrier. i bought a -1 lsr havent put it on yet but i expect to see some more traction and ive heard they go through the air better with a shorter swinger.

i play at my buddys house dont have an xbox yet but you can add MADfisherman41 to your friends list. Hes on all the time.

you just remove the lid get a proflow aluminum adapter and slap on a filter done.

Guy your high apparently and so isnt Ieat4strokes. I clearly stated a Stock Raptor 700 will run 5.7 5.8 in 300ft same goes for a Stock Banshee. Everyone knows the formula if you have a 125cc 2 stroke dirt bike you race with 250cc 4 stroke dirt bikes. 250cc 2 stroke races with 450 4 strokes. So a raptor 700 and a banshee 350 is about as close as its gonna get as far as comparison goes. Thanks for clarifying what Stock means einstein . And im gonna come back and say Ive also compared a banshee with just pipes and a filter to a raptor 700 with just pipes and a filter and the banshee one.

Well if your pulling the choke, the key, killswitch, and if you have a tether and are all in the on position and its not starting then your prob looking at a new top end. Go get yourself a compression tester and see where its at. Throttle wide open and kick it over till the tester stops going up. 3-5 kicks. what year is the banshee and do you know if has ever been torn down? even if the guy said it just had a new top end i never believe that.