AKheathen

oh, shit. guess you learned the hard way- no means no. if she doesn't wanna go, fix it. look for melting on the piston, ususally rounding out the exhaust side of the crown. check your intakes between the reeds and carbs for cracking. check to see if the ring(s) caught the port, and basically go through everything with a fine tooth comb. you have aftermarket exhaust, or air filter setup, or removed the lid and snorkel? that should have been jetted for. oh, and check to see if that little peice of vaccume line is hooked up between the 2 carbs. it goes from the backside of the choke strait across to a nipple where the choke would be on the other carb....

yes, basics.....such as spark plugs......what do they liik like, and have you tried replacing them? good blue spark?

i know you said that you removed the tors, but did you remove the brain box? it's a little black box to the left of the coil with 3 wire plug. unplug it.

what exactly are you lookin for? stock carb pods, stock filter, or whole airbox setup?

x2, i'm gettin the teflon ported pistons for my 4mill....

damn, you beat me to it, lol

well you have 2 options. you can have your stock stator rewound at a local electrical rebuild shop, and germany is pretty good with that stuff, but you will be limited by the stock cage, to running 2 55watt lights. or i have heard moose has been fairly reliable, and ricks stator; rm stator is coming out to be about the same as ricky stator.....junk. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOOSE-LIGHTING-STATOR-YAMAHA-BANSHEE-350-95-06_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad8165aa4QQitemZ390172400292QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

knowing ricky stator history, i would start there. you can ohm it out, which will reead dfferently than stock, but i would stich a voltage meter set on a/c from the yellow wire coming out of the stator, to the engine block. if you do get power, then check the power in and out of the light switch...... http://www.bansheehq.com/images/help_pages/electrical/banshwdc.jpg

haha, but 2legged goats are easier to grab a hold of.......

ass

before we jump to concusions......what is the elevation? does your tester match the length of the plugs on the threads? is the shrade valve in the tip? and, are you kicking with the throttle open, and untill the needle stops moving?

well, you know.......i opened this really hoping to see pics, lol. that aside, bolt them mothers on and rip. kinda wide on the exhaust, how did you shape the opening? you might even run into extra cost, since you did work on it and there is lees to work with, which means they have to work harder designing it all effectively.

is that yellow fuel line there? or just air hose?

x3, there's only a few, i think like 4 max degrees over stock, but the profiles are better. it's been posted a few times in here in the past few monts, actually. another thing- it's not suggested to upgrade the coil on the dyna, since it boosts the stock ignition energy already. i don't know how many do with good results and no problems in the real world, though....

m6x.75.........i almost gaurantee you will not find it outside of this aplication....just ask around, or call jeff for the tap. i have an exrta carb body laying around, but i can't remember what side it is, lol.

there is also a stutter function on it. can't remember what wire it uses, but here is what i put down in my notes, lol

man, you drive a hard bargain....ok, i'll go 12

you hash the axle? i have the pipe hangers, too....and the nut

i'll do 20 shipped for the pingle, but i don't wanna go any lower than that

dude, karac fell of the face of the bhq suddenly.....i think something happened...

no, that's not a stock needle. the stock one has 5 grooves and looks stainless with a pretty steep taper. the kit needles i had were longer, and had a more gradual taper, which means it will be leaner on top or richer on bottom. since you don't have stock ones, just compare the 2 different needles and figure where you need to richen or lean it in the throttle range by running one set in the middle, or 3rd from tip setting at first. i would try the shorter one first........oh, and i believe the stock is 5n something, if i remember right.

do yourself a huge favor and pick up a coolhead. you will loose a bit of power and have a harder time getting it tuned in otherwise. you will likely end up going 1 or 2 clips lean on the needles, but start in the middle. shoot for 165-180 cranking compression. the more cr, the less it will want to rev out, but you are mostly stock induction anyways. you can also have your head milled and chambered.

x2 on the t-5's. rockets mabey, if they will work with the 421....you can also change the sprocket over to run trails....

mine has a whack, too, but i still have the arrow just on there. it's about at the edge of where yours broke off, i think. mabey wrong, but i can't go look at it for a few weeks. just adjust the free play in the arm to 1/4 to 3/8 if you do adjust it. you will have to overcome the spring on the arm to feel it, but i don't think you can really release the clutch with your finger but it does tak some pressure to move the spring. you can do the free wheel and put it in gear, or you can warm it up, get it rolling and put it in gear with the clutch pulled. play with the clutch and put around, and rev it a few times with it in gear, clutch pulled. it should start letting go

well, you shoulda responded to that statement 4 days ago, otherwise i would tend to believe you agreed. i did read the whole thing before posting and that's what i got out of it. i tend to stay unbiased in the he said-she said, but what's up now derrik?