AKheathen

i, personally, would find a crank, then pick some nice pistons of your choice, unless there is a kit that comes with pistons you like. also, if you find different spacer options, then go with the head spacer, rather than the base plate, and you will get a better midrange to play with. so, i'm guessin you are in the 800 range and needing the bare minimum? well, that will be about enough to get it goin with 375+ for the crank, and less than 200 for pistons, then you will need the cylinders bored and/or honed for the pistons which is about 100 and i highly suggest not trying to go cheaper from going to a "local shop" that doesn't do the chamfer or match to the pistons. and then the gaskets/spacer. abricadabra, you have put together the "kit" more reliably, and can do the rest as the money comes. first thing, though, is have your cylinders spec'ed to see where you need to go with the pistons.

i keep hearing allot lately about "kits" what exactly does that mean? like bolt-and-go, or just pistons, crank and gaskets, but still need the machine work? i would only ever support the later

0so, does this mean we can buy parts from here, instead of being forced through ebay to buy anything?

well, every pipe will be loud as shit if you bypass the silencers and go stingger style, but may run like shit and cost power. all pipes are silenced in a way that imporves power everywhere below wot in the powerband. what you want is some high dollar drag pipes that exit around your feet either one side or both. you will gain heaps of peak power and and awesome ass sound, such as eminates from the drag strip, and the pipes aren't made to sacrifice a little peak for some lowend. you're gonna ride that thing ballz-out anyways.

yes, i was thinking the same thing....evcept, leave both full and just leave the radiator cap off too see where it's going. if the rad. drains, then remove the plugs and hold a paper towel up and see if coolant spits out while you kick it over. if you run it a bit with cooant in the oil, it will milk up, otherwise, you have to pull the plug and see if coolant comes out, as it will be at the bottom.

so, labor to work on the crank starts aroud 150 and up, i believe, just to pull it apart and put it back together........then parts and additional labor to get it as good or better than a new one. you ususally end up spending about as much as a new one. really, the only reason to be rebuilding a crank is to make one better rhan new, or if it is fairly new and able to be repaired with minimal parts

ok, this is what is, as of lately, a "red flag" sale post. due to your low stats. no offense to you personally, but i think anyone is going to need your full verified contact info and use paypal to make a perchase confidently. that being said, i am really interested in the bottom end and wire harness/cdi. i would like pics first, however, especially showing any chain damage where the stator cover screws in and what all is included. also, pics of the harness connectors. you can set this thread to e-mail you notifications of replies here, and of pm's sent to you, which is default settings, so i'm not seeing need to leave the site either. looking foeward to a smooth transaction. thank you -heath h.-

i would pull the rezivoir lines and make sure they are not backwards, or damaged. if it was cold and some bled down, then the only thing lower than the top of the bottle is the little lines themselfs, especially by the airbox where it can get burned by the exhaust, just like your harness can, and will, if you don't have it routed and secured right. it would be pretty hard to mix the coolant and case breather lines, because of length and location, but not impossible, or unheard of.....

there, we go...........i find it hard to believe that my laptop monitor shows more detail, but i guess so......i see no sign of bearing initiated damage there. what i do see, however, is a melted piston throught the exaust side, completely blowing the ring land out and circulating debris, and probably peices of ring through the chamber. i would check for blocked jets/passages, and glazing on the carb body where it seals to the intake. that is one area that a leak-down will not find, and i have experienced it showing up once the rubber warmmed up and was no longer cold and stiff. i always scuff the carbs before i install them to prevent it happening again. i also agree, that you should make sure everything is out of the crank area, and probably spec the bearings out, too.

did you have the radiator cap on when you let it cool? it is supposed to suck some back in as it cools down through the center valve in the cap. did you happen to test the cap, too with the tester? coolant condition/mixture? the seal isn't rotted? how you testing the temp? it would be good to see what temp it is when it spits out while you are ridding...you caould simply be overheating...

airleak?

well, y0our stock head will probably be the right size, but it's best to have them measured to know the exact cc's of the domes.

you have any stroker domes?

have you adjusted your airscrews yet? start with 1.5 turns from seated, and it should start and run with clean plugs. get it warmmed up and adjust untill it idles the highest, only make small ajustments, and give the engine 10-20n seconds to catch up. once it rewaches the highest, turn them in 1/8 turn and that should be about where you want to be. if they make no difference, then you need to change the pilot, or have another problem, such as an airleak or plugged passage

uh............check this thread out.... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=128761

what about the level in the radiator? when it's cool, remove the cap, (you have to remove the grill plastics to get to it) and start it up and watch what happens. it should be flowing and not spitting out a bunch. if there is a bunch of air in there, it could've pushed some out of the rezivoir when it heated up.......if it's spitting it out pretty soon, then you have a head gasket leaking, and if it's not flowing, then you have a water pump problem. you should be able to to top it off , close the cap, and fill the rezivior to the line, not completely full, and it will keep itself between the lines. old, fishy, or rotten p#$$y smelling coolant or wrong mixtures, will make it boil over, too.

did you sell the whole shebang? i need some pods for my lectron 30's

what filter setup youn have? and are you running lid/snorkel?

well, the steels do have tabs, lol, or they wouldn't work. the fibres lock into the basket with the outter tabs, and the steels lock into the inner hub, or visa-versa- i can't remember right now. most people just toss the coushin rings out anyways, so no, they are not needed.

just keep in mind, though- they will spec it out and you may end up spending as much as a new one, when all is said and done, lol

if you do happen to try the other output, don't rev it verry high, as it will likely fry the stock regulator before it get's near the powerband

yah, it should be a 100 and a 150. did you put a voltage gauge on it anywhere? check the bullet connectors and ohmt the ground to the timing plate and frame/harness. when the regulator goes out, it stops shunting the excess voltage and you get too much power for the bulbs to handle. also, put the meter on the other output. if you do happen to find an issue with the stator itself, i am able to repair it. another thing to check is the switch itself....really easy to pop open and clean the contacts. i used trucklite nyk compound on mine, main reason being that it was icing up last year. other than that, just go over all the connections and wiring and see if you can find anything.

well, i paid 100 for one with a bad pto bearing, and the rod got bent in shipping, and then 75 shipped for one with a bad rod bearing with maxload upgrade, and otherwise pretty new. i do need a rod pin from it, though.......

i still run it, but mix 50/50 with 90 oct. and 40:1 and it's plenty lubed, with no build-up at all. same plugs for a year and a half. i don't see why some think 100 LOW LEAD isn't that good. plenty of us run it constantly. besides that, it's regulated to much higher standards than any race fuel you can buy, since bad gas in a plane can lead to death, loll. i'm thinking about throwing the 18's in there and running it strait for a bit, and hope the crank holds up for a few rides, haha

where's the rest of the gearing?